Now that's an interesting method. If the hammer or chisel doesn't work, I'll try that.I just put a fabric tow strap on mine and pulled it with a pickup. Was gravy, went perfect. Smooth, controlled, and done.
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Now that's an interesting method. If the hammer or chisel doesn't work, I'll try that.I just put a fabric tow strap on mine and pulled it with a pickup. Was gravy, went perfect. Smooth, controlled, and done.
I’m just lazy. I prefer it over hammering and such, but each their own.Now that's an interesting method. If the hammer or chisel doesn't work, I'll try that.
I don't think I even have a strap long enough to try it at the moment. Now you've got me curious, so I'll have to go out and measure.I’m just lazy. I prefer it over hammering and such, but each their own.
Cable, chain, anything. Mine was a 30’ tow / recovery strap left over from Jeep 4 wheeling. But I would think you could even use a ratchet strap without the winder part, as long as it was the 2” wide variety or more.I don't think I even have a strap long enough to try it at the moment. Now you've got me curious, so I'll have to go out and measure.
I bought 12 from Erik's Military and Industrial Supply. Got the cotter pins off, Now struggling to get the old ends separated from the truck... arg... Athough, the Proto Tools offset 2 1/4" strike wrench is the bomb!If you replace your torque rod bushings, get the ones with the safety bar. They only cost a few dollars more than the bushings without the safety bar. You'll need a 2-1/4" wrench too.
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I bought 12 from Erik's Military and Industrial Supply. Got the cotter pins off, Now struggling to get the old ends separated from the truck... arg... Athough, the Proto Tools offset 2 1/4" strike wrench is the bomb!
Well Done Brutacus!!! You've made way more progress than I have. I'm still struggling (and I mean Struggling) to get the tapered rod ends to separate from the mounts. What method did you use to free the rod ends behind the spring pack? Funny thing is I was able to remove all 12 cotter pins without too much hassle. I've been soaking the rod ends with Kroil today - finally got a single lower rear to pop free using a combo of compression against a 3/8" angle plate and a homemade pickle fork from a 2 1/8" wrench end. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated....maybe my 4lb sledge hammer is just not up to the task...If you have any nuts that are stuck, an air hammer and chisel bit can take the place of a nut splitter. Doing this helped brake two of the stubborn ones loose. They are a little rusty after the rain, but you can see where I attacked them. The one on the right was particularly stubborn. You can see the damaged threads on the inside. I only stopped with air hammer when I watched the nuts move a little. After that, I used a wrench to take them off. Both of these nuts came from the front upper torque rod.View attachment 795456
Here is the finished results. You can see where my air hammer caught the frame on the right side above the nut.
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Looking underneath at the lower bushings, I see the next ones that need replacing. Since I bought two complete torque rods, I have two left over. I plan on just buying the bushings and pressing in new ones. I can't do them all at once.
Well Done Brutacus!!! You've made way more progress than I have. I'm still struggling (and I mean Struggling) to get the tapered rod ends to separate from the mounts. What method did you use to free the rod ends behind the spring pack? Funny thing is I was able to remove all 12 cotter pins without too much hassle. I've been soaking the rod ends with Kroil today - finally got a single lower rear to pop free using a combo of compression against a 3/8" angle plate and a homemade pickle fork from a 2 1/8" wrench end. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated....maybe my 4lb sledge hammer is just not up to the task...
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Try a couple of good solid whacks here, with the taper under tension.Well Done Brutacus!!! You've made way more progress than I have. I'm still struggling (and I mean Struggling) to get the tapered rod ends to separate from the mounts. What method did you use to free the rod ends behind the spring pack? Funny thing is I was able to remove all 12 cotter pins without too much hassle. I've been soaking the rod ends with Kroil today - finally got a single lower rear to pop free using a combo of compression against a 3/8" angle plate and a homemade pickle fork from a 2 1/8" wrench end. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated....maybe my 4lb sledge hammer is just not up to the task...
I used 2 1/2 inch flat washers from Fastenal ,they are 1/4 inch thick 5 inches outside diameter .At$5.00 each they are a lot cheaper than having someone cut them out . Lots of air/water and short welds if you go that route , easy to burn the bushings. used small slices of pipe to give more room for the dogbone to move.Ugh. Trying to do this job while the pandemic is on, will be a giant PITA.
I can order the dog bones online. I found an affordable striking wrench online, no problems there. I'll probably need to go to a store to find that angle iron and nuts to make the compression plate to pop the torque rod end out of the mounting. Not happy about that part.
For those of you who made retaining discs for your bushings- What is the diameter and thickness of the disc? Did you buy them or make them?
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