All that plumbing under the hood

[SturmTyger380]

Oh nice all and apart so it's easy to get to.

 

[klunk]

Oh nice all and apart so it's easy to get to.

things come off to get at other things and then you find the thing you took off needs attention as well and you wouldn't have known that if ya hadn't taken the first thing off in the first place...

...did that make any sense at all...?

 

[klunk]

So...with all the plugged hoses and clogged tranny heat exchanger I began to wonder what the motor coolant passages were like...

bad...really bad

I popped off the frost plugs (not as easy as the genius on youtube says it is)....each plug was completely clogged behind it...I used a spoon to scoop out handfuls of crud and scale (do not EVER leave an engine drained of coolant-I think this caused most of the issues)

then-off to the tractor shop to make an adapter for the pressure washer that allowed me to spray water sideways through the frost plug holes

I don't know if these trucks are prone to coolant passage issues but WOW...

 

[USMC 00-08]

If you come up with any part numbers from NAPA, Autozone, etc., with all the work you are doing, post them please and I will add them to the spreadsheet that several of us are working on.

 

[klunk]

ttranny thoughts...

how does one access the filter without the box/cab off?

is it worthwhile removing any any pans or covers to inspect/clean...?

Fluid...a brand suggestion for the hydraulic fluid?...or dextron?....or 10w engine oil (I know this is a conststant argument)

 

[SturmTyger380]

Check out this link: http://www.alfaheaven.com/MilitarySection/6x6 Trucks/HydramaticHvn.html

He talks about the - Hy-Tran which is the International Harvester hydraulic drive transmission oil. That is what I bought. But hey what can I say I have not got the tuck moving yet. Ha! Some folks have switched to Automatic Transmission oil but there are things you need to do to the transmission to do that.

I would look at the oil that comes out. Mine was really clean looking. There are two plugs near the front of the transmission. One of those is the water drain and the other is the oil drain. There is another oil drain plug near the reduciton unit on the bottom rear. You need to drain the Torus as well. To do that you have to bolt off the bottom cover of the flywheel and turn the Torus till you find the drain plug.

Alan

 

[klunk]

Thanks Alan!!...I wasn't aware of the extra drain plugs

As to the Alfaheaven link...

If your transmission has 1st, 2nd &amp

What is 'amp'?

 

[SturmTyger380]

Me either, I am thinking he meant 1st, 2nd and reverse.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Early Deuce Transmission Fluid Flavor

..........If your transmission has 1st, 2nd & reverse but will not shift into 3rd or acts like it is shifting into neutral, the 3-4 clutch pack is toast..............

Sturmy got me.....Must be a short-cut typo, similar to using "prolly" for "probably".

There is a strong opinion today that atf can result in premature cone wear.

SuperDave knows more about it but as I recall the boys did a trani re-build using atf and had to tear it apart again. They had damage to the cones.....in the pics below.

I haven't tried anything other then 10 or 30 weight non-detergent oil.

Tom was working on these trucks before I was born so he's a mentor, whether he knows it or not. Sounds like he could keep a trani working for a long time with the change in oil. It just gives you some options to work with.

Here is the filter schematic if you're still looking for it. Always good to see pics of the guts once you get it apart so post em' up.

 

[NDT]

"amp" after the & symbol is short for ampersand, for some reason if you use &, it (software) puts amp afterwards. This post will probably have it.

 

[klunk]

thanks gents,

Plowboy-handy pics of the manual (im so sick of 'thumbing' through pdf's)...I see the strainer filter is in the pan

but...is there another filter?...the top side of the tranny has a round plate with 4 bolts....I thought there was a filter under that

 

[m1010plowboy]

G-749 Instructions

I started printing pdf's and building a shop book but it's just easier having the manuals.

The selection in the photos mostly came from http://www.portrayal.com/

Search terms like "G-749 manuals" "M135 TM" "M211 TM" "M220 parts" "M135 parts" will net you different surprises every day. Sometimes even Kijiji or ebay pop up in the searches and guys just happen to release G749 items that day.

TM 9-8025-2 301MG and 303M covers all trani info......even shows the round housing that looks like it could hold a filter so it's easy to see why a guy would think that. I'm still on the learning curve but read that the round piece is the "reduction unit accumulator" and contains some mean looking springs. I have not had one apart so don't know the hazards involved

.....and this is when a mechanic chimes in to tell us about accumulators.....

It's part of the reason the troops at Steel Soldiers push the TM's so hard. Lots to learn man, lots to learn.

 

[klunk]

The selection in the photos mostly came from http://www.portrayal.com/

even shows the round housing that looks like it could hold a filter so it's easy to see why a guy would think that. I'm still on the learning curve but read that the round piece is the "reduction unit accumulator" and contains some mean looking springs. I have not had one apart so don't know the hazards involved

Thanks for the link!!...gonna order some of that goodness

I read somewhere here that there is a 700pd spring in the tranny that can go off like a gun...don't wanna play with that

got the oil pan off...fair bit of crud...strainer is pretty clogged...the cooler core is a bugger to remove.The castle nuts that retain it are peened so the nuts are tight all way

some of these pics require laying on the floor-dripping oil over yer head-and putting big chunks of goop and rust in your eyes and then holding your laptop up in the air

 

[klunk]

well....im trying to put up pics...

 

[m1010plowboy]

Well we appreciate you testing different size chunks in your eyes. The oily sheen of the guts in a hydromatic just make me grin. Thanks for the pics.

 

[klunk]

well ell well.....

when I drained the tranny oil it was strawberry milkshake brown...ok...no biggy

turns out the water 'chamber' that houses the tranny cooler was cracked...obviously a frost crack...this allowed water (that would be under pressure when hot) to dribble into the tranny sump side of the tranny oil pan

it was a tiny crack-nearly invisible-but I did a leak test that exposed it....beware!

 

[klunk]

View attachment 475438

the crack is located at the rear of this opening up high between the 2 big round holes

crack crack crackkkkk

I fixed it (I hope) with high temp silicone forced into the crack with 1 finger pressure....if that doesn't work the tranny will become air cooled

 

[m1010plowboy]

Good eye spotting that hairline. Another thing to add to the list during maintenance checks.

Should be lots of those pans around but maybe not if the trucks were put away wet. If you can't find one locally and decide on a swap I can ship you one.

Gives me some incentive to mothball the parts trucks a little better. I need to check some transmissions.

 

[klunk]

If you can't find one locally and decide on a swap I can ship you one.

Thankyou Sir, we shall see how my hillbilly fix holds.

So I went to the tractor store (in a raging snowstorm) and picked up 20l of oil that matches the IH Hy-Trans stuff Alan mentioned(specially formulated for older transmissions)

are there any tips for filling the tranny?....or just add and check add and check etc?...does anyone know the trans capacity (in litres, preferably )

 

[SturmTyger380]

If you have the maint manual on page 340 and 341 it says to add 12 quarts of the oil. Capacity is around 16 quarts. But needs to be topped up by running and checking the dip stick.

Alan