Alternator not charging

[alexv707]

I’m at a loss. I had no output from the 60 amp generator so I decided to swap it out with the 160 amp alternator kit. I also installed the ground wire kit, 2 new batteries and battery on off switch. Everything works but I still have no output from alternator. I get the same voltage at rear of alternator as I do at batteries with engine on or off. Alternator is 1 wire style. Wait to start light functions as it should and so does everything else in it. Does anyone know where the charge wire from alternator + terminal go to? I assume it’s not broken since I have power to it. Has anyone bypassed the factory charge wire from alternator direct to battery
Thanks for any suggestions you might have or areas to check.

 

[papakb]

Do you have +24v on the exciter wire? This is the small #2A lead switched by the start switch. Without it the alternator won't output. You didn't put in one of the defective keyswitches did you?

 

[Mogman]

He said it was a 1 wire alternator, do not connect a 160 amp alternator to the 60 amp charge wire, it goes through the EESS box and the relay cannot handle that much current, the 100 and 200A conversions have a single lead that goes directly from the charge output on the alt. to the batteries, it should be a much larger wire than the original 60A wire anyway.
In any case if you are not getting 28.5V or so at the charge terminal on the alt. while running there is a problem with the alternator.
One word of caution, most 1 wire alternators I have seen have large parasitic leakage, I suspect that is how they are "self exciting" not a good thing for vehicles that can sit for extended periods, been there done that on my farm equipment...
The 2A exciter lead is switched by the EESS box not the ign. switch, the ign. switch powers up the EESS box, if he is getting a good wait light and everything else works it is not likely the ign. switch, even if the exciter lead was needed.

 

[alexv707]

He said it was a 1 wire alternator, do not connect a 160 amp alternator to the 60 amp charge wire, it goes through the EESS box and the relay cannot handle that much current, the 100 and 200A conversions have a single lead that goes directly from the charge output on the alt. to the batteries, it should be a much larger wire than the original 60A wire anyway.
In any case if you are not getting 28.5V or so at the charge terminal on the alt. while running there is a problem with the alternator.
One word of caution, most 1 wire alternators I have seen have large parasitic leakage, I suspect that is how they are "self exciting" not a good thing for vehicles that can sit for extended periods, been there done that on my farm equipment...
The 2A exciter lead is switched by the EESS box not the ign. switch, the ign. switch powers up the EESS box, if he is getting a good wait light and everything else works it is not likely the ign. switch, even if the exciter lead was needed.

The place I purchased the kit from said not to use the 2A wire. Also made no mention of direct wire to batteries. I was going to try that but I wasn’t sure if it will bypass anything necessary for the truck to start and run. When I tested voltage at back of alternator it was the same as at batteries with truck running or not.

 

[Mogman]

I would go ahead and run a wire directly to the batteries, that connection would be on the front of the large shunt on the inside wall of the battery box.
1 wire alternators are "self excited" so in theory no wire at all should be needed to see output on the alternator (I would not try this as the alternator probably needs some load at all times) but as a stated before I have seen large parasitic leakage on 1 wire alternators, I suspect they are being "excited" with a small current all the time, so it might not self excite without the battery attached.
You have revved up the engine before testing yes? most 1 wire alternators will not excite (kick in) and start charging at idle but after they are excited they will charge at idle, the seller should have told you this.

 

[papakb]

HUH? The shunt is on the ground side (-) of the batteries. It's sole purpose is to provide current information to the STE/ICE connector. I would not run a wire from your alternator to the shunt. You can run your heavy wire 0 or 1 gauge to either the terminal post on the starter or directly to the battery terminal. Running to the starter terminal is much easier since you don't need to run wire thru sheet metal anywhere.

 

[Mogman]

HUH? The shunt is on the ground side (-) of the batteries. It's sole purpose is to provide current information to the STE/ICE connector. I would not run a wire from your alternator to the shunt. You can run your heavy wire 0 or 1 gauge to either the terminal post on the starter or directly to the battery terminal. Running to the starter terminal is much easier since you don't need to run wire thru sheet metal anywhere.

Yep my bad, you are correct, the shunt is on the ground side... The alt should be connected to the power stud, geez getting old sucks...