Another n00b

[kamikazee]

I bought a 1028 on Monday (pictured) after doing extensive research on this site. I love the truck, I really wanted a diesel and couldn't believe I could get one with so few miles for so cheap. I'm actually still a bit surprised. It'll work out as a great truck for work (NOT my daily driver) and to get through snowstorms.

Anyway, one of the reasons it was so cheap is because I bought a bit of a rust bucket. I'm planning on getting some 1/8" or 1/16" inch steel and pounding out a plate to put over the rusted holes, after grinding the rust out and coating with rustoleum. Has anyone ever done something similar to this and have any details to share? I did a quick search of the forum and didn't find anything.

Also I have a small leak coming from the fuel tank. Haven't dropped the tank yet, but plan on using the epoxy to patch the hole (assuming it is a small pinhole leak, which I suspect it is). Anyone have and especially good / bad stories associated with these patch kits?

My wife also insists I paint the truck from camo to another color. I'll go with flat black (will help hide all the dents). Anyone have any good luck with DIY paints? I'd rather not bring it to an auto body shop and don't have the capability for a gun myself.

Is there any way to tell if there is a gasket between the tranny pan and the body? I noticed the tech manual said to use a gasket if necessary, but I didn't notice where it said which ones have gaskets or not. Maybe I'm just blind.

If it wasn't already evident, this truck is for function, not style, so if something looks a bit odd but still works, I'm open to the suggestion. It already runs well so after a few normal maintenance tasks it'll run perfect.

 

[corelokt]

Before you patch it, clean it w/ a wire brush on a drill or grinder. Then recheck it for leaks. After you patch it, paint it w/ chassis saver. The roll of roof patch many here have used for sound deadening in the cab works good as padding between the straps and the tank. It also makes a good chip and salt spray guard.
Between transmission pan and transmission will be something. Gasket or RTV. I prefer a gasket with rtv on it. If doing a fluid change, a drain plug install is nice for the next one.
Check your front axle u-joints. Clean your 4x4 locking hubs. Clean all of your electric contacts and use di-electric grease on them. Check your light sockets and bulbs. Replace the headlight plugs if corroded. Good battery clamps and clean connections will save headaches later. Do the starter relay mod and read up on the glow plugs. Learn how to bleed the fuel system for changing filters or running out of fuel. Buy a test meter. Carry an 18mm wrench, (for bleeding the fuel system at the far front injector), a 10mm, a 3/8ths , a 5/16ths a 9/32's and a 1/4" socket. Several sizes of both type screwdrivers, a set of small torx sockets. A set of four sizes of adjustable wrenches and a roll of the silicone (miracle) repair tape that seems expensive until you need it. A package of JB Weld, a good penetrating oil. Some 2 stroke oil to add to your tank when filling up. Keep a spare fuel filter on hand. Learn to clean your PCV valve. Check your headlight fuse and the contacts in the fuse box for it. Consider useing relays to power your headlights. Read the faqs and stickies at the top of the forum.
Enjoy.

 

[forest522]

And that's just the beginning...that's how the OD green disease begins! Welcome and if your married buy your wife some flowers before you spend 5 to 8 hours on the weekends playing with your new toy

 

[wreckerman893]

Welcome to the Green Iron Laughing Accademy.

You can buy patch panels from several sources for the CUCV family of vehicles.

J.C. Whitney used to carry them.

 

[corelokt]

And that's just the beginning...that's how the OD green disease begins! Welcome and if your married buy your wife some flowers before you spend 5 to 8 hours on the weekends playing with your new toy

Very good advice there. Mix it up a little as the days go by and the years add up. It may not be a vehicle, but it is always something.

Panels, LMC, classictruckparts, anyone who has parts for 80's chevy trucks. On my 1009, for the cheap fix, I also bought plain panels and some bent flashing. A pop rivet gun and a big tub of grease to paint under the panels before I put them in. I'd go w/ chassis saver now, but it is not cheap. It also does not wash off your skin or clothes.

 

[jeepin]

LMCTruck.com is a good source for all body panels plus other hardware (windows cranks, door seals,etc.)

 

[AceHigh]

Someone on here worked on the line at GM, said these things were rusting even as they rolled toward the door back then.

 

[hunderliggur]

Desert tan is a good alternative to green camo, and it's cooler too! The flat CARC style paint is much more forgiving than gloss.

 

[kamikazee]

Before you patch it, clean it w/ a wire brush on a drill or grinder. Then recheck it for leaks. After you patch it, paint it w/ chassis saver. The roll of roof patch many here have used for sound deadening in the cab works good as padding between the straps and the tank. It also makes a good chip and salt spray guard.
Between transmission pan and transmission will be something. Gasket or RTV. I prefer a gasket with rtv on it. If doing a fluid change, a drain plug install is nice for the next one.
Check your front axle u-joints. Clean your 4x4 locking hubs. Clean all of your electric contacts and use di-electric grease on them. Check your light sockets and bulbs. Replace the headlight plugs if corroded. Good battery clamps and clean connections will save headaches later. Do the starter relay mod and read up on the glow plugs. Learn how to bleed the fuel system for changing filters or running out of fuel. Buy a test meter. Carry an 18mm wrench, (for bleeding the fuel system at the far front injector), a 10mm, a 3/8ths , a 5/16ths a 9/32's and a 1/4" socket. Several sizes of both type screwdrivers, a set of small torx sockets. A set of four sizes of adjustable wrenches and a roll of the silicone (miracle) repair tape that seems expensive until you need it. A package of JB Weld, a good penetrating oil. Some 2 stroke oil to add to your tank when filling up. Keep a spare fuel filter on hand. Learn to clean your PCV valve. Check your headlight fuse and the contacts in the fuse box for it. Consider useing relays to power your headlights. Read the faqs and stickies at the top of the forum.
Enjoy.

Good advice, thanks.

Bit confused with the tooling comment. I have all of these tools (need to get some specifically for the truck toolbox), but was under the impression everything on these trucks were metric. Is it a mixture of metric / standard?

Also, I understand the doghead mod, the stock relay sticks. Bit of overkill to go from 40 amp to 200 amp, but definitely a great idea to find one with a fail safe failure mode. That's top of the list for improvement items for me. I don't quite get why I would go to relays for the headlights, however.

I do have the LMC truck magazine (I own a 75 3/4 ton civvi chevy, selling it to pay for money to put into the cucv) and it is a great resource for these trucks.

 

[corelokt]

Interior bolt heads, hose clamps and suck are SAE. I just bought an el-cheapo set of sockets and tossed them in the tool box.