ARGH! FlexPlate Advice Please...

[FlameRed]

Folks,

My luck just seems to be going from bad to worse. I am working two different AC problems in different threads and now another horrible issue developed.

When starting the engine I heard a horrble grinding sound while cranking. I get under the truck and pull the Torque Converter cover, and low and behold I now see some teeth missing on flywheel! This is after I finished a TH400 to 4L80 a couple months ago. So I get to play again!

I am hopeful I can just disconnect the driveshafts and push the 4L80 back a few inches to get enough clearance to pull off the flywheel without dropping the tranny completely.

I have two questions.

• I see a wide range in pricing for new flywheels. As low as $70 up to $200. I assume the low end ones are cheap chinese crap. I think the part number is 2815011483771. Anyone have a recommendation for a source of a US made one? I don't want to end up paying for a $200 and end up with a cheap chinese one! Maybe a real GM generic part? Will a GM part number 14077157 work in a HMMWV? I see Rock Auto has a GM OEM one for $140 shipped.

• Regarding the starter. What is the recommendation? Replace, or take a chance and run the current one and risk tearing up a new flywheel?

Thanks in advance for your experience.

 

[MarkM]

Did you properly shim the starter when you installed the transmission? Are the two bolts on the starter in place along with the rear mount?

When you pull the tranny and pull the starter I would inspect it and bench test it. Misalignment is the main cause of flywheel teeth issues.

Mark

 

[FlameRed]

Did you properly shim the starter when you installed the transmission? Are the two bolts on the starter in place along with the rear mount?

When you pull the tranny and pull the starter I would inspect it and bench test it. Misalignment is the main cause of flywheel teeth issues.

Mark

No, I did not remove the starter or flywheel when I swapped the tranny. Starter bolts are solid. The starter looks like it was never disturbed, at least in the last decade!

It could be this started before I received the truck. I do recall hearing grinding briefly a couple times during the last year. I probably should have looked carefully at the teeth while I was installing the torque converter. It would have been easier

 

[FlameRed]

Looking at part's, I see the drive gear on the starter might be available as a seperate part? I would like to replace it with the new flywheel as a safety measure so they don't tear each other apart.

Looks like part number 12339360?



Anyone have the proecedure to replace the gear? It is something I can do or does it require me to take the starter and this part to a electrical shop?

 

[GuntherRommel]

We just did this to one of the trucks, its kind of a bitch if you have not done it. I took it apart and bought a new Bendix and wound up having a local auto electric/ starter shop reassemble it. They only charged $95 . good luck

 

[Valley Rock]

Okay so first off if you have an auto trans they use a flexplate, not a flywheel, get a genuine GM one and save yourself the headache of possibly buying some junk ones that are floating around even with big money reputable names on them .

Not sure which style starter you have now, but if you dont already have the newer gear reduction style I highly recommend it and they typically also fit better right off the bat .
(not sure what engine you have) ?

However, if your starter drive engages slowly or weak, your going to be right back where you are now eventually, this can be due to a low voltage situation from a defective battery, crummy battery cables or poor connection .

When u slide your trans back to change out the flexplate, make sure that converter stays back deep into the pump so you dont end up changing your trans too after you get it all back together, good luck .

 

[GuntherRommel]

Agree could be a bad ground, but we had a shattered Bendix

 

[Mogman]

Okay so first off if you have an auto trans they use a flexplate, not a flywheel, get a genuine GM one and save yourself the headache of possibly buying some junk ones that are floating around even with big money reputable names on them .

Not sure which style starter you have now, but if you dont already have the newer gear reduction style I highly recommend it and they typically also fit better right off the bat .
(not sure what engine you have) ?

However, if your starter drive engages slowly or weak, your going to be right back where you are now eventually, this can be due to a low voltage situation from a defective battery, crummy battery cables or poor connection .

When u slide your trans back to change out the flexplate, make sure that converter stays back deep into the pump so you dont end up changing your trans too after you get it all back together, good luck .

Where do you get a 24V gear reduction drive starter for the HMMWV?

 

[Milcommoguy]

Where do you get a 24V gear reduction drive starter for the HMMWV?

My first guess is Amazon.

Just a guess CAMO

 

[Valley Rock]

Where do you get a 24V gear reduction drive starter for the HMMWV?

You need a MT28 Delco, but here's the trick you can't just go buy one at the parts store, but you can use a cummins starter with a different front section, a Japanese company made the mt28 for Delco I am unsure of what they were for, they're rare but there out there, lucky for me I have a kick ass buddy here locally at an alternator starter rebuild shop and he can make me one, if I need one, but I don't cuz I dont have a 6.2 .
Almost sorry I brought this up because its kinda confusing and most likely not worth it, but, it can be done .

 

[jake20]

@FlameRed It’s a bit of a read but I also suggest reading my thread on this: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/humvee-starter-flexplate-teeth.210931/

I ran into enough stupid issues that I hope many can learn from lol

 

[FlameRed]

@FlameRed It’s a bit of a read but I also suggest reading my thread on this: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/humvee-starter-flexplate-teeth.210931/

I ran into enough stupid issues that I hope many can learn from lol

Thank you for that. I now will take my starter to a rebuild shop in town and have them test it and install a new gear. I am sure if I tried, I would get it apart, but not back together!

One other question. While I am in there, I may as well replace the flexplate bolts. I would use ARP normally. But anyone have a part number or size for the existing flexplate bolts on a M998 with 6.2 NA?

 

[jake20]

Thank you for that. I now will take my starter to a rebuild shop in town and have them test it and install a new gear. I am sure if I tried, I would get it apart, but not back together!

One other question. While I am in there, I may as well replace the flexplate bolts. I would use ARP normally. But anyone have a part number or size for the existing flexplate bolts on a M998 with 6.2 NA?

The 6.2 and 6.5 use the same flexplate and bolts I believe:

Flexplate: https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/FLYWHEEL-ENGINE-DIESEL_p_1025.html

Bolts: https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/BOLT-FLYWHEEL-DIESEL_p_1142.html

Give HPG a call if you want to be 100% sure but that’s what I was going to swap on my 6.5

 

[87cr250r]

The Rock Auto flex plates are made in Mexico and indistinguishable from OEM.

I recently bought a pad mount nose cone for a 28MT starter. They are available to purchase new jf you're converting from SAE mounting. It was $17 or something. I don't know if it was OEM.

 

[FlameRed]

The 6.2 and 6.5 use the same flexplate and bolts I believe:

Flexplate: https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/FLYWHEEL-ENGINE-DIESEL_p_1025.html

Bolts: https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/BOLT-FLYWHEEL-DIESEL_p_1142.html

Give HPG a call if you want to be 100% sure but that’s what I was going to swap on my 6.5

As usual - less that $2 for a set of bolts, and only $18 shipping!

 

[FlameRed]

You need a MT28 Delco, but here's the trick you can't just go buy one at the parts store, but you can use a cummins starter with a different front section, a Japanese company made the mt28 for Delco I am unsure of what they were for, they're rare but there out there, lucky for me I have a kick ass buddy here locally at an alternator starter rebuild shop and he can make me one, if I need one, but I don't cuz I dont have a 6.2 .
Almost sorry I brought this up because its kinda confusing and most likely not worth it, but, it can be done .

The HotRod guy like the gear reduction starters because they are:

• lighter, less weight = go faster
• smaller, easier to fit headers

I stumbled on to this. Wondering if the wires will reach? Do I use the same shim?

Wondering what you guys think?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/24V-Gear...516126?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1134

I see it on Amazon and Fleabay. Funny, says out of stock on their web site.

Might be lighter to reinstall

 

[jake20]

I stumbled on to this. Wondering what you guys think?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/24V-Gear...516126?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1134

I see it on Amazon and Fleabay. Funny, says out of stock on their web site.

Might be lighter to reinstall

Best bet for a starter I’ve found found is to get a reman original direct drive. New ones run for around $1300 last I saw, reman can be had for around $500 if you dig around.

I unfortunately can’t attest to the performance of those geared non direct starters, or how they mount. I’d love to hear how well it works but I have my doubts.

 

[Mogman]

I stumbled on to this. Wondering what you guys think?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/24V-Gear...516126?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1134

I see it on Amazon and Fleabay. Funny, says out of stock on their web site.

Might be lighter to reinstall

The 28MT is a med duty starter, much lighter duty than the OEM starter, the 28MT is only rated to 6.5L so a little light for my taste.
There are tons of them out there much cheaper

 

[87cr250r]

The OEM starter is just a Prestolite starter from GM pickup trucks of the time. It appears to be isolated ground and the 28MT is not which is likely why the switch was never made. If your engine block is grounded to negative battery with sufficient gauge wire for grounding you don't need the isolated ground starter. Medium duty is an upgrade in this case.

 

[Mogman]

The OEM starter is just a Prestolite starter from GM pickup trucks of the time. It appears to be isolated ground and the 28MT is not which is likely why the switch was never made. If your engine block is grounded to negative battery with sufficient gauge wire for grounding you don't need the isolated ground starter. Medium duty is an upgrade in this case.

Maybe on the CUCV but not a HMMWV, they are MUCH larger than the civy starter which is basically a Delco "HI TORQUE" same as used on big block gassers.
The OEM starter looks to be close to the 37MT

I think the 28MT would be fine as long as you do not abuse it, the only HMMWV I have with a Detroit starts within a single crankshaft revolution so the actual starter load is very small.
It is really a toss up, the OEM will take more abuse but the gear reduction should use less current.

The dang things are everywhere once you start looking for them, you would think there would be some feedback from actual users, surly someone has used them.