• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Artisan's M916

R

R Racing

Active member
2,767
16
38
Location
St. Leonard, MD
The 1 in my m925a1 is a 24v but being it's a dual volt system on the m915-m920 12v should put out about 14v (mine does) then use the equilizer for the 24v side.
 
Tornadogt

Tornadogt

Member
720
6
18
Location
Adkins, Texas
How would you wire the 2 Batteries? in Parallel? Then a setup up box for the 24V? how may amps could you get from the step-up box? If the step up box makes 60amps 24v it would draw 120-130 amps 12V right? I'm not sure that would work for the starter..
 
R

R Racing

Active member
2,767
16
38
Location
St. Leonard, MD
Look at the pictures I posted you will see a few wire connections . I'll add the schematic in a day or 2 it's a easy wire up. Mine has 100 amps of 12v and 100 amps of 24v with 2 120 amp auto rest brakers. I'll add some more pictures than as well.
 
Artisan

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Dim Headlight Repair

One headlight was dim, replaced it and still dim. I pulled
the lights and cans and under it all are some electrical
terminal strips and on either end there are grounds that
need to ground to the body. I had rust so disassemble and a quick squirt
w/ the handheld glass bead blaster and the rust disappeared
on the body, and the krap on the eyelets was blasted away as well.

The OE hardware was not proper. I used a 1/4-20 Serrated Flanged
head X 1" long bolt thru the plastic terminal strip then a SS AN
washer, then the eyelet, then an internal/external combo star washer
and on the backside, a washer and nyloc nut torqued to tight, not a 1/4 past stripped,
or in this case, a 1/4 past crushing the terminal strip.

All was dielectric greased upon assembly.

Now my dim light is SOP / brighter. I guess I need to pull all grounds and maybe add
some grounds like I did on my M925A1.

headlight-grounds.jpg
 
Artisan

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Matt is it possible your TR is there but not connected?
Maybe trace wires from the Equalizer?
Here is what my TR looks like hooked up.



A001090555-wiring.jpg
 
R

R Racing

Active member
2,767
16
38
Location
St. Leonard, MD
Artisan said:
One headlight was dim, replaced it and still dim. I pulled
the lights and cans and under it all are some electrical
terminal strips and on either end there are grounds that
need to ground to the body. I had rust so disassemble and a quick squirt
w/ the handheld glass bead blaster and the rust disappeared
on the body, and the krap on the eyelets was blasted away as well.

The OE hardware was not proper. I used a 1/4-20 Serrated Flanged
head X 1" long bolt thru the plastic terminal strip then a SS AN
washer, then the eyelet, then an internal/external combo star washer
and on the backside, a washer and nyloc nut torqued to tight, not a 1/4 past stripped,
or in this case, a 1/4 past crushing the terminal strip.

All was dielectric greased upon assembly.

Now my dim light is SOP / brighter. I guess I need to pull all grounds and maybe add
some grounds like I did on my M925A1.

View attachment 506055
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity was it the passenger side headlight ??
 
Artisan

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Just for chets and giggles, past a dual ALT system was briefly talked
about. If the 12V horn was moved there is room for a 2nd ALT in
that hole I thunk. A guy could make a platform utilizing those 2- 3/4" +/-
frame bolts w/o much hassle.

Then add an ALT facing backwards
(so a clockwise or bi-rotational would be needed) then replace the 2
groove pulley on the OE ALT w/ a 3 groove pulley. The belt
would be a shortie but I think this is doable, I love making
stuff like that, I could do it in CAD and make it reproducible
is it were a good alternative.

So add a 24V 30Amp Alt just for the A/C through a voltage regulator?
Ha! I am guessing now.

zccje1222fsm.jpgzrd.com

245501d.jpg
 
Tornadogt

Tornadogt

Member
720
6
18
Location
Adkins, Texas
This is some PM's between R Racing and Myself.. We wanted to share this info.

Please correct me if I am understanding the Voltage conversions incorrectly...


It was explained to me that the 100 amp equalizer will put out close to 100 amps on the 12v if supplied by 200 amps of 24v which my alternator does. That's why it is rated for 100 amps since you are supplying more than that by the alternator of 1 voltage it will create the other meaning 12v. My alternator is now a single voltage 24v setup ( it was tweeked by the electric shop that worked on it a pretty they will produce up to 32v). If I fed it with a 300 amp alternator it would still only supply 100 amps of 12v and the other 200 amps would be there at 24v.

Thank you
Jim[/QUOTE] (R Racing)


That all sounds correct how I understand it, except that the Equalizer should only use 50amps 24v to create the 100 amps 12v (halve the voltage double the amps.)

I Believe it depends what they do in the Alternator shop to too swap the power output form 12v to 24v to 32v If they are just adjusting the internal circuits to produce more voltage which in turns lowers the output amperage... In order to increase both voltage and amperage they have to change the stater and or rotor.

So without changing the major internal parts someone could make one alternator produce any ONE of the following:
12V 200 amps
24V 100 amps
32V 66.5 amps
all are the same amount of power just in different forms..

Like you said it doesn't matter if you have a 200 amp 24V or 300 amp 24V alternator The Equalizer will only draw as much power as it needs to produce 100 amps 12V. I am just under the impression that the equalizer will only draw 50 amps 24V (really 50-55 amps 24V at 96-98% efficiency) under MAX 100 amp 12V LOAD.. If you are not using 100 amps 12V LOAD and only using say 50 amps 12v LOAD it will draw less amps from the 24V side also (only 25-30 amps 24V), it only uses what is need for the load at any given time..

But either way it works out to be plenty of extra power for what we need on both the 24 and 12 sides..

With my math and understanding we really only need a 100-120 amp 24V Alternator to power this system with plenty for extra later..

I am still learning, but the biggest thing here is the fact that at 100% efficiency to convert power back and forward from 12 to 24 Volts and 24 to 12 Volts the amps double and split as voltage doubles and splits.. Example: 12V 100 amps (is the same amount of "Power" or could be said is equal to=) 24V at 50 amps just in a different form..

I am going to post this in the form just to share and see if someone can confirm or set me straight on the way I understand it..

Thanks
John (TornadoGT)
 
Artisan

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
12V Side Ammeter Reading

FWIW

I have a new DC Ammeter.

I put it around the red + wire that goes into the harness and connects to the ALT, at the ALT.

I got a reading of about 44.8Amps with the following on;

High Beams
High Heater Fan
1- Dash Fan
Hazards
Rear Work Lights

A001090555-with-5114TB-2.jpg
 
Artisan

Artisan

Well-known member
2,761
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
R Racing has a 12V ALT right?

R Racing has a #52210 Sure Power Equalizer right?
It says on the label, 24/12V output Current 100Amps MAX right?

Now CLICK HERE and get the directions for the 52210 unit.

Now look at the diagrams, BOTH diagrams show a 24VOLT ALTERNATOR!

Jim did you guy turn your ALT into a 24V unit and left the 12V label on it?
Whats going on here? I am very confused, but what's new...............




Also regarding the last post, #132 Tornado posted up about does this help?

Scroll to page 2, #8 says;

8. The Equalizer can be used as a Converter. See figure 2.
Please note that the output voltage of an Equalizer is half of the input voltage.


My brain hurts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,644members
165,164threads
2,323,983posts
1,396online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks