Artisan's M916

[Castle Bravo]

I think I will end up doing something like this -



I think a 24v 100A alternator would power the truck with this setup, but I suspect that it would be better to get something in the 125A to 150A range. 200A works too, of course.

I think the 12v load could be cut by a third or maybe even half if the truck has mostly LED lights.

The slave cable 24v could be moved to the other side of the battery disconnect if desired.

 

[R Racing]

That drawing is pretty much my setup.

 

[Artisan]

Tornadogt found a inexpensive 24v alternator on e bay that was 200 amp for around $275.00

Nope.

That is for a 12V ALT and they word it tricky. (good advertising ALWAYS pisses someone off)

When you write them after reading the fine print you are sent to a page where
you get hosed. Here, get the lube and click HERE.

 

[Artisan]

There is a guy on Ebay selling USED 52210 Battery Equilizers ( BE )
I guess he has a bunch of them for $200 EA.

He is willing to lower the price "IF" there were a group buy.
(Some of you know I have been doing group buy ins for GL items, I can do this if it looks good )

Here is what I learned about the 52210 BE

This gentleman replied to me, he is a lil keyboard challenged. Feel free
to interpret for me if you know what "pil" and "ws" is?

"yea we could work something
out like that. I only know how to check them on the vehicle. with it running
check each bank of battery's and they are to be with in 0.1 volts any more and
we would replace them. all was checked when that was taken off. The was taken
off for a recall. In the last 14 years of running the me had 2 problems. The ws
recalled cause if they are installed in a hi heat area with a lot of dirt and
pil the insulator can become conductive. The 2 that we had problems with was
ones that was mounted under the bus buy the exhaust by the motor. WE have 150
buses that have them mounted that way . the other 600 buss's have no problem. "

So what is the insulator? The main body ?


I am skeptical on buying 12 year old BE's .

www.surepower.com is CLOSED Coopermann?

How much are the 52210 BE's new?
I need help.


American Power; getting prices for the Up Dc Convertors is challenging, anyone else checked this?
I need help.

www.surepower.com is CLOSED Coopermann?

 

[R Racing]

Yes it's the outside housing is a heat sink. He could also be talking about the 3 wire mounts . If they were covered in mud it could short to the housing. The heat sink should be near air flow and be kept fairly clean to disapate the heat.they seem to be a tuff unit so far.

 

[Artisan]

Trying to reinvent the wheel, once again, is proving challenging, for me. I wish I was
made of money, I would have been done by now. Trying to save a buck sucks.

This requires a full blown career vehicle electrical systems engineer.
I hate electricity! I am getting burnt out on this.

Here is what I need drawn, I am to stupid to do it.

(Matt I think I noticed that your schematic you drew is missing, I think, Fuses or Circuit Breakers)

View attachment 506406

If anyone is waiting for me to pull the trigger and do something to see
how it goes for me, well, that ain't gonna happen. I have tried
to figure this out and I have failed. Ineed help. I have posted up
as many facts as I can in hopes someone else can resolve, w/o
breaking the bank. I don't think it is possible.

Pisses me off to no end, I read the silly instructions on these RD A/C units BEFORE I bought them
and it said it fit my truck and it said NOTHING about the Electrical systems needing upgrading
as well.

I have proven beyond a doubt, it IS NEEDED and there is a full blown upgrade kit w/ an NSN number even.
There are NO KITS IN EXISTENANCE. None, nowhere, zero, zilch, zip. All's a guy can do is piece meal
the "kit" together and it will cost about $2500.00 to do it if I have to pay shipping twice.


To do this w/ a larger 24V ALT and BE;

A LARGE 24V ALT Needs to be found and priced (it will be almost $1000)
A Properly sized BE needs to be found and priced ( it will be $650 )

...or roll the dice w/ Ebay stuff w/ no warranty. I need a rock solid last for 100,000 miles far from home resolve.

As of today this thread has 3422 views. There are maybe less than 10 core guys inputting input.

I can only hope a qualified electrical engineer can make quality suggestions.

 

[R Racing]

Well like I had Said earlier on if I had it to do again I'd buy a aftermarket ac unit. Lol with paying $100.00 for my alternator and having it reworked. And buying the equilizer and 2 overloads . I was close to the $900.00 mark. And then there was what I paid for the ac kit. For the same or less I could have had a 12V ac that I can set at 70 degrees and be comfortable and wouldn't have cooked my transformer. Lol your milage may vary !!

 

[NDT]

I gave my opinion on post 114. What I plan to do: Upconverter 12V to 24V, Red Dot load only, stock alt with stock T-R doing it's usual thing. LED headlights shaving off 14 amps or so. The rest of what is being discussed it too complicated for this ol' boy.

 

[R Racing]

This whole thing reminds me of the chicken and the pig lol. When making bacon and eggs the chicken is involved. The pig is committed. In other words in my case. Once I went to all the trouble of putting the ac on and making sure everything was wired ,and hoses were connected. I was committed to finish it weather I wanted to or not. there was no turning back and eventually figured it out and learned a few things on the way. So there may be some cheap fix . But I haven't found it myself yet. Although I have a 24v aftermarket alternator on my m925a1. I could be wrong but thought it was 160 amp 24 v it's a SI I believe. The guy I got my truck from had installed it. He referred to it as a cheap replacement for the factory unit. Anyone have the skinny on them?

 

[Tornadogt]

Nope.

That is for a 12V ALT and they word it tricky. (good advertising ALWAYS pisses someone off)

When you write them after reading the fine print you are sent to a page where
you get hosed. Here, get the lube and click HERE.

But I did contact them and they make it in 24V. It is half the amp rating when it is 24V which makes perfect sense as I was saying in the earlier post.

So they make a
24V 100 amp S21 style alternator for $305.00
24V 120 amp S21 style alternator for $390.00

Another options is the older style alternator Leece Neville 2500 - 2800 Series style Alternator (same as R Racing has on his truck)
24V 100 amp Leece Neville alternator for $280.00

all of these come without pulleys but are available added for 25.00 (2 groove V-belt or 8-Rib Serp.)
All include Free shipping...

 

[R Racing]

But I did contact them and they make it in 24V. It is half the amp rating when it is 24V which makes perfect sense as I was saying in the earlier post.

So they make a
24V 100 amp S21 style alternator for $305.00
24V 120 amp S21 style alternator for $390.00

Another options is the older style alternator Leece Neville 2500 - 2800 Series style Alternator (same as R Racing has on his truck)
24V 100 amp Leece Neville alternator for $280.00

all of these come without pulleys but are available added for 25.00 (2 groove V-belt or 8-Rib Serp.)
All include Free shipping...

Sounds like a good solution to me !!! Thanks for your efforts !!

 

[Artisan]

But I did contact them and they make it in 24V. It is half the amp rating when it is 24V which makes perfect sense as I was saying in the earlier post.

So they make a
24V 100 amp S21 style alternator for $305.00
24V 120 amp S21 style alternator for $390.00

Another options is the older style alternator Leece Neville 2500 - 2800 Series style Alternator (same as R Racing has on his truck)
24V 100 amp Leece Neville alternator for $280.00

all of these come without pulleys but are available added for 25.00 (2 groove V-belt or 8-Rib Serp.)
All include Free shipping...

Then all's I can do is punt because when they wrote me back they
sent me to the link I give in post #143 . Click on that link and look
at the pricing, I am probably wrong, it needs to be investigated.
I am too frazzled to deal w/ that now.

 

[Artisan]

I finally got the Compressor 90's that AP=AIR sent and was a total POS. JUNK, threads cut buy
some guy in a bamboo leantwo using Panda teeth to cut the threads.

How may days ago did I originally order that stuff? No ones cares anymore, it is absolutely sickening.

The compressor 90's do a great job of routing the hoses away from
the engine and eliminating the HUGE possibility of bending things
the way it was. The hoses go straight down now. P/N's are in a past
post herein if you want them

 

[Artisan]

Now I am all dressed up w/ no where to go...............

Anyone got an APU ?

 

[Artisan]

I FOUND IT ON ANOTHER PAGE !

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=159

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=97

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=98

I thought we were talking about the 250Amp unit though.

250 \ 2 = 125Amps left if your pulling 50Amps on the 24V side
120 \ 2 = 60Amps left if your pulling 50Amps on the 24V side
100 \ 2 = 50Amps left if your pulling 50Amps on the 24V side


Like I said yesterday, w/ just core 12V running I was pulling, what did I say, 44.8Amps?

So if you want extra Amps for add on's were still talking the $1000 14V unit right?

 

[Tornadogt]

I do not see it as a deal breaker.... Cheapest and still plenty of reserve would be

24V 100 amp Leece Neville alternator for $280.00 Shipped to the door... and use your pulley from you original alternator (I would just get a new one for 25.00 bucks but that's me)

Sure Power Battery Equalizer PN: 55156-21100E00
This will provide up to 100amps 12V if needed... $200.00 from E-bay..

2) 120 amp Breakers from Waytek: COOPER BUSSMANN 181120F-01-1 $21.25 each plus shipping

That is $547.50 (with the pulley) not including shipping on the breakers (under $10.00 bucks my guess) for a complete updated duel voltage charging system.
Not to bad in my book??

 

[Tornadogt]

I understand it that a 24V 100 amp alternator is more than enough and the 120 amp option would just be a bonus..

Really that is all that R Racing has is 24v 100amps (was 200aps at 12V like the sticker on his alternator says, then was reworked and turned up to 24V and now makes 100 amps)


This system would let you run a max of 100 amps on the 12V side.

But dependent on the 12V load it will vary the amount of 24V left to be used by 24V items..
Example:
12V load of 100 amps would leave 50 amps 24V available to be used.
or
12V load of 50 amps would leave 75 amps 24V available to be used.
or
12V load of 25 amps would leave 87.5 amps 24V available to be used.

The only limit to the 12V side is the Equalizer is only made to produce a max of 100amps 12V if need (12V Load)

Remember the OEM Alternator only make 85 amps 12V then looses 30 of those amps to produce the 15 amps 24V through the rectifier on the back of the Alternator..

So all you have now is 55 amps 12V and 15 amps 24 on the factory system.. No wonder we have problems..

(again I could be wrong on the math but am pretty confident on this)

 

[Artisan]

I gave my opinion on post 114. What I plan to do: Upconverter 12V to 24V, Red Dot load only, stock alt with stock T-R doing it's usual thing. LED headlights shaving off 14 amps or so. The rest of what is being discussed it too complicated for this ol' boy.

NDT your opinion is super valuable to me.
Have you nailed down what DC Up Convertor your going to use and how much is it?
Are you going to keep the OE ALT and TR in place?

WAIT, if we send our OE ALT's to get the stator bumped up to 160Amps for $80.00 plus
ride providing our ALTS do not have any other issues this might work.

If you do the math the 85AMP OE Alt is not big enough.

 

[Artisan]

I understand it that a 24V 100 amp alternator is more than enough and the 120 amp option would just be a bonus..

Really that is all that R Racing has is 24v 100amps (was 200aps at 12V like the sticker on his alternator says, then was reworked and turned up to 24V and now makes 100 amps)


This system would let you run a max of 100 amps on the 12V side.

But dependent on the 12V load it will vary the amount of 24V left to be used by 24V items..
Example:
12V load of 100 amps would leave 50 amps 24V available to be used.
or
12V load of 50 amps would leave 75 amps 24V available to be used.
or
12V load of 25 amps would leave 87.5 amps 24V available to be used.

The only limit to the 12V side is the Equalizer is only made to produce a max of 100amps 12V if need (12V Load)

Remember the OEM Alternator only make 85 amps 12V then looses 30 of those amps to produce the 15 amps 24V through the rectifier on the back of the Alternator..

So all you have now is 55 amps 12V and 15 amps 24 on the factory system.. No wonder we have problems..

(again I could be wrong on the math but am pretty confident on this)

Don't forget that any trailer lights pull off the 24V side too !
How many amps will a normal trailer pull? THAT has to be considered
if NDT's solution is used. So a 30AMP DCUPCON is not big enough.

How many amps will a normal trailer pull?

 

[Tornadogt]

24V 10-15V max
12V 20-30V max Given the same lights 12V will pull double the amps.

those are high numbers with the brake lights on