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Behr Paint Jobs- Show me your MV's

Another Ahab

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San Angelo (TX) - Central High School's ROTC Building (a former National Guard Armory, has one of these up on a pedestal as their "Gate Guard". She's been there for a while and could use a good buffing. But she's still "purty" too look at when driving by there.
Super Moderators GOT to know they need to post a pic with any post like this...PLEASE!

PS Hope you all in San Angelo are safe, sound, and secure during this Crisis. Cheers, and Keep Your Distance, Friend!
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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Super Moderators GOT to know they need to post a pic with any post like this...PLEASE!

PS Hope you all in San Angelo are safe, sound, and secure during this Crisis. Cheers, and Keep Your Distance, Friend!
I'm on it!

These pics are from 2003 when her paint was fresh.... and cellphone cameras had horrible resolution. LOL

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HQ0.JPG

I'll try to find some more recent pics I may have archived.

And, the next time I "go over the wall" and flee this sheltering place I'll grab some current photos as well.
 

PareoWC

Member
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Location
Upstate SC
Gents- I'm working on a 43 WC52 cab. I bought the Behr Marquis in satin, ensured the cab was as grease free as possible, and shot just one light coat over Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. The Behr was shot un-thinned with a Graco sprayer, and left for 4 months to dry.

This is my first time shooting 'house' paint vs. enamel, so I'm still learning, and would like some reassurance.20191225_125808.jpg

The paint has adhered well, but it is not as tough as the enamel. If I drag my nail over enamel, it leaves a mark. If I drag my nail over the Behr hard enough, it will peel the paint away. Almost like it's still flexible? I wonder if it's because I only have one thin coat on it? Am I wrong to think that latex is as hard as enamel?
 

Slate

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Gents- I'm working on a 43 WC52 cab. I bought the Behr Marquis in satin, ensured the cab was as grease free as possible, and shot just one light coat over Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. The Behr was shot un-thinned with a Graco sprayer, and left for 4 months to dry.

This is my first time shooting 'house' paint vs. enamel, so I'm still learning, and would like some reassurance.View attachment 798362

The paint has adhered well, but it is not as tough as the enamel. If I drag my nail over enamel, it leaves a mark. If I drag my nail over the Behr hard enough, it will peel the paint away. Almost like it's still flexible? I wonder if it's because I only have one thin coat on it? Am I wrong to think that latex is as hard as enamel?
On the can it says 30 days to fully cure. Dries to the touch in 1-2 hours depending on humidity and temp. Mine are doing well so far. Army Green truck is about a year. And alien green one is about 12 days. Sometimes the latex won't stick to the enamel wery well I've noticed. But it sticks to old carc like glue.IMG_20200430_153750475.jpg

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

Another Ahab

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Location
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This is my first time shooting 'house' paint vs. enamel, so I'm still learning, and would like some reassurance. I wonder if it's because I only have one thin coat on it? Am I wrong to think that latex is as hard as enamel?
A lot of the paint companies have contact numbers to call for any questions you have about their paints.

There is solid good expertise here for sure, but you might consider a call to the manufacturer to shoot off some questions that they are gld to answer.

Just a thought.
 

fuzzytoaster

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On the can it says 30 days to fully cure. Dries to the touch in 1-2 hours depending on humidity and temp. Mine are doing well so far. Army Green truck is about a year. And alien green one is about 12 days. Sometimes the latex won't stick to the enamel wery well I've noticed. But it sticks to old carc like glue.View attachment 798364

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
Ditto. I let mine sit for a week without touching it if I can. Off Behr's website it says:

"...allow 12-16 hours of dry time between coats. Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may prolong drying time. After 4 weeks, cured paint film may be cleaned with a mild, non-abrasive liquid detergent. "
 

SETOYOTA

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Can only speak from my experience . I have sprayed the behr over rustoleum primer and behr stuck like glue hard as a rock.
 

PareoWC

Member
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8
Location
Upstate SC
I have sprayed the behr over rustoleum primer and behr stuck like glue hard as a rock.
1. How many coats did you spray to achieve this?
2. Is it safe to assume that you cannot lift the paint off the primer with your fingernail?
 

SETOYOTA

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You can not lift the paint with your nail. It will have a dusty scratch that removes by brushing with your hand, the same as CARC.
my hood was sandblasted to bare metal then shot with the rustoleum rusty metal primer. it was probably 2 months maybe before I sprayed the Behr over it. I used a harbor freight purple gun with the nozzle drilled out to 2mm. No thinning of the paint but put some flotrol in it to help it smooth out. I think it was 2 coats but the second one was much lighter .

the frame was wire brushed only. No issues on any of the pieces.
 

Attachments

PareoWC

Member
34
2
8
Location
Upstate SC
You can not lift the paint with your nail. It will have a dusty scratch that removes by brushing with your hand, the same as CARC.
my hood was sandblasted to bare metal then shot with the rustoleum rusty metal primer. it was probably 2 months maybe before I sprayed the Behr over it. I used a harbor freight purple gun with the nozzle drilled out to 2mm. No thinning of the paint but put some flotrol in it to help it smooth out. I think it was 2 coats but the second one was much lighter .

the frame was wire brushed only. No issues on any of the pieces.
OK- thanks. I may be overthinking the application. It is pretty tough, and the first coat was light. I sprayed it, and let it sit in a controlled environment shop for 4 months before I saw it again. One issue is that I initially got the paint in Satin. I have now returned to HD, got a batch in Flat, and now we'll spray a good coat on it again.

What are the thoughts on running a scotchbrite pad over that initial coat to help adhere this fresh coat?
 

SETOYOTA

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I don’t know about the scotch bright. It’s not something I would have done. I not a pro though. Just a guy with some army trucks and some harbor freight spray guns.
 

Slate

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To go from Satin to flat I would rough it up somehow, for a second coat.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

PareoWC

Member
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2
8
Location
Upstate SC
May not be the paint's fault, but I'm not happy with the outcome of the cab on the WC52. I'm sure it's my fault and goofed somewhere, even though I have overthought this project from the start. The one detail that I'm seeing is that the painted parts that are still not hardening are those that I put a base of semi-gloss Behr Marquee on first. Even after scuffing that paint, then re-applying flat Behr, the paint can be lifted with my fingernail.

2 days ago, HD was out of the Marquee, so I bought the Ultra in the same shade. The paint laid on great, and hardened in 24 hours!

The cab has been 'drying' for over 2 weeks, and it is still somewhat sticky to the touch- so perhaps another 2 weeks to see if it will harden up? My plan after that is to pull it, remove all paint, then re-shoot with the flat Ultra. Not sure where I went wrong, though...

 
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01GRANDER

Active member
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28
Location
Alabama
May not be the paint's fault, but I'm not happy with the outcome of the cab on the WC52. I'm sure it's my fault and goofed somewhere, even though I have overthought this project from the start. The one detail that I'm seeing is that the painted parts that are still not hardening are those that I put a base of semi-gloss Behr Marquee on first. Even after scuffing that paint, then re-applying flat Behr, the paint can be lifted with my fingernail.

2 days ago, HD was out of the Marquee, so I bought the Ultra in the same shade. The paint laid on great, and hardened in 24 hours!

The cab has been 'drying' for over 2 weeks, and it is still somewhat sticky to the touch- so perhaps another 2 weeks to see if it will harden up? My plan after that is to pull it, remove all paint, then re-shoot with the flat Ultra. Not sure where I went wrong, though...

So is semi-gloss and gloss just a no-no with painting these? I wanted a little shine to mine but I have seen a few people say they had issues with painting semi or gloss.
 

Jackota

New member
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Location
Depoe Bay, Oregon
Finished up rolling the S-250 shelter last weekend after rattle-canning the rest of the truck with Gillespie. I used Behr Marquee flat exterior paint and a 3/4" nap roller. I tried a 1/4" nap at first, but I was seeing lines everywhere no matter how many coats I applied. The 3/4" nap was perfect for the job, and the last coat went on thick. I also brushed & rolled the grille and tail gate panel which matched the Gillespie spray paint perfectly.

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