acthomp781
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That looks good. Where do you find something like that and if you don't ,mind, how much? Thanks.
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Behr Paint Jobs- Show me your MV's
- Thread starter wsucougarx
- Start date
I think I got it in Pennsylvania. I’m always looking for aircraft bits and this was one of the things I found. Have had it for years finally decided to work on it If your interested I would sell for $4500 dolly included.
FS 24087.
The Marines used 34052 for their non staff vehicles during the 60s for nam and since Home Depot has changed their Behr numbering procedure to a new system I have been unable to get this unique color. It’s light and dull compared to the brownish tint the other paint has
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In the last 2 weeks I was able to have Home Depot look up paint by the FS code in their new system . You only use the number portion for the color. In my case 16473 aircraft gray. BTW my Home Depot also still had the old system to look up paint codes
Waterhouse
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Ok, I'm getting close to painting my project. I've got the right colors and did some sample spraying with a gun I got at Lowes. My problem is the paint doesn't seem to be very hard. I can scratch it easily with my fingernails. Maybe I'm not waiting long enough. I put the samples out in the Florida sun for a day and didn't seem to make much differnce. Do I need to wait a couple weeks?
I'm painting aluminum. Not sure what I should be doing to it. I've tried just sanding it with scotch Britt and also priming with zinc cremate. I guess the zinc is better, but not much.
I found that I needed to thin the paint with about 1/3 water to make it spray nice. Is that bad? What about spraying in direct sunlight? Obviously, the metal is hot as hell. Should I get shade or dreary day?
Any recommendations are welcome.
If I can't get a sample right, the project will go to a professional. ($$$)
I'm painting aluminum. Not sure what I should be doing to it. I've tried just sanding it with scotch Britt and also priming with zinc cremate. I guess the zinc is better, but not much.
I found that I needed to thin the paint with about 1/3 water to make it spray nice. Is that bad? What about spraying in direct sunlight? Obviously, the metal is hot as hell. Should I get shade or dreary day?
Any recommendations are welcome.
If I can't get a sample right, the project will go to a professional. ($$$)
Waterhouse
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How long before it won't scratch?
I bought the paint about a year ago. It sat in my garage. It never froze, but it gets cooked everytime the sun shines. Do you think the paint is ruined? (It looks fine)
I bought the paint about a year ago. It sat in my garage. It never froze, but it gets cooked everytime the sun shines. Do you think the paint is ruined? (It looks fine)
Waterhouse
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Paint woes,
I know you guys sware by this paint, but I'm slightly hesitant. I decided to paint some sample pieces to see how it works. This part can't be seen when on the truck, so I'm not worried about how it looks. I sprayed this un thinned on a hot day in full sun.
I know flat looks the most military, but it doesn't wash off easy. I was told "satin" is a bit smoother and is easier to keep clean. Since this is not a exact replica, easy sounds good. The color is fine, but the finish was really rough. You can't see it here, but it is like I painted over sand paper. So I thinned it with about 1-1 with water and I sprayed in the shade. It spayed out much nicer.
It also was much easier to make runs.
The run didn't bother me as it won't show, but I wanted to see if I can fix it if I make the same mistake on a more important part.
It was easy to sand off the run. But what I noticed was the paint will scratch really easy. You can see some scratches I put in the top here. I made them with just my fingernail. I didn't "bare down" on it. I just flicked my nail. You can see I got right down to the aluminum at the beginning of the scratch. All I did for prep was scotch brite the aluminum. I thought maybe it has to have primer, so I did another part, but first I primed it with zinc cromate. I don't have a pic of that, but I can still scratch it easy. The primer does seem to keep from scratching it right down to the aluminum, but still scratches way to easy.
At this point I'm letting it dry a few days to see if it hardens up. The guys on SS say it wares like iron, so I must be doing something wrong.
I know you guys sware by this paint, but I'm slightly hesitant. I decided to paint some sample pieces to see how it works. This part can't be seen when on the truck, so I'm not worried about how it looks. I sprayed this un thinned on a hot day in full sun.
I know flat looks the most military, but it doesn't wash off easy. I was told "satin" is a bit smoother and is easier to keep clean. Since this is not a exact replica, easy sounds good. The color is fine, but the finish was really rough. You can't see it here, but it is like I painted over sand paper. So I thinned it with about 1-1 with water and I sprayed in the shade. It spayed out much nicer.
It also was much easier to make runs.
The run didn't bother me as it won't show, but I wanted to see if I can fix it if I make the same mistake on a more important part.
It was easy to sand off the run. But what I noticed was the paint will scratch really easy. You can see some scratches I put in the top here. I made them with just my fingernail. I didn't "bare down" on it. I just flicked my nail. You can see I got right down to the aluminum at the beginning of the scratch. All I did for prep was scotch brite the aluminum. I thought maybe it has to have primer, so I did another part, but first I primed it with zinc cromate. I don't have a pic of that, but I can still scratch it easy. The primer does seem to keep from scratching it right down to the aluminum, but still scratches way to easy.
At this point I'm letting it dry a few days to see if it hardens up. The guys on SS say it wares like iron, so I must be doing something wrong.
I Think the thinning is the root of your problem. Real CARC paint has a texture to it. It is not smooth. I have never thinned the paint and have had no issues. Also have never used Satin. Have heard it does not work as well. So I can say with flat not thinned I have had no issues.
I paint whatever I’m painting then let it sit inside the shop for a couple of weeks. Not sure if that makes a difference. Your mileage may vary
I paint whatever I’m painting then let it sit inside the shop for a couple of weeks. Not sure if that makes a difference. Your mileage may vary
SturmTyger380
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Most people don't thin the paint but some add floetrol to help the paint laydown better.
https://www.flood.com/products/paint-additives/floetrol-latex-based-paint-additive
https://www.flood.com/products/paint-additives/floetrol-latex-based-paint-additive
And as far as scratching goes yes it will scratch but much like CARC they sort of rub out. Now do I think this is the perfect substitute for real automotive paint no it is not. Wouldn’t paint a classic car with Behr but is more than fine for a restored military vehicle that never had a concours paint job anyway. And this paint is as good or in my opinion better than the Gillespie stuff commonly available. You can also buy a gallon without going through the hassle of shipping. The hardest part is convincing the Home Depot people to use the FS code.
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Finished the paint and body job on this one today. Behr "686 Tan". It cured to the touch in 2 hours (hot and fair humidity) but not enough to stand on. I'll leave it for 2 weeks before I do anything else to it but 30 days is accurate for a full cure.
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Waterhouse
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Looks great! Did you spray full strength? What kind of gun?
I guess I will wait some on my test pieces before I make up my mind.
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Graco Magnum X5 Airless Paint Sprayer is what I'm using right now but wish I stepped it up to the X7 as it's easier to work with 5 gallon buckets. Full strength, medium-low pressure (fine tuned over many paint jobs and adjusted per heat & humidity). I must say that due to surface area required on these trucks it's a blessing as I can focus on my technique and apply even flat coats compared to dealing with other tools that require constant refills, varying spray density, risk of dripping, etc..
I clean my equipment after each use, use the recommended storage solution (for pump protection), ultrasonic clean the gun and parts, etc.. This unit has lasted me 17 trucks and many side projects so far. Until the pump decides to die I'm going to keep it going. I'm on my second spray gun though, they're all the same despite the rebranding.
I clean my equipment after each use, use the recommended storage solution (for pump protection), ultrasonic clean the gun and parts, etc.. This unit has lasted me 17 trucks and many side projects so far. Until the pump decides to die I'm going to keep it going. I'm on my second spray gun though, they're all the same despite the rebranding.
Waterhouse
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So I see you are in Texas. You probably have the same weather I have. Did you spray in a booth? More importantly, did you spray in shade?