Behr Paint Jobs- Show me your MV's

[trvctor]

I've used Premium Plus, Ultra, and Marquee and end up going with Premium Plus more often than not. The higher you go in the branding/"quality" the more glossy they become. I've had lengthy discussions with my local Behr rep and even the flattest Marquee is still an eggshell (in gloss) in comparison to a flat Premium Plus. This truck was done in Premium Plus.

I use an airless sprayer by the 5 gallon bucket. I find it easier and more consistent on spray pattern than using air. Overall I found steam cleaning, Ospho treatment, good rinse, and light spot primer to be the best means to prepare a vehicle for paint. A paint is only as good as the material it can adhere to.

Damn...you are right about the Premium Plus being flatter. I just called Behr to verify. I think for my case the added durability of the "flat" Dynasty will be worth it though.

 

[trvctor]

Yes. Depending on weather. But full cure is usually 30 days. I have had great success on the 8 vehicles I have painted. My first I did not cure long enough. 30 days and you can powerwash!

Are you using flat or satin?

 

[MarkM]

Flats show fingerprints satins don't they also give more durability.

Mark

 

[Speedpin]

Thx to MarkM for his satin paint recommendation. Came out great. Used the Marquee out of a HVLP. Still needs to cure..

 

[MarkM]

Wow she looks great! Nice job and love the color lol

 

[MarkM]

It will take weeks to cure properly so no washing and let it bake in the sun. Nice!

 

[bluesteel01]

Wow she looks great! Nice job and love the color lol

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Looks brand new. Color is beautiful

 

[MarkM]

The color is an old WWII German Panzer green with an extra shot of black. My buddy came up with it for his Pinzgauer 712M and I painted my M101A2 to match so when I got my M998 I went the same way. The M101A2 fits the lines of the Pinzgauer perfectly.

Mark

 

[fuzzytoaster]

Painted these two recently. Can't argue with the results.

 

[trvctor]

Has anyone considered or tried doing a flat Premium Plus and then going over with something like Rustoleum Dead Flat Clear? I am planning to try this out on a test surface. It would be nice to be able to keep the zero-sheen of the flat but also be very durable.

 

[MarkM]

It's all a compromise. I first did part of my truck in semi gloss and it didn't look good at all but the Satin (Matt) did what I wanted. My paint job is over six years old and the paint probably lost half of the sheen. My truck sits outside so the sun does its thing.

Mark

 

[Speedpin]

Doors on.

 

[MarkM]

Nice! She came out real nice. Why did you go with a flat black on a lot of things?

Mark

 

[Speedpin]

Nice! She came out real nice. Why did you go with a flat black on a lot of things?

Mark

Little contrast to break up the green

 

[MarkM]

That's what I'm saying the matt black compliments against the green.

Mark

 

[Terra1936]

This is my 24087 completed just before 4th of July. This was a color match and it IS a bit lighter compared to my jeep which was also done in 24087. As others have stated, I have had zero success in home depot getting ANY worker to find the FSS colors and I've been using behr for over 10 years. I do have the paint code for this, but it's not "true" 24087.

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is that a semi gloss finish?

 

[Terra1936]

Are you using flat or satin?

I used flat.

 

[trvctor]

Hi all,

I wanted to give everyone an update since everyone talked up the Behr paint so heavily and I went ahead and bought some for experimenting. I left a similar post on a different thread here.

Spoiler

Careful there. Behr house paint has nowhere near the same performance as something like an industrial or automotive paint (Sherwin CARC being one example). CARC paints are polyurethane-based, whereas Behr is a 100% acrylic. Not quite the same. I went ahead and played around with the Behr paint myself anyways, letting it cure for over 2 months and I can still leave a mark in the paint with my fingernail if I press hard enough on my aluminum paint lid that I used as a sample surface. If I go to one of the CONEXs on base and try to scratch the paint with my nail IT IS IMPOSSIBLE. Industrial and automotive paints (such as certain types of Sherwin or PPG CARC as it relates to this topic - they have different types), especially 2-part/catalyzed paints, are going to be rock solid and very difficult to scratch.

If you're planning to paint a large MV like a LMTV or Deuce that you don't intend to take out offroading and just plan to keep out on display or cruise around on the pavement, the Behr paint is a fairly solid solution. Premium Plus will give the flattest sheen. Considering it's the cheapest line and also looks the best (and seems to be more difficult to scratch, seriously) it is a win-win. Between the Premium Plus, the Marquee and the Dynasty, go with Premium Plus if you want it to look the most authentic. If you have a smaller MV like an M1030, LSV or CUCV that you want to off-road, it may suit you better to go with the real deal and buying genuine catalyzed industrial or automotive paint. Sherwin Williams sells the CARC primer, paint and catalyst that are all designed to work together. You just need to go to a retail store and they can get a business account created for you. I can't speak for the PPG CARC as I have not explored that avenue.

I have to say I really went down the rabbit hole with paint and was quite disappointed with all the hype around the Behr paint. It is not bad in a pinch, but it is not entirely the magic bullet it seems to be for refinishing MVs.

If you want a more affordable option along the way of catalyzed paint, although you'll be limited to flat black, there are 2-part epoxy primers and 2-part paints in spray cans available online. This way you can still have the durability of a flat polyurethane (which CARC is) without the chem resistance or military green color.

To conclude thus far:

The Premium Plus is the least expensive, the least glossy/the most flat, the most rough and the most durable. This isn't without it's consequences though. For the reasons just mentioned, it's likely due to the fact that it is the least premium option, containing less "premium" additives like UV resistant and self-leveling additives. This means it's rougher, flatter, cheaper, (which is a good thing) but is also less forgiving, more prone to sagging and looking like crap if you don't know what you're doing and susceptible to UV-fading long-term (but from I have seen I'm pretty sure CARC fades over time anyways). BUT, this works in your favor by easily taking on a rough and sandpapery appearance if you purposefully spray it into said finish; there is no self-leveling agent to smooth the paint out like you would have in the Marquee or Dynasty, so this intentional "imperfection" should stay and dry with the paint.

The more premium options like Marquee and Dynasty appear more "plastic-y" when dry. Like a piece of green plastic or acrylic art paint covering the surface as opposed to a rough layer of paint as the Premium Plus looks. I'm sure the latter is the look that people would prefer as it more closely resembles the military paintjob look, however it's important to remember satins can be cleaned more easily and are also more durable than the dead flat. Clearly this is a compromise as you can't seem to eat your cake and have it too.

That being said, I can still leave a mark in the paint if I press my fingernail hard enough into the paint... that's even after months of letting it cure..it could possibly be due to me being on the coast and being cursed with high humidity, but after this long it should've definitely been cured by now. If anyone has any ideas on how I could maybe get some different results I'd definitely be up to trying it. Just thought I would share my results thus far.

If you really need something that is correctly dead-flat and incredibly durable in 383 green/34094 your best bet remains to simply go to your local Sherwin Williams store and have the clerk help you set up a business account so you can order genuine CARC yourself. You can just order the topcoat but it's probably best to order the whole kit with epoxy primer, catalyst/hardener and the topcoat as they're all designed to work together. The Behr still seems solid if you just need something to look the part and your MV won't see any crazy conditions where the durability will be tested, like lots of offroad terrain.

 

[trvctor]

Has anyone considered or tried doing a flat Premium Plus and then going over with something like Rustoleum Dead Flat Clear? I am planning to try this out on a test surface. It would be nice to be able to keep the zero-sheen of the flat but also be very durable.

This also turned out to be a wash. The "dead flat clear" was not dead flat. Big surprise...

 

[MidNightRider]

1985 CUCV, M 1102 Trailer and a S-250 Shelter. All done with paint from Home Depot. Love everything about the paint. I’m all about trying to keeping it close to military as possible, but I work at a Depot and after smelling that crap all day and dealing with all the proper PPE just to touch up a bad spot. I would rather same some money and my life using Home Depot paint.