trvctor
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Damn...you are right about the Premium Plus being flatter. I just called Behr to verify. I think for my case the added durability of the "flat" Dynasty will be worth it though.
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Behr Paint Jobs- Show me your MV's
- Thread starter wsucougarx
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trvctor
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Are you using flat or satin?
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Flats show fingerprints satins don't they also give more durability.
Mark
Mark
Speedpin
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Thx to MarkM for his satin paint recommendation. Came out great. Used the Marquee out of a HVLP. Still needs to cure..
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Wow she looks great! Nice job and love the color lol
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It will take weeks to cure properly so no washing and let it bake in the sun. Nice!
bluesteel01
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Looks brand new. Color is beautiful
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The color is an old WWII German Panzer green with an extra shot of black. My buddy came up with it for his Pinzgauer 712M and I painted my M101A2 to match so when I got my M998 I went the same way. The M101A2 fits the lines of the Pinzgauer perfectly.
Mark
Mark
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Painted these two recently. Can't argue with the results.
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trvctor
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Has anyone considered or tried doing a flat Premium Plus and then going over with something like Rustoleum Dead Flat Clear? I am planning to try this out on a test surface. It would be nice to be able to keep the zero-sheen of the flat but also be very durable.
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It's all a compromise. I first did part of my truck in semi gloss and it didn't look good at all but the Satin (Matt) did what I wanted. My paint job is over six years old and the paint probably lost half of the sheen. My truck sits outside so the sun does its thing.
Mark
Mark
Speedpin
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Doors on. 
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Nice! She came out real nice. Why did you go with a flat black on a lot of things?
Mark
Mark
Speedpin
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Little contrast to break up the green
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That's what I'm saying the matt black compliments against the green.
Mark
Mark
Terra1936
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is that a semi gloss finish?
Terra1936
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I used flat.
trvctor
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Hi all,
I wanted to give everyone an update since everyone talked up the Behr paint so heavily and I went ahead and bought some for experimenting. I left a similar post on a different thread here.
To conclude thus far:
The Premium Plus is the least expensive, the least glossy/the most flat, the most rough and the most durable. This isn't without it's consequences though. For the reasons just mentioned, it's likely due to the fact that it is the least premium option, containing less "premium" additives like UV resistant and self-leveling additives. This means it's rougher, flatter, cheaper, (which is a good thing) but is also less forgiving, more prone to sagging and looking like crap if you don't know what you're doing and susceptible to UV-fading long-term (but from I have seen I'm pretty sure CARC fades over time anyways). BUT, this works in your favor by easily taking on a rough and sandpapery appearance if you purposefully spray it into said finish; there is no self-leveling agent to smooth the paint out like you would have in the Marquee or Dynasty, so this intentional "imperfection" should stay and dry with the paint.
The more premium options like Marquee and Dynasty appear more "plastic-y" when dry. Like a piece of green plastic or acrylic art paint covering the surface as opposed to a rough layer of paint as the Premium Plus looks. I'm sure the latter is the look that people would prefer as it more closely resembles the military paintjob look, however it's important to remember satins can be cleaned more easily and are also more durable than the dead flat. Clearly this is a compromise as you can't seem to eat your cake and have it too.
That being said, I can still leave a mark in the paint if I press my fingernail hard enough into the paint... that's even after months of letting it cure..it could possibly be due to me being on the coast and being cursed with high humidity, but after this long it should've definitely been cured by now. If anyone has any ideas on how I could maybe get some different results I'd definitely be up to trying it. Just thought I would share my results thus far.
If you really need something that is correctly dead-flat and incredibly durable in 383 green/34094 your best bet remains to simply go to your local Sherwin Williams store and have the clerk help you set up a business account so you can order genuine CARC yourself. You can just order the topcoat but it's probably best to order the whole kit with epoxy primer, catalyst/hardener and the topcoat as they're all designed to work together. The Behr still seems solid if you just need something to look the part and your MV won't see any crazy conditions where the durability will be tested, like lots of offroad terrain.
I wanted to give everyone an update since everyone talked up the Behr paint so heavily and I went ahead and bought some for experimenting. I left a similar post on a different thread here.
To conclude thus far:
The Premium Plus is the least expensive, the least glossy/the most flat, the most rough and the most durable. This isn't without it's consequences though. For the reasons just mentioned, it's likely due to the fact that it is the least premium option, containing less "premium" additives like UV resistant and self-leveling additives. This means it's rougher, flatter, cheaper, (which is a good thing) but is also less forgiving, more prone to sagging and looking like crap if you don't know what you're doing and susceptible to UV-fading long-term (but from I have seen I'm pretty sure CARC fades over time anyways). BUT, this works in your favor by easily taking on a rough and sandpapery appearance if you purposefully spray it into said finish; there is no self-leveling agent to smooth the paint out like you would have in the Marquee or Dynasty, so this intentional "imperfection" should stay and dry with the paint.
The more premium options like Marquee and Dynasty appear more "plastic-y" when dry. Like a piece of green plastic or acrylic art paint covering the surface as opposed to a rough layer of paint as the Premium Plus looks. I'm sure the latter is the look that people would prefer as it more closely resembles the military paintjob look, however it's important to remember satins can be cleaned more easily and are also more durable than the dead flat. Clearly this is a compromise as you can't seem to eat your cake and have it too.
That being said, I can still leave a mark in the paint if I press my fingernail hard enough into the paint... that's even after months of letting it cure..it could possibly be due to me being on the coast and being cursed with high humidity, but after this long it should've definitely been cured by now. If anyone has any ideas on how I could maybe get some different results I'd definitely be up to trying it. Just thought I would share my results thus far.
If you really need something that is correctly dead-flat and incredibly durable in 383 green/34094 your best bet remains to simply go to your local Sherwin Williams store and have the clerk help you set up a business account so you can order genuine CARC yourself. You can just order the topcoat but it's probably best to order the whole kit with epoxy primer, catalyst/hardener and the topcoat as they're all designed to work together. The Behr still seems solid if you just need something to look the part and your MV won't see any crazy conditions where the durability will be tested, like lots of offroad terrain.
trvctor
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This also turned out to be a wash. The "dead flat clear" was not dead flat. Big surprise...
MidNightRider
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1985 CUCV, M 1102 Trailer and a S-250 Shelter. All done with paint from Home Depot. Love everything about the paint. I’m all about trying to keeping it close to military as possible, but I work at a Depot and after smelling that crap all day and dealing with all the proper PPE just to touch up a bad spot. I would rather same some money and my life using Home Depot paint. 
