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Bolt on wheel spacers for the deuce. Where to get them?

M37M35

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I need to move the front tires of my deuce out about 2 1/2" due to clearance issues. I've searched the internet and this site and haven't been able to find what I need.

I'm looking for something like this, in the deuce bolt pattern obviously.

wheel spacers.jpg


Does anyone know if there's any place that sells them?

Are there any members here with the ability to make them?

Thanks!
 

M.Ellis

Active member
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Location
Boyertown PA
I need to move the front tires of my deuce out about 2 1/2" due to clearance issues. I've searched the internet and this site and haven't been able to find what I need.

I'm looking for something like this, in the deuce bolt pattern obviously.

View attachment 847124


Does anyone know if there's any place that sells them?

Are there any members here with the ability to make them?

Thanks!
Idk… I wouldn’t run spacers on my 1500 Silverado let alone on a deuce. Sounds like your asking for trouble. Just my opinion though.
 

98G

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I need to move the front tires of my deuce out about 2 1/2" due to clearance issues. I've searched the internet and this site and haven't been able to find what I need.

I'm looking for something like this, in the deuce bolt pattern obviously.

View attachment 847124


Does anyone know if there's any place that sells them?

Are there any members here with the ability to make them?

Thanks!

What do you currently have for wheels and tires?

@peashooter was making adapter plates. I'm not aware of anyone making spacers.

I'm suspecting there's an easier/cheaper/safer way to get the results you want.
 

M.Ellis

Active member
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28
Location
Boyertown PA
What do you currently have for wheels and tires?

@peashooter was making adapter plates. I'm not aware of anyone making spacers.

I'm suspecting there's an easier/cheaper/safer way to get the results you want.
Take easier and cheaper out. That’s why guys run wheel spacers to begin with. There cheap and easy. Safer is usually not easier or cheaper.
I suspect he’s running 14.00 or 16.00 with no lift and now he’s rubbing the J pipe. If that is the case, lift would correct that. Would need more info on why the need for wheel spacers.
 

M37M35

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What do you currently have for wheels and tires?

@peashooter was making adapter plates. I'm not aware of anyone making spacers.

I'm suspecting there's an easier/cheaper/safer way to get the results you want.
I have 11x20 tires on the stock deuce wheels.

I just installed the Waterloo power steering kit, and with the steering box on the outside of the frame, the pitman arm is in the way of the tire making a right turn. I adjusted the right-turn limit bolt on the knuckle so the tire doesn't actually hit, but now my ability to make a right turn is really hindered.

I actually had to replace the limit bolt with one 1" longer cause the original one was too short to adjust out long enough.
As a result, the right turn radius is probably 30% wider than the left turn.

Making a right turn at an intersection from one two-lane road to another two-lane road now takes me all the way into the opposing lane of traffic, whereas it didn't before with the stock steering box.
 

98G

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What you want is input from someone running the waterloo kit. I'll dig and see if I can find something relevant.

Edit -


More edit, specific to 11.00s -


Yet more edit, and this one probably has your answer - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/waterloo-power-steering-project.133639/
 
Last edited:

M.Ellis

Active member
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227
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Location
Boyertown PA
I have 11x20 tires on the stock deuce wheels.

I just installed the Waterloo power steering kit, and with the steering box on the outside of the frame, the pitman arm is in the way of the tire making a right turn. I adjusted the right-turn limit bolt on the knuckle so the tire doesn't actually hit, but now my ability to make a right turn is really hindered.

I actually had to replace the limit bolt with one 1" longer cause the original one was too short to adjust out long enough.
As a result, the right turn radius is probably 30% wider than the left turn.

Making a right turn at an intersection from one two-lane road to another two-lane road now takes me all the way into the opposing lane of traffic, whereas it didn't before with the stock steering box.
anyway you can contact Waterloo directly about it?
 

M37M35

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What you want is input from someone running the waterloo kit. I'll dig and see if I can find something relevant.

Edit -

Thanks!

I've seen a couple posts that say there's no interference, and a couple that say there is. I don't know if there's some differences in some deuces that account for that.

My deuce is an older one that originally had the gas engine. I don't know if that could make a difference. I know it has a different engine crossmember.
 

98G

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Take easier and cheaper out. That’s why guys run wheel spacers to begin with. There cheap and easy. Safer is usually not easier or cheaper.
I suspect he’s running 14.00 or 16.00 with no lift and now he’s rubbing the J pipe. If that is the case, lift would correct that. Would need more info on why the need for wheel spacers.
Aluminum spacers are cheap and easy. Steel spacers are $600ish. One-off steel spacers for a market of 1 are going to be at least double that. At that price point you're getting within striking distance of MRAP rims( which may or may not resolve it)

He isn't running 14.00's or 16.00's unless his truck is bobbed or he altered the spacing between the rear axles (nontrivial). I expected 395's on stock rims.

11.00s should be OK. The culprit is the power steering. Since other people run the waterloo steering system and I've never heard of anyone using spacers, there has to be a way around it. I don't know what it is. I intend to find out.
 

Recovry4x4

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The Canadian M35 rims might be an alternative or at least worth a looks. I think they are a skinnier M35A3 rim
 

ldmack3

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I have 11x20 tires on the stock deuce wheels.

I just installed the Waterloo power steering kit, and with the steering box on the outside of the frame, the pitman arm is in the way of the tire making a right turn. I adjusted the right-turn limit bolt on the knuckle so the tire doesn't actually hit, but now my ability to make a right turn is really hindered.

I actually had to replace the limit bolt with one 1" longer cause the original one was too short to adjust out long enough.
As a result, the right turn radius is probably 30% wider than the left turn.

Making a right turn at an intersection from one two-lane road to another two-lane road now takes me all the way into the opposing lane of traffic, whereas it didn't before with the stock steering box.
Same with me. Let us know what you find.
 

M37M35

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Aluminum spacers are cheap and easy. Steel spacers are $600ish. One-off steel spacers for a market of 1 are going to be at least double that. At that price point you're getting within striking distance of MRAP rims( which may or may not resolve it)
Re-centered hemtt rims and singled 395s will resolve it, if lesser means fail. I would do this before resorting to spacers.
I'd look for recentered HEMTTs or MRAPs with adapters. Or PLS wheels with adapters. Course then you'll want to go to a 395 or something "large".
I would think I could get proper steel spacers made for a lot less than that. Maybe not... I'll check around.

I'm not opposed to switching to MRAP or some other rims and 395s if they would solve the issue, except for being able to afford them right now after buying the power steering. Unless someone wants to trade their 395s for my 11x20s...

The Canadian M35 rims might be an alternative or at least worth a looks. I think they are a skinnier M35A3 rim
Any idea on availability?


Maybe this thread gets you motivated enough to modify a set of stock wheels, by flipping the center plates?

Safer than spacers? Anytime!
That's a possibility, if I can find enough riveted wheels.
But the last page didn't sound very encouraging...
Look good, drive like crap.

Dirt
Jesusgatos never reported back and said how his handled.
 

gringeltaube

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That's a possibility, if I can find enough riveted wheels.
The same can be done with welded wheels, but you better had a lathe with >60cm swing to do this right.
Look good, drive like crap.
So what...? No specifics?
Fact is, you don't build custom wheels just to look good...
With the right tools, runout tolerances can/should be way below factory. (If wobbling/hopping even was his problem; IDK.....)
 

M37M35

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East Central Oklahoma
The same can be done with welded wheels, but you better had a lathe with >60cm swing to do this right.
So what...? No specifics?
Fact is, you don't build custom wheels just to look good...
With the right tools, runout tolerances can/should be way below factory. (If wobbling/hopping even was his problem; IDK.....)
Yeah, I don't know anyone with a lathe that big.

Two people did it. One never reported back and isn't active on the site anymore. The other said they drive like crap.
There shouldn't be a problem with re-centering a wheel, and I don't much care what they look like. I'd just feel better knowing all the facts before I did all that work and found out it solves one problem but creates another.

I'd like to know if it created a steering/handling issue by moving the tires farther out from the kingpins, or was it fabricator error and the wheels weren't running true?

I can do it the same way Jesusgatos did, if that's able to get them true enough...
 

G744

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Maybe get a pair of M34 (M135) wheels, they have the rim set out a bit, and were designed to run as singles all around.

Might just give you enough room.

Dennis
 

18E40

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Huntsville, Alabama
Motorsport Tech BORA adapters. This guy will make steel adapters but he quoted me 5-6 weeks to make them.

 
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