Bringing back to life a 2009 HMMWV M1165A1 from GovPlanet - total newbie, please help...

[T9000]

If you don't mind, which are the exact manuals for the 2008+ M1165A1? I spent a lot of time going thru manuals that say are from 1997 and talk about parts that are not on my truck, like the so called Cadillac valve so I have to double check and triple check everything, read the whole forum and then ask here what I cannot find out.

In the manuals I looked at they say there should be a CDR valve here like the picture, but I looked at all the pictures of the M1165A1 for sale and they don't show it, are they all missing it?



Here is from another forum without an answer:


A few Marines in my shop are having trouble locating the NSN for the CDR Valve on a M1165A1. This has never happened to us before for any part, but most Marines have trouble in my shop finding NSN's for any M1165A1 because the TM it is listed in focuses heavily on the M1113 and M1114's. The UOC is UU2, any help is appreciated. Also, my shop has never ordered a CDR Valve before so we have no history of ever using/finding the NSN.

Another one:

The above NIIN 011479284 isn't correct. that niin doesn't come with the top breather line. does anyone have the correct one?

Thanks!

 

[Action]

If you don't mind, which are the exact manuals for the 2008+ M1165A1? I spent a lot of time going thru manuals that say are from 1997 and talk about parts that are not on my truck, like the so called Cadillac valve so I have to double check and triple check everything, read the whole forum and then ask here what I cannot find out.

In the manuals I looked at they say there should be a CDR valve here like the picture, but I looked at all the pictures of the M1165A1 for sale and they don't show it, are they all missing it?

View attachment 852390

Here is from another forum without an answer:


A few Marines in my shop are having trouble locating the NSN for the CDR Valve on a M1165A1. This has never happened to us before for any part, but most Marines have trouble in my shop finding NSN's for any M1165A1 because the TM it is listed in focuses heavily on the M1113 and M1114's. The UOC is UU2, any help is appreciated. Also, my shop has never ordered a CDR Valve before so we have no history of ever using/finding the NSN.

Another one:

The above NIIN 011479284 isn't correct. that niin doesn't come with the top breather line. does anyone have the correct one?

Thanks!

GP removes the CRD valve and sticks a hose in it's place. part of demil process. You can find the one with the nipple on top in the fording section of the parts manual. Your m1165a1 will be noted as "serial numbers 300,000 and above".
TM 9-2320-387-10
TM 9-2320-387-24-1
TM 9-2320-387-24-2
TM 9-2320-387-24p

look for pdf s that have updated manuals from 2009. The date is NOT on the front page. It is usually on page 3 when updates have been inserted.
If you cannot find the 2009 versions, then use TB 9-2320-335-13&p. This was merged into the other TM's in 2009.

 

[T9000]

GP removes the CRD valve and sticks a hose in it's place. part of demil process. You can find the one with the nipple on top in the fording section of the parts manual. Your m1165a1 will be noted as "serial numbers 300,000 and above".
TM 9-2320-387-10
TM 9-2320-387-24-1
TM 9-2320-387-24-2
TM 9-2320-387-24p

look for pdf s that have updated manuals from 2009. The date is NOT on the front page. It is usually on page 3 when updates have been inserted.
If you cannot find the 2009 versions, then use TB 9-2320-335-13&p. This was merged into the other TM's in 2009.

Thanks! Yes, I collected all manuals that mention the 1165A1 in one directory and search thru all of them. I think the newest one I found is from around 2007, which is not in front but further down inside the manual, several pages.

thanks again! I am at a party and still thinking about the truck

 

[T9000]

Action, just to make sure I am reading the manuals correctly, please see the attached picture notes where I understand that the CDR valve should be:



Also, I presume it's OK to remove the two unattached rubber tubes #1 & #2 since I don't have a water fording system?



I am planning to order and install CDR valve part number 25042462 which also translates to 12340256 and which shows up as a dual use CUCV/ HMMWV but as a different part number 25042443 that I could not find in the TM, are those the same CDR valves?
I am asking because the vendor that sells the 25042443/ 12340256 clearly specifies that the parts are NOT Chinese fakes, which I totally understand and want to avoid as I used to do business in China (selling US made products) and it's unbelievable the amount of cheating, stealing and thieving of US and other technology that is taking place there, most people have no clue, anyway, sorry for the digression, but just so you know my thinking.

 

[T9000]

I would get another air filter can.

The rubber hose goes through a grommet on driver side firewall and hooks to air restriction gauge.

The plastic hose is where almost everything vents to the atmosphere.

There is a silver “cloth” boot that covers the rubber boot on the bottom of shifter. Blocks some heat. If that is what you see, it is fine.

I ordered a new air cleaner assembly, like you said.

 

[Action]

Action, just to make sure I am reading the manuals correctly, please see the attached picture notes where I understand that the CDR valve should be:

View attachment 852441

Also, I presume it's OK to remove the two unattached rubber tubes #1 & #2 since I don't have a water fording system?

View attachment 852445

I am planning to order and install CDR valve part number 25042462 which also translates to 12340256 and which shows up as a dual use CUCV/ HMMWV but as a different part number 25042443 that I could not find in the TM, are those the same CDR valves?
I am asking because the vendor that sells the 25042443/ 12340256 clearly specifies that the parts are NOT Chinese fakes, which I totally understand and want to avoid as I used to do business in China (selling US made products) and it's unbelievable the amount of cheating, stealing and thieving of US and other technology that is taking place there, most people have no clue, anyway, sorry for the digression, but just so you know my thinking.

If they are not Chinese fakes, could they be REAL Chinese parts?
The thin hose stuck into the other 2 can be removed when the CDR valve is installed. Yes, that black bracket is for the CDR valve. Two bolts hold it on. The odd shaped hose attached to the plastic air horn routes under the CDR bracket and attaches to the bottom of the CDR valve. The hose going to the oil fill tube attaches to the side of the CDR valve.

 

[T9000]

If they are not Chinese fakes, could they be REAL Chinese parts?
The thin hose stuck into the other 2 can be removed when the CDR valve is installed. Yes, that black bracket is for the CDR valve. Two bolts hold it on. The odd shaped hose attached to the plastic air horn routes under the CDR bracket and attaches to the bottom of the CDR valve. The hose going to the oil fill tube attaches to the side of the CDR valve.

If they are real Chinese parts then it should say on it. It should say Made in China and have a factory/ brand so you know what you are buying, but they don't so they can sell it for more than it is worth and pretend to be better quality parts than they are. I was not born in US and everywhere else I have done business, that's called deceiving/ stealing, including in China...and there are many ramifications from there, but that's another conversation

How about the 25042443/ 12340256 CDR valve part number listed as being for CUCV/ HMMWV, would that work?

Thanks!

 

[Action]

Yes. 12340256 is an AMG part number for a non-fording CDR valve.

 

[T9000]

Yes. 12340256 is an AMG part number for a non-fording CDR valve.

Thanks!

 

[T9000]

Hi, the new CDR valve it is arriving on Monday and I have an appointment to install new tires this Saturday (I did one myself and the biggest deal was breaking the bead to remove the wheel), what is the downside of driving without a CDR valve (I have no blow-by as it stands) a few times? Maybe 50-75 miles so far?

 

[Action]

Hi, the new CDR valve it is arriving on Monday and I have an appointment to install new tires this Saturday (I did one myself and the biggest deal was breaking the bead to remove the wheel), what is the downside of driving without a CDR valve (I have no blow-by as it stands) a few times? Maybe 50-75 miles so far?

Most folks would say the runflat is the hardest part. You found a tire shop to deal with those? Print the TM page with torque sequence and amounts fir the rims. See if they like you telling them how to do their job!
i went to a Tire Discounters once just for balancing. The manager got real defensive when i suggested not to have the hmmwv way up in the air when they take tire/wheel off truck. Then the manager argued they were rightthat I had 2 tires backwards on the rim. I tried to explain why the tires are like that, but they are the professionals, not me. Right?

 

[TNDRIVER]

Hi, the new CDR valve it is arriving on Monday and I have an appointment to install new tires this Saturday (I did one myself and the biggest deal was breaking the bead to remove the wheel), what is the downside of driving without a CDR valve (I have no blow-by as it stands) a few times? Maybe 50-75 miles so far?

Tires are one of the maintenance practices best done DYI. Once the shop see's them I would guess the shop will not touch them or that the price will be astronomical. Just my 2 cents. By the way, it takes me all day to do 4 with run flats. Lots of breaks!

 

[T9000]

Tires are one of the maintenance practices best done DYI. Once the shop see's them I would guess the shop will not touch them or that the price will be astronomical. Just my 2 cents. By the way, it takes me all day to do 4 with run flats. Lots of breaks!

Hahaha, I totally understand what you mean about taking all day and the breaks, I break for a cold beer just to recover Yes, I agree about the DYI and besides enjoying to do it myself, I feel there are so many details involved, like cleaning the o-ring groove, getting the O-ring installed right, doing the right bolt sequence, etc,
Just moving around and lift the fully assembled tires with the run flats inside it's a workout in itself lol...that's where the cold beers come in to keep my system going
You are 100% correct about most tire shops not wanting to touch them and eventually I found a local shop that's familiar with two piece wheels and they did H1s before, they said they can do it for $300 including balancing, which is good given how much time it takes.

Any words of wisdom about driving 20-30 miles without the CDR valve (it's bypassed with a hose for now, like Action said) or what could be the downside as I drove it about 50-75 miles without it already?

Thanks!

 

[TNDRIVER]

Hahaha, I totally understand what you mean about taking all day and the breaks, I break for a cold beer just to recover Yes, I agree about the DYI and besides enjoying to do it myself, I feel there are so many details involved, like cleaning the o-ring groove, getting the O-ring installed right, doing the right bolt sequence, etc,
Just moving around and lift the fully assembled tires with the run flats inside it's a workout in itself lol...that's where the cold beers come in to keep my system going
You are 100% correct about most tire shops not wanting to touch them and eventually I found a local shop that's familiar with two piece wheels and they did H1s before, they said they can do it for $300 including balancing, which is good given how much time it takes.

Any words of wisdom about driving 20-30 miles without the CDR valve (it's bypassed with a hose for now, like Action said) or what could be the downside as I drove it about 50-75 miles without it already?

Thanks!

The CDR regulates the amount of blowby inside the engine back into the intake. If the guys that removed it did a good job looping the hoses(no leaks) it will put the internals under negative pressure but not a great deal. Diesels are not "air throttled" but fuel throttled. If the looped hoses are leaking you can get dirt and dust into the engine. It might burn a little oil but the short answer is 30 miles light throttle should be fine. I would consider rebuilding the fording system as it pressurizes the hubs and other components that are easily submerged. Good luck!

 

[T9000]

The CDR regulates the amount of blowby inside the engine back into the intake. If the guys that removed it did a good job looping the hoses(no leaks) it will put the internals under negative pressure but not a great deal. Diesels are not "air throttled" but fuel throttled. If the looped hoses are leaking you can get dirt and dust into the engine. It might burn a little oil but the short answer is 30 miles light throttle should be fine. I would consider rebuilding the fording system as it pressurizes the hubs and other components that are easily submerged. Good luck!

Yes, the CDR bypass hose seems installed pretty tight, I couldn't push it or move it further. OK, I was was thinking to rebuild the fording system and now that you mention it, I will. There is at least one deviation on my truck from the tubing diagrams in the manual, where the steering pump vent line it is routed by itself (not connected to the overall vent system) all the way to the top of the breather. After I get all the parts together, I may ask some clarifying questions if you don't mind.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it!

 

[T9000]

Most folks would say the runflat is the hardest part. You found a tire shop to deal with those? Print the TM page with torque sequence and amounts fir the rims. See if they like you telling them how to do their job!
i went to a Tire Discounters once just for balancing. The manager got real defensive when i suggested not to have the hmmwv way up in the air when they take tire/wheel off truck. Then the manager argued they were rightthat I had 2 tires backwards on the rim. I tried to explain why the tires are like that, but they are the professionals, not me. Right?

That's why I like to do it myself, I am just like that too, I watch closely and get in there if they are doing something I don't like, but this place I found they immediately recognized the tires (I have them in my daily driver truck bed) and they said they are two piece H1 type, which they are doing. They are more of a higher end shop, in a dealership park and they handle all dealers special requests, the manager was very detailed and patient, which is important to me. And, yes, I did print the whole part with the bolt sequence and carry it in the truck to show them what it takes.
BTW, I did buy the new tires with the run-flats already inserted, which is like you say the hardest part, with breaking the bead being the second hard part, I eventually took it to Costco and had them remove the wheel from the old tire. I got lucky and ran into very nice people, who would not even accept cash.
And I am looking to get a set of Centramatic for $275. By the time I pay $30-$40 per tire to balance it, it will pay for itself after 2 sets and I think it will work better from what I read.
I am very happy with the one tire that I did and you make me rethink going to the tire shop

 

[T9000]

The CDR regulates the amount of blowby inside the engine back into the intake. If the guys that removed it did a good job looping the hoses(no leaks) it will put the internals under negative pressure but not a great deal. Diesels are not "air throttled" but fuel throttled. If the looped hoses are leaking you can get dirt and dust into the engine. It might burn a little oil but the short answer is 30 miles light throttle should be fine. I would consider rebuilding the fording system as it pressurizes the hubs and other components that are easily submerged. Good luck!

Here is how the steering pump plastic vent line is running right to the top of the breather, and I don't believe it is something done as part of the demil, it seems it has been like that as it is painted in and they would not bother to add the brackets and route it nicely like that, I think.



From looking at the manual diagrams, the steering pump vent line should go into a tee and into the overall truck vent system, not stand alone like this.
Am I reading the info correctly or am I missing something?

 

[Action]

That hose going up the intake stack should be plugged to the end of a little metal canister sitting behind the coolant overflow tank. It is for the fuel tank.
A centramatic rep told me that the tires should be balance when using their product.
Balancemasters are the product that instructs us to remove weights.

 

[T9000]

That hose going up the intake stack should be plugged to the end of a little metal canister sitting behind the coolant overflow tank. It is for the fuel tank.
A centramatic rep told me that the tires should be balance when using their product.
Balancemasters are the product that instructs us to remove weights.

Their web site says there is no pre-balancing required:


I will call them to double check.
Yes, I think there is another tube the connects to the fuel tank vent behind the cooling tank and I think that’s the other metal tube that’s going inside the stack at the top (it’s painted the same tan color) next to the plastic vent line which stops right before entering the stack. I will check later when I get home.

 

[Action]

Their web site says there is no pre-balancing required:

View attachment 852909
I will call them to double check.
Yes, I think there is another tube the connects to the fuel tank vent behind the cooling tank and I think that’s the other metal tube that’s going inside the stack at the top (it’s painted the same tan color) next to the plastic vent line which stops right before entering the stack. I will check later when I get home.

The guy i spoke with at Centramatics drives an H1. I dont recall his name. That is just a general product page. Maybe our tires/wherl are different due to the 150 plus pound weight.