• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Covered M1102

Shark Bait

Active member
720
59
28
Location
Charleston, West Virginia
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

I needed a covered trailer for an upcoming work project and decided one of my M1102's would be the perfect choice. Still gotta mount the spare tire carrier on the front in replacement of the Jerry can holder. Will post more pictures afterwards.

Dave
 

Shark Bait

Active member
720
59
28
Location
Charleston, West Virginia
The sides are framed with 16ga 1" square tubing. The top cross supports are 11ga 1" square tubing with a slight upward bow. The top is 11ga sheeting, the sides are 16ga sheeting, front and rear is 14ga sheeting and door is framed with 16ga 1" square tubing covered with 16ga sheeting. All steel, with lift shackles. Covered with spray on bed liner inside and out then rattle can rust oleum camo paint. Weighs in right at 500lbs.
 

FloridaAKM

Well-known member
2,699
392
83
Location
Gainesville, Florida
I have seen anchors & bows for sale, but no actual covers anywhere. That is probably a factor why the Atlanta M1102 trailer w/ bows & cargo covers prices were so high this past week!
OK, that is sweet! I need this for our Cub Scout trailer. I can't find a cargo cover and bows.

I sent a PM.

Bill
 

ghostcrab

New member
21
0
0
Location
Jacksonville Beach Fl.
You hit that right on the head, I backed off all the covered units cuz it was getting to rich for my little crews budget.There was one camo cover that I inspected that was new out of the box!! I stayed with that one a while longer but had to bail after it hit the 6"s
 

PATRIOT1

Member
88
0
8
Location
Southeastern Ohio
Dave,

Great job - wow! Did you use the existing threaded holes on the flat top of the trailer to affix your fab'd unit? I see a clamp, which makes me think you went for the permanent install, with sealant, etc... Nice.
 

Shark Bait

Active member
720
59
28
Location
Charleston, West Virginia
Dave,

Great job - wow! Did you use the existing threaded holes on the flat top of the trailer to affix your fab'd unit? I see a clamp, which makes me think you went for the permanent install, with sealant, etc... Nice.

Thanks, the clamps were temporary to keep exact location to weld the mounting brackets. They attach using the original threaded inserts. It is sealed with truck cap weather stripping between bed and topper. I will be wiring up lighting inside along with a solar charger for a small sealed battery to run interior lighting.

Dave
 

FloridaAKM

Well-known member
2,699
392
83
Location
Gainesville, Florida
Removed unnessary garbage from a quality thread of real substance!
You hit that right on the head, I backed off all the covered units cuz it was getting to rich for my little crews budget.There was one camo cover that I inspected that was new out of the box!! I stayed with that one a while longer but had to bail after it hit the 6"s
 
Last edited:

wvu dodge

Member
42
3
6
Location
Fairmont, WV
Man thats some nice work. I like how you flanged the recess around the back hatch. Makes it more weather proof, but its also one of those little details that kind of shows off the skill and amount of thought you put into it.

You said you used foam gasket for the joint where it sets on the bed, but did you ever consider building the framework flush with the bedsides, and dropping the sheeting down an inch or 2 past the flange? Just curious, but it may look a little strange, and now that I think about it, when you lift the hood off and set it on the ground when you aren't using it, it would be sitting on thin gage sheet metal instead of the frame.

Very nice.
 

Shark Bait

Active member
720
59
28
Location
Charleston, West Virginia
Man thats some nice work. I like how you flanged the recess around the back hatch. Makes it more weather proof, but its also one of those little details that kind of shows off the skill and amount of thought you put into it.

You said you used foam gasket for the joint where it sets on the bed, but did you ever consider building the framework flush with the bedsides, and dropping the sheeting down an inch or 2 past the flange? Just curious, but it may look a little strange, and now that I think about it, when you lift the hood off and set it on the ground when you aren't using it, it would be sitting on thin gage sheet metal instead of the frame.

Very nice.
Yeah, originally we were but yes, sitting it off would damage the sheeting. I got my lift struts on the rear gate this evening and the spare tire rack on. I'll try to get pictures up soon.

Dave
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks