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CUCV Heaven, My build of a 1009 and 1008

ezgn

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We had another productive day...got the battery trays out of the m1009 and he spent 5 hours cleaning, grinding and welding in some new metal to replace some rust...came out great...should get the new fender and well on it Sunday. On the M1008 front I spent a little time dialing in the vacuum at the throttle and then final tune at the modulator...I don't think I'll need to change it any...ended up with right at 11 hg at the throttle and a few turns in at the modulator and it shifts strong and downshifts easy. It runs great now so I'm not sure what else to do to it!


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You do good work. It's nice to see a man being a father to his son.
 

WWRD99

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I got a new coolant overflow bottle today that fits kinda...it was super cheap so I'll hunt for something that will fit better...this ones top mount that needed drilled to fit, which I knew beforehand, is about an inch away from where it needs to be and the bump isn't deep enough...no biggie really at least now it has one...on the never fixed agenda-the truck talked to me last night with a flashing gen 2 light that I can't see during the day...oddly enough it reacts when I use either turn signal and have a high rpm...it actually blinks like the flasher for a few clicks then gets a little dimmer but doesn't go out...this is screaming bad ground somewhere!! I didn't do a pic or video of it since I was driving...but it's like another turn signal indicator on the dash! Silly stuff, I'll update once I find it!! Unfortunately the 1009 did not get it's new fender and liner put on today...he was out there early this morning getting into it...I was out taking the dogs for their morning jaunt and I heard a loud bang and him screaming out a bunch...turns out he took the hood spring off the passengers side and thought it would hold itself up...well he learned that it wouldn't the hard way and got whacked in the head and a bloody nose...so we took the rest of the day off and had a few grilled cheese.


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WWRD99

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So little update on the 1009...we took another shot at the fender Monday after school and it went great...got the battery trays all bolted in nice...I did find that the fender liner had dimples where you should drill holes for the battery trays to go in...thought that was nice...used some anti sneeze on everything with new u nuts and cleaned up bolts...looks new...find it funny that the fender is from a diesel truck with the 6.2 on it...can't wait to scuff this body up and paint it up... he wants the desert tan with flat black steel parts everywhere else...should be a blast...gotta wait for a warmer week but it won't be long!!

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WWRD99

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Looks great! Getting things really cleaned up. Where did you end up getting the liners from? I got a drivers side from LMC but they’ve been out of stock on the passenger for a while it seems.
We searched a few local guys that hoard gm parts...this guy is near Chambersburg right off 81 south of Carlilse...he has acres of trucks and parts...I think I counted 18 cabs and countless trucks, suburbans and blazers...has a huge pole barn filled with picked parts too and dozens of trailers full...we did the import one and it was paper thin so we passed and got lucky finding him...he had a trailer with a bunch in it...think they were 100 pair but needed painted up to be nice but no rust at all...that would be a drive for you to get there but I'm sure you'd get whatever you could possibly want...He has a cab there off a 1008 with the entire interior in it...I told him I wanted that!! Gotta run out again to get it.
 

adf5565

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We searched a few local guys that hoard gm parts...this guy is near Chambersburg right off 81 south of Carlilse...he has acres of trucks and parts...I think I counted 18 cabs and countless trucks, suburbans and blazers...has a huge pole barn filled with picked parts too and dozens of trailers full...we did the import one and it was paper thin so we passed and got lucky finding him...he had a trailer with a bunch in it...think they were 100 pair but needed painted up to be nice but no rust at all...that would be a drive for you to get there but I'm sure you'd get whatever you could possibly want...He has a cab there off a 1008 with the entire interior in it...I told him I wanted that!! Gotta run out again to get it.
Nice that’s a great find! Maybe one day if I’m still looking for parts I’ll have to take a road trip
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
On the inner fender aprons. The import ones work fine for many years. One thing. You can't just take a new import and install it. They are coated in wash primer and that has zero corrosion resistance. I have scuffed and primed them. I have scuffed and painted them. The best method I have discovered is to scuff prime and coat them with Rusfree undercoating. https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Rubberized-Undercoating-Material-RUS-1020F6/dp/B000Q6UBQ6
I had a few snow plow CUCV's and that held up till they died and were scrapped. 10+ years. Good Luck. Metal preparation is 99% of the job. The top coat makes the job look good. But if improperly prepped nothing will last and hold up to time and the elements.
 

WWRD99

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Nice that’s a great find! Maybe one day if I’m still looking for parts I’ll have to take a road trip
He's at the Carlisle spring show if that helps the distance about 45 minutes...I know we're going...gotta keep the parts hoarding fest alive!

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WWRD99

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York Pa
On the inner fender aprons. The import ones work fine for many years. One thing. You can't just take a new import and install it. They are coated in wash primer and that has zero corrosion resistance. I have scuffed and primed them. I have scuffed and painted them. The best method I have discovered is to scuff prime and coat them with Rusfree undercoating. https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Rubberized-Undercoating-Material-RUS-1020F6/dp/B000Q6UBQ6
I had a few snow plow CUCV's and that held up till they died and were scrapped. 10+ years. Good Luck. Metal preparation is 99% of the job. The top coat makes the job look good. But if improperly prepped nothing will last and hold up to time and the elements.
That's no joke there about prep...it took a few tries to get the process right with the por15...bought a gallon of the soap and etching fluid from them...we had one set that he did and it completely pealed off in one big chunk...he was not happy...he sands and grinds them down to bare metal as much as possible then that stuff sticks like crazy...even tough to sand off...it is not uv resistant though so anything in the sun needs a coat of regular farmer paint over top which is thick like cold honey...I told him he can always take them out and paint them up every couple years if he wants...but should be good for a long time now...I'm gonna surprise him with a powder coated grill gaurd and bumpers in the matt black he wants...we have spares that he hasn't noticed are missing that should be down in another week. Thanks again for everything Rick.

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WWRD99

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Alright so this weekend we started the body mounts on the 1009...they are pretty simple to get the nuts off but getting the bolts to free up from the bushing sleeves was another issue...we ended up using the nut on the end of the bolt a few threads on and using the jack and half inch extensions to pump them up and eventually broke loose so we could get them out...so the 2 front bolts were rusted about half way through where there wasn't much left holding it on...the rear ones were not as bad but close, the tops were welded in too?? I found new grade 8 front bolts as they have a regular bolt head 4 1/2 inches long but the rear 4 are elongated carriage style and I can't seem to find those yet...He wants to keep it stock looking as much as possible so I'll keep hunting for those...we got one side done that took a bit then the other side we had apart in no time since we had a method to the madness figured out.

On another note...we had the batteries removed from the 1009 to replace the fender and liner they sat on...we decided to try out the slave cable and just jump start it and drive it in and mess with the batteries later...well...that doesn't work if the big resistor has been removed as there's no way to get 12 volts to to the rest of the truck...so it was nice to make sure the cable worked and sent all the volts to the blazer no problem...now I know why gp doesn't get these running that don't have batteries in them as they have a slave cable hooked up the their huge fork lift.

One last note about my 1101 trailer...I was reading the tm on it and found an interesting note in the first pages showing towing vehicles...hmmv...so I always thought the 1101 and 1102 were different in actual capacity...I was wrong as it says in that tm that both are physically the same, they rate them differently depending on what the towing capacity of the hmmv is towing it...learning that I'm glad I got the 1101 and not paid more for the 1102 I was looking at!

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cucvrus

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I bought the M1102 for the legal towing weight of the manufacturer. I wanted the 4200 GVW. That is also what the generator trailers are rated at. That little nomenclature tag was worth the legal part of it. I would not want to find out after the fact that I was involved in an accident with a trailer that was overloaded. Like putting 1-ton axles under an M1009. It still is only a 6400 lb GVW vehicle. No matter what the springs are rated getting the vehicle GVWR changed is a nightmare. And on your cab mount bolts. New 1/2 carriage bolts work great. I have been there many times changing cab mounts. The Energy Suspension is the best way to go. Even the Red one's work when they are FREEBIES. Be Safe.
 

WWRD99

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York Pa
I bought the M1102 for the legal towing weight of the manufacturer. I wanted the 4200 GVW. That is also what the generator trailers are rated at. That little nomenclature tag was worth the legal part of it. I would not want to find out after the fact that I was involved in an accident with a trailer that was overloaded. Like putting 1-ton axles under an M1009. It still is only a 6400 lb GVW vehicle. No matter what the springs are rated getting the vehicle GVWR changed is a nightmare. And on your cab mount bolts. New 1/2 carriage bolts work great. I have been there many times changing cab mounts. The Energy Suspension is the best way to go. Even the Red one's work when they are FREEBIES. Be Safe.
Oh ok so you use regular carriage style bolts without the deep square and it's ok...I can get those easy!! The energy suspension parts fit perfectly...he wanted the black color though not red...everything has to match. As far as that trailer thing, I won't be loading it up that much since the 1028 isn't rated to pull more as well as the 1009 either...they don't have the power anyhow...the 1102 brings a good bit more money though so that was my thought on it...the extra 800 lbs isn't worth the extra money to me...thinking of turning it into a camper anyhow. I did find it interesting as to why they did that it does make sense...the 998 is essentially a 1008 with independent suspension...power and drive train otherwise the same in the early years.
 

WWRD99

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Got a few of these solar pulse charger things the other day...finally found a spot of the day it's not raining...installed one on the truck and was pretty easy...of course it started raining again when I was cutting the ends off the zip ties so I can't see if flash much yet. I used stainless bolts but plastic nuts and spacers...the nuts get tight and will hold without getting to tight...I'm going to put a plug on it so I can turn it off if need be too.
Funny story, while getting the parts to install this a lady came in the store and asked who had the big green truck outside...I laughed and said if you hit it I wouldn't know...well...she did...unfortunately for her she found the rear corner of the back bumper...ripped up the drivers side of a fairly new Acura MDX...I felt bad but she didn't seem to care about it saying she has a friend that's a mechanic who can touch it up. That's gonna be one heck of a mechanic.


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WWRD99

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Been way to long since I've updated on the 1009...but it's been painted and all new seals installed...kid got his license last week so now he's driving it everyday. Had a fail in alternator 1 and it didn't charge the battery. I thought it was just low on water and acid, which it was, but it turned out to be a burned out printed board. I bought a cab from a 1008 a few months ago that had everything in it so I swapped out its printed board so now it works. Fun note with the jacket he found on ebay from a random second hand store in Michigan. It looks to be a 80s baseball jacket with the iron on patch. Anyone see one of these before? He wears it a bunch!


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WWRD99

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So the repair for the board worked great but the batteries did not last much more than a week before they would not hold a charge anymore overnight, cold kicked the bucket...so 2 new 6TM batteries went in! Nice having the Carlisle military stuff around with a distributor there for them...pricing out good group 31s were more than the 6tm's. On the repair note the radiator got replaced with a NOS 4 core copper monster...gotta love surplus stores...fresh Goodyear silicone heater core hoses, 195 thermostat, 1000 watt block heater popped in while the coolant was out too. Son did everything but drill out the freeze plug...he was nervous about that. Truck got a 230 Gichner shelter!! So much goin on there too.


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WWRD99

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Block heater is really working. It is a 1000 watt freeze plug style and has been plugged in since 9 pm...it's 6am for these pics...it was plugged in after driving it so it was, in theory, at least 195 degrees...so it dropped 100 degrees but is holding 93 degrees all over the engine. I'm using a 12-2 extension cord that is 75 feet long and is not warm at all. I'll try another test tonight and not plug it in till morning and see how long it takes to heat up...I'm not sure if it's worth having it plugged in all night or maybe just a few hours before driving??!! Will have to weigh that next.


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ssdvc

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Curious as to the cost of the 6TM Batteries and the radiator. I had my radiator rebuilt (vs a new purchase). I found one Spector B850, but they wanted $1,790 for it. I paid $1000 to have my old one rebuilt (4 core, copper and brass).
 

WWRD99

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York Pa
Curious as to the cost of the 6TM Batteries and the radiator. I had my radiator rebuilt (vs a new purchase). I found one Spector B850, but they wanted $1,790 for it. I paid $1000 to have my old one rebuilt (4 core, copper and brass).
I got the radiator for 350 and it still had the plugs screwed into the oil and transmission cooler ports...dang good deal...I took it to a rad shop and they fixed up the tank fittings since they were dented up some from the military surplus...still had cardboard on it plus the tag...had it air checked and such just to make sure...the batteries were 420 for the pair after tax and core trade in...expensive week but it could have been worse!! It really is nuts what batteries are going for if you pay the multiple people in the trough to get them...finding that distributor by the base is one I won't forget...I'd bet most have a battery guy like that around most of them.

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