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CUCV2/CUCV-II Owners, post pics and info of your truck

hrbergeron

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Took my CUCVII out to a local living history event. My vehicle was the newest one there by about 50 years :ROFLMAO:
 

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hrbergeron

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CUCV III Tahoe sold today on GSA. 9 grand. Add 1000 tax and registration, 1000 for needed tires, 1000 for paint, 500 for two batteries. Around 13K to get on the road. Ouch.

Good price, I paid more for both of my CUCVIIs and one was in worse condition than that CUCVIII. If I didn't have so many projects I would've bought it myself.
 

fuzzytoaster

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Fort Worth, Texas
CUCV III Tahoe sold today on GSA. 9 grand. Add 1000 tax and registration, 1000 for needed tires, 1000 for paint, 500 for two batteries. Around 13K to get on the road. Ouch.
I watched it and let it roll. It makes me feel a lot better about my CUCVII purchase. On that note the M1009 in Springtown brought $7050 today so the market was thirsty.
 

Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
CUCV III Tahoe sold today on GSA. 9 grand. Add 1000 tax and registration, 1000 for needed tires, 1000 for paint, 500 for two batteries. Around 13K to get on the road. Ouch.
Ouch, for sure.

But get this:

- I got a buddy who lives down in Nashville

- A big time attorney (used to be U.S. attorny for TN)

- He spent that amount (+/-) for a bicycle (he's one of those gung-ho spandex road-racing bife riders)

Go figure.
 

fuzzytoaster

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Fort Worth, Texas
My 1999 CUCVII arrived and I've been doing triage on her. The previous owner lost the ignition key so I hired a locksmith to crack it. He spent an hour before asking permission to drill the tumbler as the OEM code on the door wasn't working for the ignition. After extracting it he said the tumbler had been replaced before as it was an aftermarket part so he was shooting in the dark. It was owned by a Police Department so maybe they did it but who knows. Irritating but only like a kid that had to set his present aside to play with it later at Christmas.

Engine looks intact and most of the interior is in good shape. My dash isn't cracked so that's a win. The glovebox was removed and has gone MIA since auction, it looks like they tapped in there for power for the CB radio. Passenger door internals are partially disassembled. Missing blower fan unit under the dash. Pintle is missing along with what I assume was the 12v trailer wire connector. The rear drive shaft is bent and cracked half way through by a forklift. The driver door panel caught something sharp (like a forklift) and the tailgate are done for. The rear left bumper took a bump during unloading too. The main body panels, hood, roof, etc are in good shape so I'm thankful for that.

I was on the phone with NDT, as he has a civilian truck identical to this, so we went over it to familiarize myself. It's odd knowing this truck was technically civilian at one brief point before they pulled it to fill Uncle Sam's order. It has a civilian trailer receiver on the front and rear of the truck with stenciling for safely operating it. I can only guestimate by the color, setup, low miles, etc it was attached to an aviation unit. No unit markings exist that I've seen, hidden or apparent.

I've got an ignition tumbler on order as well as a PDM relocation kit. The police chief said it would start, run, and die in that order and it was due to the injection pump harness. I just got the 1st battery off the charger and will see if she wants to breathe fire here in a bit after the rain passes. I hope the PMD isn't toast. The second battery was fully charged and both may still be under warranty. I know this isn't the "What have you done to your CUCVII today?" thread but I plan to post here.
 

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fuzzytoaster

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Update 1. Batteries are "good" enough to not be considered replaceable by warranty. They've got 630 CCA out of the advertised 800 but it's 73F here so it should have been cranking near 1000 CCA. They have 8 months left of warranty and I bet the Texas summer heat will cook them. They gave the engine about 8 cranks before they tapped out so they may not even last that long. Oh no..! :p

I've got her on a slave off my M10A charging now. I do have the theft light blinking when waiting for the glowplugs to warm up. It does go away when cranking though. She lost fuel prime and after some cranking she hits but for a split second before dying. I can feel it's not lack of fuel but possibly the real issue of why she "cranks, runs, and dies" which may be security related. Just a working theory with the aftermarket ignition tumbler, seeing how she behaves, and some light googling while trying to stay out of the rain.

Update 2: I was able to play and jimmy the old tumbler to get her to fire off. At first it was just as the Chief described with the start, run, and shut off. It got better after a few tries until she stayed running. The security lock came back on after I removed the tumbler to kill it so hopefully a new one keyed appropriately will solve that issue. The gear selector isn't responding and is likely disconnected which will be the next task when the rain stops.

The engine sounds good and alternators are charging. Radio works but of course no blower so no way to test the A/C or heat. There is something funky going on with the tach as it only works when the dash lights are on.


 
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Monkeyboyarmy

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The tach signal is generated from the alternator. One alternator for 12 volt and a 12 to 24 converter for the top battery. Possibly a bad connection or a bad signal from the alt. Looks like it is back feeding somehow. Blower motor relay is behind the glove box. Common culprit if you have no power down to the motor.
 

fuzzytoaster

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Fort Worth, Texas
The tach signal is generated from the alternator. One alternator for 12 volt and a 12 to 24 converter for the top battery. Possibly a bad connection or a bad signal from the alt. Looks like it is back feeding somehow. Blower motor relay is behind the glove box. Common culprit if you have no power down to the motor.
I'll check the alternators and leads, I'm sure they're due to be brushed for corrosion control. As for the blower it's missing completely. There's a single purple wire hanging down near the empty housing that may be the hot for it. I'm still triaging main components.

Today I rolled out the MKT rubber and crawled up under to see the gear selector detached from the transmission. I reconnected and had Reverse and Drive. Putting it into park sometimes causes a faint grinding but it seems to be a calibration issue for the shifter. I dropped the rear shaft, which was halfway cracked through, to get some quotes to retube it or replace it as a whole. I'll do the front after I get the rear in so I can move it around in the mean time. So far she's been happy to run.
 

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Rutjes

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Amersfoort, The Netherlands
I've got an ignition tumbler on order as well as a PDM relocation kit. The police chief said it would start, run, and die in that order and it was due to the injection pump harness. I just got the 1st battery off the charger and will see if she wants to breathe fire here in a bit after the rain passes. I hope the PMD isn't toast.
By the time I bought my K1500 I had read about failing PMDs A LOT. Figured it wouldn't happen to me though. Sure did, shortly after. Got an extension harness and relocated the PMD to inside the front bumper.

I now keep a spare PMD in the glove box. I can highly recommend you to do so as well. If the PMD ever fails on you, you'll be able to continue your trip in a matter of minutes.
 

fuzzytoaster

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Fort Worth, Texas
That's one fine motor pool you got there, fuzzytoaster:

- How long have you been stocking up the "pantry"?!
2009 was my first MV purchase and it was all down hill from there. SS members are welcome to visit. :beer:

By the time I bought my K1500 I had read about failing PMDs A LOT. Figured it wouldn't happen to me though. Sure did, shortly after. Got an extension harness and relocated the PMD to inside the front bumper.

I now keep a spare PMD in the glove box. I can highly recommend you to do so as well. If the PMD ever fails on you, you'll be able to continue your trip in a matter of minutes.
The PMD harness extension is already on order. I've not found enough research to decide on which PMD to buy yeteven as a back up. I know it will happen eventually if it's not already on the ropes (thanks Murphy). Any recommendations? I'm monitoring the gauges, looking for leaks, etc. right now so I have to put her to some use instead of idling all day. As of now I have the rear shaft out and have been using her around my motor pool to ferry supplies and jump equipment. She has shut off on me once or twice after a cold start so I have my suspicions. I'm not ready to take her on the road just yet to see how she performs.

My neighbor does body work and restoration and just about ate his hat when I rolled the truck up to his bay door. He's 0 for 2 on 6.5L Turbo civilian trucks but he agreed to do the body work and get her back to close to factory shape. I need to source a driver door and tailgate before he'll begin. Also, I need to decide on a color which is the hardest part! :doh: I'm stuck between the current blue/gray (color source/code anyone?) or 383 Green.
 

fuzzytoaster

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Fort Worth, Texas
A long over due update. She has been sitting at a friend's body shop for nearly a year waiting for some love. I sourced a tailgate and other parts to make her whole again. The body work is a WIP and she will go CARC 383 green and later camo if I get the time. The body work almost passes for urban camo. Ha!
 

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