Dangerous Situation Today With My M1009

[rnd-motorsports]

When you go to buy lockouts you will be better to buy the premium hubs if possible. Ones with 3/4 or 1 turn better then the 1/4 turn. Glad nobody got hurt that could have been a bad trip.

 

[porkysplace]

There is a wire ring inside the hub you need to remove ,look at the yellow circles
small screwdrivers or dental pick type tools work good they suck the first time you do it.

 

[niferous]

Ok this may be impossible but I thought I would ask. I recently located a Corporate 14 semi floating rear axle. I know it's not a full floater but the price was right.. FREE! An uncle had an 85 3/4 ton Chevrolet just sitting out in a field collecting rust and he said if I could get it off it was mine. Me and my brother lifted the back end with a tractor and he used a torch to cut it free.

ANYway so I have the axle that is in good shape for the rear axle of my truck. Now if I'm not mistaken the front axle is a Dana 44 which also came in 3/4 ton trucks and Suburbans right? So is the difference between my Dana 44 and one of those just the spindles? I mean I'm having to buy a new spindle and everything already right? The reason I'm wanting to go 8 lug is that I have a 3/4 ton Suburban 4x4 and a trailer that takes Chevy 8-lug wheels and I'd like to have commonality between all three. Plus I don't like the gearing in my CUCV and the axle I got out of the field has 3:73 gears. I'm thinking if there is a way I can use that rear axle with a good locker added, and then re-gear my front end and run 8 lug wheels to match the back I'll save myself a lot of money.

Keep in mind I'm not looking to do any heavy off-roading. I like the idea of having a heavy duty rear-end but my real desire as I stated before is commonality, and the better (for me) gear ratio. Plus I'm learning my way around suspensions and this would probably be a good way for me to learn.

So what say you? Is this possible? I'm not wanting to throw money at an axle that I don't truly want but if I can turn it into an axle I want then that will work.

 

[wikallen]

You may want to teach your wife to pump the brakes if they go to the floor.

For normal street driving the 14bolt would be overkill, and more work to switch over then to repair you bearing and spindle. Same goes for the lockouts, no heavy off roading, any lockout will work for you you.

 

[WARWAG]

The Blazers had Corporate 10 bolts axles front and back.

 

[WARWAG]

Just fix what you have. Axle swaps would be alot more work.

 

[Ghost2012]

There are three retaining rings. Two on the axle shaft, and the one that Porky pointed out that I was refering to earlier.

Changing to an 8 lug f/r is better. Two things to consider, you may need a new rear drive shaft and if I remember correctly... you are correct. Everything from the spindle out needs to be done as one unit.

Good luck and post more pictures.

 

[niferous]

OK I'll let the Corp 14 sit for now.

SO I just got off the outer ring that everyone was telling me to remove. The gear thinger slid out after that but I'm not sure of my next step. The manual says remove some nut but I don't see one. Video below.

YouTube - CUCV front axle bearing rebuild question

 

[WARWAG]

I believe that nut is pretty ground up! If so then you will need to somehow get it off. start with some chisles ect. and a ball peen hammer. Wear some eye protection for sure! That spindle must be toast. Take your time since this is going to take awhile. Dont get mad or frustrated. Just know its gonna take some serious work to get it off. You will see what is working and whats not.

 

[niferous]

Oh so that's/was the nut huh? No wonder the instructions I was reading didn't make sense!

Where can I get a new spindle? I looked on O'Reilly's website and couldn't find one.

 

[Ghost2012]

No, that's not the nut. It's the inner hub spline gear.

THAT gear needs to come off in order to access the nut BEHIND the chewed up gear.

Did you get the little split washer thing (mine was black off the stub shaft? (Video is too grainy for my eyes)

If so... grab the HUB and PULL!

Make sure that little split ring thing is off first.

I'm working on a source for your spindle now.

Let me know how that goes.

 

[Ghost2012]

Okay, per my notes:

You're going to need a FOUR tooth spindle nut socket... try... Oreillys P/N: W1271

I'll PM you the source on the spindle. They have free shipping.

 

[K10A]

If that 14 bolt is semi float there are 6 lug shafts available.

 

[acmunro]

Too bad your not a little closer. I have a complete axle from my one M1009. It would have all the parts you need. I'm glad no one got hurt.

 

[wikallen]

Get the rest of the lockout off the axle then you should see the nut. I could not tell by the video but either you have a snap ring on the tip of the axle holding that inner spline on, or the teeth of the axle are messed up, preventing you from sliding it off the axle. Clean the edge of that axle off so you can see what you are dealing with. If no snap ring there, then get behind that gear with a couple of long screw drivers and pry it off.

 

[porkysplace]

Once you get this fixed it sounds like you need to do a complete PM and inspection Of the whole truck before putting back on the road.

 

[niferous]

I didn't get to do any work on the truck today as I was at a Boy Scout event up at the church. I will probably work on tomorrow.

However in a few minutes I'll go run and take some HD pictures so you guys can see what I'm looking at a little better.

 

[Ghost2012]

I didn't get to do any work on the truck today as I was at a Boy Scout event up at the church. I will probably work on tomorrow.

However in a few minutes I'll go run and take some HD pictures so you guys can see what I'm looking at a little better.

Can you light up the spines on the stub shaft? That will tell me what I need to know.

 

[niferous]

As promised here is the picture of the inside. I hope this is a better picture that helps.

Also the sleeve that all this stuff is in should be separating from the rotor and coming off at this point right?

 

[porkysplace]

It looks like the snap ring on the axel is gone ,but remnants of the lockout remain.You may have to pry out on whats left of the lockout while taping the axel in , unless it welded itself to the axel . This may turn into chisel project to remove whats left of the lockout . other than the axel itself there is noyhing your going to hurt. But the remaineder of the lockout has to be removed to get at the wheel bearing nuts .