Dangerous Situation Today With My M1009

[OddballJ]

okay, so I essentially had the exact same problem as niferous about 2 months ago, had my truck sit in the shop for ages with nothing done, and finally got to work on it a few days ago. After much cursing, 2 bent gear pullers, and a great deal of consultation with this thread, I have torn down the hub and need to know where to go from here. And, I came prepared with questions!

Should I fully replace or simply service the other side?
What extent do the brakes need to be worked on?
is there anything else I should be replacing at this point?

Would it be cheaper (or at least within $100) to replace everything with that GI front axle posted above? total cost shipped to my door would be $540 for that.
Is that axle as good as a Dana 44? My usage is 90% clean paved road, 10% snow or trail.
What else would I have to buy in addition to that axle?

If you can answer one or all of those questions it would help me out a bundle

 

[Ghost2012]

okay, so I essentially had the exact same problem as niferous about 2 months ago, had my truck sit in the shop for ages with nothing done, and finally got to work on it a few days ago. After much cursing, 2 bent gear pullers, and a great deal of consultation with this thread, I have torn down the hub and need to know where to go from here. And, I came prepared with questions!

Should I fully replace or simply service the other side?
What extent do the brakes need to be worked on?
is there anything else I should be replacing at this point?

Would it be cheaper (or at least within $100) to replace everything with that GI front axle posted above? total cost shipped to my door would be $540 for that.
Is that axle as good as a Dana 44? My usage is 90% clean paved road, 10% snow or trail.
What else would I have to buy in addition to that axle?

If you can answer one or all of those questions it would help me out a bundle

Service the other side if possible Replace if necessary or worn. No reason to spend money if you don't need to.

I can't answer the brake question. Depends on a bunch of factors, when they were last serviced, wear, rust, warping, etc.

Check belts, hoses, tie rod ends, u-joints, buy new seals.

As for your replacing question, what all are you replacing??? I know most of the prices off the top of my head but it seems if all you are doing is greasing the hubs and replacing a bearing/spindle that won't get you to $540 plus special service tools.

The 10-bolt is fine for 90/10 use. I used one 50/50 in Idaho with 35 inch tires and did some pretty hard core stuff. I'll eventually snap something important... but on a stock truck that doesn't tow they'refine. The D-44 uses some of the same parts (IIRC)

In addition to buying a new axle, you'll also need tie rod pullers, possibly spring/alignment shims, hubs (IIRC new axles are locking hub less)

Any other questions, feel free to ask.

 

[OddballJ]

honestly I wasn't sure what I was going to need to replace, but if I needed to/should replace the entire bearing and spindle assembly on both sides, that was looking to be 150-200, plus brake calipers and possibly rotors, wasn't sure about the knuckle and the like, plus a set of locking hubs I figured the total was going to come out around $300 to $400.
If I replaced the entire axle I could potentially sell the old 44 and thought it might come out even. If, however, it would be easier/cheaper to keep what I have, and still be safe of the road, I would much rather do that.

 

[Ghost2012]

honestly I wasn't sure what I was going to need to replace, but if I needed to/should replace the entire bearing and spindle assembly on both sides, that was looking to be 150-200, plus brake calipers and possibly rotors, wasn't sure about the knuckle and the like, plus a set of locking hubs I figured the total was going to come out around $300 to $400.
If I replaced the entire axle I could potentially sell the old 44 and thought it might come out even. If, however, it would be easier/cheaper to keep what I have, and still be safe of the road, I would much rather do that.

The knuckle should be fine. I've seen them break/get destroyed, but usually only after the rest of the axle is toast. You might want to check the ball joints too.

You have a Dana 44 under your 1009??

A new axle might be the way to go depending on how shot everything is. I would seriously look at the new axle and new premium hubs.

 

[dburd72]

You can go to any Gm dealer and ask the parts dept. for a parts diagram and see what you need for the hub it will also give you a clue how it all goes together . Best of luck

 

[OddballJ]

...I'm not entirely sure what I was thinking. this past semester really fried my brain I guess. So far as I know I have the stock set up on my 1009. I'll try to get a camera, take some pictures, and figure out exactly what I should be replacing. Thanks again

 

[niferous]

Sorry I haven't been able to post in a while guys. I have been busy with a new job and this last weekend was my anniversary so I didn't have a chance to work on the truck until just today.

Anyhow today I went ahead and started tearing into the driver's side of the truck to figure out what a hub that is in good working order looks like. Well luckily there was nothing wrong on that side and it came apart nice and easy. All the seals, the bearing, and all look good. So after taking it apart I just need a few parts that I can't find in the TM parts manual or online. The main one right now being the seal that goes at the end of the axle tube. The one the axle itself passes through and keeps mud, water, etc out of the axle tube. I took a snapshot of the parts TM and have pointed out where the seal goes so you guys can hopefully tell me where to get one or a part number. The TM does not list one.

 

[mkcoen]

I took a snapshot of the parts TM and have pointed out where the seal goes so you guys can hopefully tell me where to get one or a part number. The TM does not list one.

I would think any GM dealer. They might not have it on the shelves (although I'm willing to bet they do) but should be able to order one in a day or 2. Other than that it should be a common enough item for NAPA to have or get it.

 

[Ghost2012]

I would think any GM dealer. They might not have it on the shelves (although I'm willing to bet they do) but should be able to order one in a day or 2. Other than that it should be a common enough item for NAPA to have or get it.

This:

Re: GM 10 Bolt Front Axle Seals
Just did this the other day.....

Drain diff fluid. While doing this pull shafts out. Pull carrier out, taking care to note placement and orientation of bearing caps (they have to go back in the same place in the same direction). You will see the seals just inside the axle tubes. Pry the seals out noting the orientation of the spring (towards or away from the oil, I forget)and the depth of the seal.

Put a light bead of silicone around the edge of the new seal and tap it in with a hammer- see note below. Clean up your axle shafts and lube the part that comes in contact with the new seal with gear oil. Careful to insert and your done. Might think about doing your bearings while you are at it.


note- I put my seals in with a long straight stick (broom stick with no broom on it) and a socket roughly the correct size of the seal (metal part). I get it started by putting the seal in place (passenger side) and tap it lightly with the side of the hammer because there isnt alot of room inside the diff. Then I go to the opposite side (driver side) knuckle, insert the stick thru the diff, lay down in front of the diff, place the socket on the seal, place the stick on the socket, hold it in place with my foot, get up, hammer passenger side seal in place from the drivers side knuckle, thru the diff. Its backyard, but it gets the job done.

if anyone knows a better, cheaper, easier way, I am interested.

 

[OddballJ]

My inner spindle nut is stuck.
I bought an OEM 25072, which worked great to get the first part of that spindle nut off, but now there's a 6 slotted piece behind that that just won't budge. the 25072 is a little too big, so I went to advanced and they rented me a 5 piece spindle nut socket set. There's a socket in there that fits much better, but even after heating the nut and literally standing on a 3.5' breaker bar, it won't budge. Am I missing something? Like, maybe they welded those things onto the 85's, or they're threaded backwards, or something? I'm getting really frustrated and mouse died in the dash of my other car...
I have pictures, I just can't get them from the camera to the computer right now. If I'm still stuck later I'll make more of an effort to do that.

 

[Ghost2012]

My inner spindle nut is stuck.
I bought an OEM 25072, which worked great to get the first part of that spindle nut off, but now there's a 6 slotted piece behind that that just won't budge. the 25072 is a little too big, so I went to advanced and they rented me a 5 piece spindle nut socket set. There's a socket in there that fits much better, but even after heating the nut and literally standing on a 3.5' breaker bar, it won't budge. Am I missing something? Like, maybe they welded those things onto the 85's, or they're threaded backwards, or something? I'm getting really frustrated and mouse died in the dash of my other car...
I have pictures, I just can't get them from the camera to the computer right now. If I'm still stuck later I'll make more of an effort to do that.

Sounds like it's heat/rust seized... :/

You're in for a **** of a lot of work. Post pictures and I'll try to advise you better.

 

[OddballJ]

Sounds like it's heat/rust seized... :/

You're in for a **** of a lot of work. Post pictures and I'll try to advise you better.

We huh...That's not what I was hoping to hear.

First picture should be the piece that I took off. Second is what's left of the passenger side front wheel assembly, and the third is the same directly from the side.
any help would be awesome.

 

[Ghost2012]

Here's what I would do...

Find a HIGH speed dremel and some cutting oil...
Douse spindle with oil
Place fire extinguisher nearby
Notch stuck nut with dremel on BOTH SIDES!
Bust in half with cold chisel and BFH.
Check spindle for heat damage and concentricy sp* with a micrometer,

Good luck.

 

[OddballJ]

Here's what I would do...

Find a HIGH speed dremel and some cutting oil...
Douse spindle with oil
Place fire extinguisher nearby
Notch stuck nut with dremel on BOTH SIDES!
Bust in half with cold chisel and BFH.
Check spindle for heat damage and concentricy sp* with a micrometer,

Good luck.

Sounds like a good plan to me, but here are a few issues:
1. I don't have a high speed cutter.
2. I don't have a chisel
3. I don't have a micrometer
None of those are huge issues, but I'm wondering if just replacing the entire front axle with the one posted earlier from colemans might be cheaper..
Assuming I bugger something up on that spindle, what am I looking at for a replacement cost?
Total cost of the new axle would be $540 to my door.

Thanks again for all the help Ghost (and others). One of these days I'm going to drive that truck again...

 

[FMJ]

Sorry I haven't been able to post in a while guys. I have been busy with a new job and this last weekend was my anniversary so I didn't have a chance to work on the truck until just today.

Anyhow today I went ahead and started tearing into the driver's side of the truck to figure out what a hub that is in good working order looks like. Well luckily there was nothing wrong on that side and it came apart nice and easy. All the seals, the bearing, and all look good. So after taking it apart I just need a few parts that I can't find in the TM parts manual or online. The main one right now being the seal that goes at the end of the axle tube. The one the axle itself passes through and keeps mud, water, etc out of the axle tube. I took a snapshot of the parts TM and have pointed out where the seal goes so you guys can hopefully tell me where to get one or a part number. The TM does not list one.

Send me a pic like the one where you pointed out the seal indicating the parts you need for the hub, I have 3 or 4 10 bolt fronts in various stages of cannibalization I'll mail them to you.

 

[FMJ]

Yes, free.

 

[ken]

Go to fourwheel parts on westhimer. It's not too far from HWY 6. They probally have everything you will need in stock. If not, they can get it for you. If it's too much. PM me i have a few used axles with everything you need.

 

[Ghost2012]

Sounds like a good plan to me, but here are a few issues:
1. I don't have a high speed cutter.
2. I don't have a chisel
3. I don't have a micrometer
None of those are huge issues, but I'm wondering if just replacing the entire front axle with the one posted earlier from colemans might be cheaper..
Assuming I bugger something up on that spindle, what am I looking at for a replacement cost?
Total cost of the new axle would be $540 to my door.

Thanks again for all the help Ghost (and others). One of these days I'm going to drive that truck again...

1. Harbor Freight or Northern should have one. A steady hand is the big issue ($20)
2. Same as above ($5)
3. You can use a NEW bearing race as a guide along with a set of feeler gauges or if you don't have those a business card ($

Most of the above is easy to find/purchase. I don't think many of us set out with every tool we needed... we just bought them as jobs showed up that required JUST that certain tool. ****, my Grandpa is 83 and he's always finding something new that he needs

I would say replace:

Spindle ($110)
Seals ($9)
Bearing packs ($10-20)
Bearing grease ($5)
Hub set ($150)

I would look into the new axle if you have the time/money to replace it. If not, I would suggest accepting the offer of one our fellow SSs and putting a used part on. If you can wait a couple of months I too will have a front end for cheap as I have my Dana 60F DRW going in the front of my 1009...

 

[niferous]

Send me a pic like the one where you pointed out the seal indicating the parts you need for the hub, I have 3 or 4 10 bolt fronts in various stages of cannibalization I'll mail them to you.

The seal is all I need now. I have all the parts for the hub. I finished taking apart the drivers side and it turns out that it is in need of a seal as well. I went ahead and gor u-joints for both front axles and I'm going to go ahead and replace those since I have them out.

Do you think you'll have that seal?

 

[lindyp38]

sorry, but i don't know what parts you would need. I've never taken apart a front axle.

I've got a question though - forgive my ignorance, but how often are we supposed to take these things apart, clean and grease them?

I'm generally religious about preventative maintenence. I've changed the fluids in the diffs of everything i've owned, and i replaced wheel bearings years and years ago on a trailer.. But i've never re-greased axle bearings on my trucks. I don't put them under water. Everything i've taken apart was still in good shape.

Your story has inspired me to pull all mine apart this summer and check them out. Thanks for the great thread.

i agree....those videos are great...keep taking them........i wish u were closer.......id love to assist u......