DarkSeas
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.Photos of the case broken down and what I found on the magnet.
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Photos after cleaning the case a couple days before (before teardown):
Before:
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After:
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And yes my fiancé convinced me we needed a new puppy. That's Willow. She likes to help. 4 month old dutch shepherd.
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Wow. What a difference it made - cleaning up the TC.
Looks like Willow was worn out. From all that helping
.Yeah man I'm really happy I took the time to get it right, I'm super proud to share how the case turned out after like 4 hours of scrubbing with brillo pads and some dawn.
Willow is definitely my little helper out on the tailgate. Just gotta remind her sometimes that brake clean will never taste good, no matter how exciting the can hiss sounds are. At least she can't speak english so she can't learn to repeat what I say at the truck back to her mom!
Are you missing the original battery trays? Hillbilly Wizard sells replacement ones if so and they come with the hold-downs as well.Borrowing a seal driver set today/tomorrow to drive some seals into the transfercase and put it back together. Bearings are in. Replaced all 120 needle bearings on the driven shaft, wasn't too bad.
Plan is to get the truck back together and drive her outta there within a month. Some stuff came up and she's gotta move.
Only issue I see is I've got a rotten inner-passenger fender and two sketchy battery setups. I can get an inner fender for around $45 off LMC, JEGS, Holley, Summit, etc. A ratchet strap might do in a pinch, but sourcing a battery tray that could fit on a fender replacement is proving difficult. Anybody else deal with this?
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Above: TM 20P for battery trays.
Below: All I can find are LH and RH versions of this, or used battery trays on ebay for like $130-250 a pop.
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I've got the original rear but it's in rough shape. I saw HBW had a front tray but I was gonna try and find a cheaper temporary alternative before I go spending $150+ on a used OEM replacement. At the moment the front tray would be useless until I replace that inner fender, the current one would give the front tray nothing to stand on hahaAre you missing the original battery trays? Hillbilly Wizard sells replacement ones if so and they come with the hold-downs as well.
Replacement fender liners are still the same shape as original so the battery trays will fit fine. All you'll have to do is drill a couple new holes in the fender liner (as they aren't pre-drilled) for the bottom bolts that mount to them. I went with LMC as shipping seemed reasonable.
I will warm her back up and idle it tonight and check again. It did look like it was seeping around the pan gasket but since it's been home there hasn't been a single drop in the parking lot. I've also got plenty of ATF so topping her off wouldn't cost me anything but timeYou might check your ATF level again. My transmission has the undercarriage corrosion prevention feature, so I have to top it up periodically. It starts behaving like what you described when it's low.
You should have seen it when I first bought it, it had a dog box in the bed. The 8ft whip antenna with the CB is still functioning, I was trying to talk to the Walmart truck drivers last night. The toolbox is also pretty slick, it's got two sets of handles. The bottom handles open the toolbox lid and the top handles drop the foam gun shelf.Man, I haven't seen a rear window gun rack since my grandfather was alive. All your truck's missing is one of those "REDNECK" windshield banners they sold at AutoZone in the '90s. Anyway, my truck pushes the ATF out through the transfer case while it's running and the propeller shaft slings it as I drive. Mine doesn't drip ATF when it's parked either. Just engine oil as far as I can tell.
You should have seen it when I first bought it, it had a dog box in the bed. The 8ft whip antenna with the CB is still functioning, I was trying to talk to the Walmart truck drivers last night. The toolbox is also pretty slick, it's got two sets of handles. The bottom handles open the toolbox lid and the top handles drop the foam gun shelf.Man, I haven't seen a rear window gun rack since my grandfather was alive. All your truck's missing is one of those "REDNECK" windshield banners they sold at AutoZone in the '90s. Anyway, my truck pushes the ATF out through the transfer case while it's running and the propeller shaft slings it as I drive. Mine doesn't drip ATF when it's parked either. Just engine oil as far as I can tell.
I have a hard time imagining a bone-dry undercarriage on a CUCV, but that's great news. I overfill mine a little from time to time when I'm topping it off, and it causes hard and late shifting. It's a self-solving problem in my case, but unless you've got an evacuation pump with a long tube, it would be a big hassle for you to get some fluid back out, so just go very little at a time.
Now I'm no transmission tech. They're voodoo to me. That said, I understand there's an internal seal on the torque converter, and if it leaks, the converter drains into the transmission case while the truck is shut off. It can't move the truck properly unless it's full. If that's going on with your truck, you'll find that short of replacing that seal, you can just let it idle for a minute or two before putting it in gear and the torque converter should be full and operating normally. If the throttle is all noise and no go when you first start the truck, but it gets better as it runs, that's probably what's going on. My '69 C10 was like that and my M1009 is the same.
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