Did I use the wrong coolant?

[Mogman]

Inorganic vs Organic Coolant - What's The Difference? | GMB Blog

What's The Difference Between Inorganic And Organic Coolants? Find Out Here.

gmb.net

" you should avoid generic “all makes, all models, all colors” coolant like the plague. It’s likely that these coolants don’t have any good additives. Instead, they may rely on acid salt molecule coating and/or proprietary “universal” additives that provide little to no protection."

 

[diesel_dave]

View attachment 864715

Inorganic vs Organic Coolant - What's The Difference? | GMB Blog

What's The Difference Between Inorganic And Organic Coolants? Find Out Here.

gmb.net

" you should avoid generic “all makes, all models, all colors” coolant like the plague. It’s likely that these coolants don’t have any good additives. Instead, they may rely on acid salt molecule coating and/or proprietary “universal” additives that provide little to no protection."

Yuppp I read that last night. Really makes me want to flush out the Prestone stuff and use something else.

 

[Mogman]

Looks like I am going to use a HOAT antifreeze because of the aluminum radiator I am installing

 

[Mogman]

I just talked to Champion radiators, they said plain old green, recommended Prestone or Peak
They said definitely not Dexcool which is what I am running in the DuraVee, as I said it's ALWAYS something........
They said "Ethylene Glycol"

 

[Action]

From what ive been reading online, the big issue is when green and orange are mixed. It turns to sludge. Maybe some of one gets left behind when switching to the other. Or a new owner pours in a different one.
I may mix some this weekend in a bucket and see if anything happens.

 

[diesel_dave]

I just talked to Champion radiators, they said plain old green, recommended Prestone or Peak
They said definitely not Dexcool which is what I am running in the DuraVee, as I said it's ALWAYS something........
They said "Ethylene Glycol"

I'm going to go with either plain old green IAT coolant which seems to only be available in generic brands or use Zerex G05 which is an HOAT coolant that many people seem to swear by. The Zerex stuff seems to have a lot of the corrosion additives that would be beneficial in an iron block engine with aluminum components like the heater core. It's a little more pricey per gallon but may be worth it.

 

[blutow]

Jeeze, this stuff is mind twisting. I have 4 gallons of the "any make" preston coolant and a full set of replacement hoses sitting ready for swap. I'm starting to think I'm better off leaving in the 13 year old coolant (that looks perfect) rather than dooming my truck forever with new coolant. I know I need to change the old coolant out, but I really don't know which direction to go.

In my original web search, I find multiple sites saying that distilled water will ruin everything because of the ionic imbalance. I chalked that up to just another internet opinion, but the discussions in this thread are making me question everything again. It was so much simpler back in the day when you just read the product label, believed it, and moved on (good or bad).

 

[diesel_dave]

Jeeze, this stuff is mind twisting. I have 4 gallons of the "any make" preston coolant and a full set of replacement hoses sitting ready for swap. I'm starting to think I'm better off leaving in the 13 year old coolant (that looks perfect) rather than dooming my truck forever with new coolant. I know I need to change the old coolant out, but I really don't know which direction to go.

In my original web search, I find multiple sites saying that distilled water will ruin everything because of the ionic imbalance. I chalked that up to just another internet opinion, but the discussions in this thread are making me question everything again. It was so much simpler back in the day when you just read the product label, believed it, and moved on (good or bad).

Yes it is all extremely confusing for me too. I saw a few comments about distilled water but they are nonsense that are absurd from a chemistry stand-point. Heck, look at the ingredients for the 50/50 mixes at the store and you'll see the water that is used is distilled. One thing I'm pretty sure of now is that the universal type coolant is probably not what you want to use because it likely has less powerful corrosion inhibitors so as to increase compatibility with all the different types of coolants out there. That at least makes sense to me from a logical level. I wish I had thought about that before wasting $40 worth of coolant.

 

[juanprado]

Plastic tank aluminum radiators have been standard for 25 years plus. I would think any modern "approved" name brand anti freeze will be fine in our hmmwv's that is Plain old green regular formula will do the job. Don't get fixated on long life, extended drain interval, fancy this or that etc. Antifreeze like any fluid is best when changed on a regular interval more to remove contaminants than the actual breakdown of the formula. When I drained my HMMWV, I was astonished at the amount of brown mud that came out especially from the heater core. Not sure if the system had been open to contaminants or poor job of flushing/cleaning from original casting.

For folks with GM branded vehicles, dex cool has also been around for 25 years and does the job. Just don't mix dex cool with other formulas. All the original bugs when first introduced have long been addressed. I recall the Jello like mess of folks mixing dex cool and green when first introduced.

 

[simp5782]

The 6.2s won't be hurt by running a certain coolant even for a decent amount of time. If you have an engine with wet liners and use the wrong coolant you learn real quick cause you will be rebuilding an engine.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Stupid questions cost $5 each.

I've owned a bunch of them, I know what they are. I also know what "cavitation pitting" is...... don't ask!

 

[Maxjeep1]

Evans waterless coolant. Last the lifetime of the vehicle doesn’t corrode. I have used it 4 years now and have zero issues. Spendy but I’m sure it makes up for it by not replacing radiator and other parts.

 

[Mogman]

Evans waterless coolant. Last the lifetime of the vehicle doesn’t corrode. I have used it 4 years now and have zero issues. Spendy but I’m sure it makes up for it by not replacing radiator and other parts.

The only issue is that the Evans does not transfer heat as well as water, It's ALWAYS something
And of course the cooling system must be completely dry or use the prep fluid to "flush" it out at over $30 a gallon, so in the end it would cost $80 a gallon and I think the capacity is around 4 gal, you are right $320 is getting pretty pricey

 

[Maxjeep1]

The only issue is that the Evans does not transfer heat as well as water, It's ALWAYS something
And of course the cooling system must be completely dry or use the prep fluid to "flush" it out at over $30 a gallon, so in the end it would cost $80 a gallon and I think the capacity is around 4 gal, you are right $320 is getting pretty pricey

Yes it is expensive but it doesn’t get steam pockets either. I’m happy with it. Something that you could buy a few at a time until you make the switch. I opened mine up and ran a leaf blower thru it and did the same with the heater core and let it sit open for a few days and ran 1 gallon of prep thru the block. I was replacing my radiator and hoses so I didn’t have much to flush. Still think I have 1/2 gallon of prep and 2 gallons of coolant. I run normal coolant in my other stuff and it seems to work just fine.

 

[blutow]

I think the capacity is around 4 gal

Isn't capacity more like 6-7 gal? I thought it was 26 quarts (6.5 gal) ? That makes for a very expensive fluid change. I'm seeing the Evans stuff at around $50/gal, but that's nearly 10x the cost of regular antifreeze if you are using the concentrate and mixing with distilled water. I'm all for paying a premium to avoid future issues, but I can't stomach a $400 coolant change.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Isn't capacity more like 6-7 gal? I thought it was 26 quarts (6.5 gal) ? That makes for a very expensive fluid change. I'm seeing the Evans stuff at around $50/gal, but that's nearly 10x the cost of regular antifreeze if you are using the concentrate and mixing with distilled water. I'm all for paying a premium to avoid future issues, but I can't stomach a $400 coolant change.

It’s not for everyone that’s for sure. I’m not getting fancy lights or stereos and extras. It last the life of the vehicle and nothing will ever corrode. I believe it will better cool the rear cylinders because it will not get steam pockets. You have the potential to save some headaches down the road. Everyone gets to choose what to invest in. I only use it in a few vehicles That I can justify the cost. Normal coolant works just fine also. I don’t believe that it freezes at any temperature that we will experience.

 

[Mogman]

Isn't capacity more like 6-7 gal? I thought it was 26 quarts (6.5 gal) ? That makes for a very expensive fluid change. I'm seeing the Evans stuff at around $50/gal, but that's nearly 10x the cost of regular antifreeze if you are using the concentrate and mixing with distilled water. I'm all for paying a premium to avoid future issues, but I can't stomach a $400 coolant change.

You are probably right, 4 gals what I drained out, surly there was some trapped in the heater core and block

 

[diesel_dave]

So I finally made up my mind and bought some jugs of Zerex G05. I can't find anyone saying anything bad about it online and it actually seems to be pretty highly recommended for many similar applications. The icing on the cake was the back of the bottle actually says it is formulated for "Detroit Diesel" engines, among others (even windmills? lol). I will swap it out this weekend unless someone comes along and says "STOP! NO, YOU DUMMY! Don't use that for xyz reason."

 

[Mogman]

So I finally made up my mind and bought some jugs of Zerex G05. I can't find anyone saying anything bad about it online and it actually seems to be pretty highly recommended for many similar applications. The icing on the cake was the back of the bottle actually says it is formulated for "Detroit Diesel" engines, among others (even windmills? lol). I will swap it out this weekend unless someone comes along and says "STOP! NO, YOU DUMMY! Don't use that for xyz reason."

Well they are not talking about OUR Detroits, that is in the "heavy duty diesel" category, they are talking big truck diesels
Not saying it will not be fine, I thought I knew something about antifreeze turns out I don't..

 

[TOBASH]

I remember when life was simple, gasoline had lead, cigarettes were healthy, only pinko communists smoked marijuana, and antifreeze was just green antifreeze.

After reading all of this I, like several of the other posters here, am more confused now than ever and I have no idea what to choose.

“Where have you gone, Joe DiMaggio/Our nation turns its lonely eyes to you…”