therooster2001
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Next time I am up at the shop, I will do a walkthrough start and AC start, so you can see and hear it video.
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Next time I am up at the shop, I will do a walkthrough start and AC start, so you can see and hear it video.
Thanks for the tip. i will be sure to clean the inline filter,. But i been doing a little research and it looks like i just need the oil filter, batteries, antifreeze (after i reconnect the hose) and gas ( not a lot) and i should be good. I just don't know why they drained everything?I found the auction, Everything looks pretty good, nothing that I can see missing, barring the oil filter. 1500 hrs is nice and low too. Your AC is a bit different than mine, and you've got some undercoating or a recent paint job under the trailer. From the picts it looks nice. Those 60A 208 3Phase plugs are sort of odd, and depending on how you want to power the cabin, that might just require a swap out or some creative wiring. Those plugs get expensive quick. Good luck on the recovery. The trailers are wonderfully balanced, and fairly light. I can muscle mine around by myself in the garage (paved). At 17PSI those tires will be pretty low. If you're hauling with the HMWWV, pintle should line up, the 5-ton is too tall for it to be level, unless you turn over the pintle (easy with just one cotter pin). And if its already drained of fuel, make sure the valve is closed before filling. Mine leaks a tiny bit from the hose, and it has to be that valve, so don't go hog wild and put in 20 gallons, just to be sure you won't have a mess waiting. I have 10 gallons to go through before I can swap unless I want to drain again. And don't forget that inline filter.
It's right there:
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Yeah i ment diesel (Fule). Nevertheless, i will do all that when I get her home but in the meantime what are you using yours for? They why i see it, I'm missing the ECU duct work (I do have the covers) and the big piece i'm missingI'm sure you meant diesel. And Will recommends 10 gallons, as 5 is barely enough to get it going. And make sure it's drained all the way first. I put in 5 gallons, then drained as I hadn't and really wish I would have as instructed. When I did, it came out clean, but it might have had water in there. Jon and Will both had some that had lots of water in them, so it's more than probable.
I would get new fuel filter, oil filter, antifreeze (makes sure you know what's in there first). Mine came with "pink" half in there. The original batteries that came with it are Optima red, I got some used Optima's fairly cheap, but a few people reported using standard WallyWorld batteries. One of my battery tie downs was missing so fabbed them up with aluminum tubing, covered with heater hose just to be sure nothing grounds. It vibrates pretty good when not tied down.
They drain them for different reasons, but the most popular is when they travel by boat overseas. I think there are some law prohibiting them having fluids. It happened to several trucks that way too.
I powered it up yesterday to ensure my refrigerant charge was good, and to exercise it a bit. Also to get some decibel readings. Never went above 85 on the generator even standing right next to it.
Got it. Speaking of MKT's I use to have one but sold it and i which i didn't but Oh well. it was a MKT 90Yeah, I was lucky to get the ducts with mine. I can use the AC with my Base-X tent (it has the duct inputs in the tent), use it to cool my garage, and also we have an MKT, which gets pretty hot when cooking. So even though not efficient under an open tent, it's like having AC in a convertible with the top down. I could enclose the MKT sides, but that's weird with smoky things, and those diesel burners sometimes restart, and get all diesel-y. The generator is going to be used at festivals or in an emergency. Could use it to backfeed the house, but my house in the burbs in Colorado rarely has power issues. I can also use the whole rig to go camping in style and piss off the neighbors...
may I ask what the manual is... I cant find anything but the basic operation manual ..A new to me 2009 Hanco 20RFH33DWLP DRASH Shelter Transport Trailer, this is a Drash type generator and ECU combo. It has a Perkins engine that I believe model 404D-22T. Block tag indicates GP65664N and 740040T. Only a little over 300 hours.
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The problem is no fuel to injectors. Picture of the pump shows the fuel lines removed, no fuel from pump at all.
I get fuel from the vent on the injector pump when hand priming it. When testing the stop solenoid I see the plunger retract into the body of the solenoid- so I think this is working. I tried to remove the injector pump but was not able to get it out of the block enough to remove or even see the linkage for the fuel rack control- the pdf manual that I downloaded made it look easy. This injector pump is a cassette type. My thought is that the rack is stuck off. Any thoughts of where to go from here?
we did that..." pull the fuel solenoid".. what do you mean.."let the rack open"Manuals are in the tm upload section. If it wont fuel the injectors pull the fuel solenoid and let the rack open.
is there a detail disassembly of the injectors and that area.? cant find in the TM,s... I downloaded and printed the 2 TM's you posted...Its a variable fuel solenoid. Retracts to allow the fuel rail to open and then moves in and out to control engine speed depending on load. If you take the solenoid out the rack has a spring and will slide left into its open position allowing fuel flow to the injectors. There is a breaker on the back of the control box in the gen compartment. Make sure thats on.
Is there a detailed manual..? with exploded views..?YESIs the back breaker on?YES Make sure emergency stop is pulled out. Chances are you are not getting power to the fuel solenoid YES and theres nothing wrong with the ip or injectors. DONT KNOW WHERE THAT IS...In the control box with the gen on run does the governor have a light on?
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