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Drash/GET Perkins 20KW no fuel problem

shawnshumvee

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336
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Location
Janesville WI
Vacuum pump $50-120
Gauges $40-120
R407C (MAKE SURE ITS THAT REFRIGERANT, other stuff is more expensive.) - $160
Scale - $80-300

I did all of mine, with help, for the low marks above.

Or pay someone who has the skills - I bet they'd charge at least $500.
yeah thats the problem. The cost to get it charged. I do know that the system was reclaimed and thats all they did. it was fine before they drained everything so can't a guy just recharge it? If i can find someone . Around year everybody uses R22 i think it was?
 

therooster2001

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Colorado
Check your data plate. R22 is the older gas, and getting expensive. There are conversions, but I'm only Internet smart on it. And yes they can recharge, but they should vacuum it, it will assure you that there isn't a leak. That much R22 will put a hole in your wallet if you had to do it twice.
 

Suprman

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There is cheaper stuff called nu22. Would have to be vac'd down and loaded by an ac guy with a superheat meter the weight is a bit different I believe. If you had r22 you could vac it and just load by weight listed on the plate.
 

therooster2001

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Nice R407C - me too. I just checked pricing, it's going up. I think people have figured out that it's a good replacement for R22 as well. I got mine for $160, I believe Will scored $140. But anyway you cut it, gas is the most expensive part. Check with some local guys to see if they have partial tanks. I bought a 25lb, and have the old one sitting around now half full. Too bad you weren't closer.
 

shawnshumvee

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336
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Location
Janesville WI
I really can't fine anyone around here to refill this ECU. Apparently they are all scared of it it or something? And in wisconsin everybody uses R22 i guess.
 

Suprman

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Post on cl looking for someone to refill. If its an r407c unit I would buy it if the price was right. Takes a double pallet to move via freight.
 

shawnshumvee

Member
336
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Location
Janesville WI
Post on cl looking for someone to refill. If its an r407c unit I would buy it if the price was right. Takes a double pallet to move via freight.

It is R407c. It's 10 TONS and a 2010. But shoot me an offer. I wasn't serious (ok maybe a little) but if its a decent offer i'm up for that. This is the ECU only not the complete GETT.
 

therooster2001

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Shawn, we can help you refill it. I need to pay it forward from when the guys on here helped me. Super easy, unless it's got a leak. (no offense to the certified HVAC guys) You can probably rent / borrow the gear if you need to, and the gas is still cheap on the Internet. If you go for a commercial guy, any HVAC place can do it. It's just AC on wheels. Seriously, Jon talked me through it in less than 20 min. Just like any of our iron, we need to do a little bit more ourselves. Plus you learn something cool along the way. Ugh. No pun intended. I just saw that..
 

rsms

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largo,fl
I have a few friends in the HVAC business and all of them were a little hesitant about me buying NU22 to recharge my ECU's. I ended up using R22 as we still had a couple of bottles in stock. I'm wanting to think it was something about the oil viscosity but I could be mistaken on that. I will try to get a little more information but it might be worth doing a quick internet search prior to using it. I'm not an HVAC expert and I'm just passing along bits and pieces of what I was told by experts concerning my machines
 

therooster2001

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Colorado
From my previous Internet fu research, NU22B is a good replacement for R22, and claims it is compatible with any oil in compressor (mineral or Polyolester (POE)), where using R407C recommends adding POE on swaps. The old oils and R407C aren't really that compatible, hence the need for the POE with some of the new refrigerants. Newer or drop in compressors are generally manufacturered with POE. Some of the ECU's came with R407C (newish) and some have older R22. Check the plate and refill. There is still stuff around for pretty much any refrigerant, some require a HVAC license, the newer stuff is generally more accepted to be sold over Internet because it's way better than R22 (phased out in 2020) for the environment. I still see a lot of hesitation from HVAC people to switch gases regardless. I was lucky as mine was R407C, so no decisions for me.

rsms - me either, not a HVAC expert, just got really Internet smart on it lately. HVAC / refrigeration is a pretty in depth field.

What was the prognosis Shawn? Any luck with an HVAC guy? I am curious to see how my DIY stacks up to their prices.
 

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
From my previous Internet fu research, NU22B is a good replacement for R22, and claims it is compatible with any oil in compressor (mineral or Polyolester (POE)), where using R407C recommends adding POE on swaps. The old oils and R407C aren't really that compatible, hence the need for the POE with some of the new refrigerants. Newer or drop in compressors are generally manufacturered with POE. Some of the ECU's came with R407C (newish) and some have older R22. Check the plate and refill. There is still stuff around for pretty much any refrigerant, some require a HVAC license, the newer stuff is generally more accepted to be sold over Internet because it's way better than R22 (phased out in 2020) for the environment. I still see a lot of hesitation from HVAC people to switch gases regardless. I was lucky as mine was R407C, so no decisions for me.

rsms - me either, not a HVAC expert, just got really Internet smart on it lately. HVAC / refrigeration is a pretty in depth field.

What was the prognosis Shawn? Any luck with an HVAC guy? I am curious to see how my DIY stacks up to their prices.
Still haven't got around to it i have been very busy. I'm still playing with the Generator part. it runs awesome but it seems to start rather hard sometimes? To me it seems that way? thinking about looking at the glow plugs? I know that Gasoline engine's are different but fundamentally they are very similar, Both need a source to explode Fuel. so when gasoline engines become hard to start it usually means spark plugs ( some times) So for now thats my angel of attack for the rather hard starting issue. Still debating if i want to stick another $400-500 into the ECU because I bought the GETT for the sole purpose of powering my cabin which has a fireplace in it.
 

Suprman

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Stratford/Connecticut
The ac is neat. But its almost overwhelming unless you have a large area to cool. It would make your cabin into a wind tunnel. The generator part itself is pretty compact it comes off the trailer easily. Use the 3 120v legs each to neutral just balance the load and you should be fine for cabin use.
 

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
The ac is neat. But its almost overwhelming unless you have a large area to cool. It would make your cabin into a wind tunnel. The generator part itself is pretty compact it comes off the trailer easily. Use the 3 120v legs each to neutral just balance the load and you should be fine for cabin use.

Yeah i bet it's overwhelming. i turned it on and it really blows!!! i could imagine that force with cold Ac hitting me. But i believe i only have 2 120 V out lets which are 15 Amps each. I was also wondering if i did part with the ECU what could a guy do with that unused 208 Volts of power? is there way to tap into it and achieve more 120? I mean correct me if I'm wrong but isn't this Generator a beast? Very powerful? There has to be way to use all of its potential if i did part with the ECU? So lets say i did part with the ECU, now wouldn't the Generator be a waste? because i would just be using the 120 outlets to power my cabin (its set up like a RV). Sounds insane but i figure you guys would know for sure. Oh i also tested the 24 volt slave outlet on the Gen. it worked excellent. see pictures. The generator works Perfect even the built in battery charger works, it's just a bit hard starting? Maybe its me?

IMG_3260.jpgIMG_3259.jpg
 

Suprman

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Stratford/Connecticut
Did you drain the fuel tank put fresh fuel and filters in it. And replace any cracked fuel lines? They usually start easy. Use the 3 120v legs each to neutral. Prob good for 45 amps per.
 

therooster2001

Active member
824
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Location
Colorado
Mine isn't a knob turn and it's on, it does need me to hold on to it cranking for about 5 seconds longer than I think it should. I assume you are also warming the glow plugs each time right? Also check the fuel bulb to see if it's holding the full pressure. If you get a soft squeeze out of it, you've got air somewhere. Mine with AC is blasting ice-cubes out when it's on. I use it to cool my garage (25x50) and might use it in the MKT, or to cool my tent (15X14).

And yes, 20KW is a lot. More than just those two 15A 120V's on the front. Change out or use that 60A 208. Break it up to 3 120V legs. It is a beast. I have a breakout box that splits the legs into 3, so, plenty of power. Without the ECU on there, you get a lot of power back. Mine running full blast looks like it takes 30% load, so you'd get that back, but it would be hard to load up the generator particularly a cabin that would overwhelm that gen.
 

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
Mine isn't a knob turn and it's on, it does need me to hold on to it cranking for about 5 seconds longer than I think it should. I assume you are also warming the glow plugs each time right? Also check the fuel bulb to see if it's holding the full pressure. If you get a soft squeeze out of it, you've got air somewhere. Mine with AC is blasting ice-cubes out when it's on. I use it to cool my garage (25x50) and might use it in the MKT, or to cool my tent (15X14).

And yes, 20KW is a lot. More than just those two 15A 120V's on the front. Change out or use that 60A 208. Break it up to 3 120V legs. It is a beast. I have a breakout box that splits the legs into 3, so, plenty of power. Without the ECU on there, you get a lot of power back. Mine running full blast looks like it takes 30% load, so you'd get that back, but it would be hard to load up the generator particularly a cabin that would overwhelm that gen.

Yeah the primer bulb is good. its nice and hard. Everything looks clean and clear. I do warm the glow plugs each and every time. if i let it sit for about 2 days it seem to take maybe 5-7 seconds to start and when it does one puff of black smoke comes out and she is running! And it Runs PERFECT! I think I'm going to pull the glow plugs and put my meter on them. Now having said all that, i'm very interested in that 3 leg thing. but I know nothing about this stuff so any and all info will be helpful and lots of pictures.
 

shawnshumvee

Member
336
6
18
Location
Janesville WI
Did you drain the fuel tank put fresh fuel and filters in it. And replace any cracked fuel lines? They usually start easy. Use the 3 120v legs each to neutral. Prob good for 45 amps per.
Sorry, Suprman but i don't know what " Use the 3 120v legs each to neutral means? Where are the 3 located? what are legs? etc. As of now i know nothing in the wire department. But i have faith i found the correct source of information, SS. Although I did wire my new garage. 120 and 220
 
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