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Dually conversion done simple on the cheap.

How would I make my m1008 into a dually on the cheap? I'd like to keep my axle and do I have a way to use all my OEM rims?
I've got to wondering from to much time on my hands.
 
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doghead

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Fronts or rears?
 

big block 88

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Do you know how wide you would be by just adding spacers between 2 non dually offset wheels? It can be done but that would insane.

You can throw dually back spaced wheels on, issue is single trucks have wide track or narrower i cant remember any more. Either way axle width are different.
 

KsM715

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I can't even begin to comprehend how much leverage would be on the lugs trying to hold a spacer big enough to fit between two standard rims
 

The FLU farm

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I can't even begin to comprehend how much leverage would be on the lugs trying to hold a spacer big enough to fit between two standard rims
That reminded me of some really scary looking spacers made for tractors. Basically two plates with multiple pieces of square tubing welded in between them. And yes, if memory serves me, they came in at least six inch, maybe even 8-inch.
But in this case, the inner plate would have to be further compromised to accommodate the shape of the wheel at the studs on the inner wheel.
 

Chief_919

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How would I make my m1008 into a dually on the cheap?
Sell it, buy a dually for the same money, paint that green.
I'd like to keep my axle
No. Unless you mean keep it in the bed as you roll down the road on a proper dual wheel axle.
and do I have a way to use all my OEM rims?
In the bed to keep your old axle from rolling around.
I've got to wondering from to much time on my hands.
 

The FLU farm

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How would I make my m1008 into a dually on the cheap?
Well, realistically it wouldn't have to cost that much to get a dually axle, front spacers, wheels, and the correct brackets and springs for the rear.
Fenders are available aftermarket, I believe, or could be salvaged from the same junkyard as the rest of the parts.
Or, buy a non-runner and transfer the parts.
 

rustystud

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The proper dually axle for the CUCV is a Dana 70HD. That axle commands a pretty penny in todays market since all the hardcore 4X4 guys want them. I actually had a guy come up to me at the gas station and ask to buy my rear differential for $1200.00 ! I gave him the "are you crazy look" and said no. Can you make a Corporate 14 bolt into a dually ? , the answer is yes but it will cost you. You don't want to even consider using anything less then a 14 bolt either. If your lucky you can find Dana 80 dually axles. They come with disc brakes which are handy. The last time I priced one out though they wanted $1800.00 .
 

dependable

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I have three CUCVs that are duellys.

One is a 1008 I put on duel wheel rear axle, I believe a corporate 14 bolt, form a '70s K-30, and helper springs and bumpers. I left the front wheels stock.

One is a 1028 that has a Dana 70 and front spacer, with duel wheel rims all around. This was an ex air force truck that was equipped this way, not officially a 1028 A2, but similar.

The other is a 1010 that a forest service converted to rear duels with bolt on kit on stock rear axle, front rims left normal. I have also seen same rear axle conversion on a govt 1028 with contact maintenance body. These track a little wider than a stock duel rear.

The pictures are of the 1010 and 1008, already in my attachment file.
 

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The FLU farm

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The last time I priced one out though they wanted $1800.00 .
Based on memory (which isn't my strong point, either) a complete, but maybe not running or well running, GM dually of the era can be bought for less than $1,800.
It would contain all the parts needed, and then some, with the possible exception of a driveshaft if the donor is a 2WD or Crew Cab.
Sell off the remains and there should be plenty of money left for a few cans of rattle CARC to make the bed and wheels match.
 

Chaski

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Shouldn't be that insane. Front axle is a cake walk, the rear will require a swap.

The front GM kingpin Dana 60 is identical spindle to spindle for DRW and SRW applications. You would just need to find a set of DRW hubs and rotors and slap them on (the rotors are idential, except for the diameter of the stud holes). They can be found used for a reasonable price, because all the offroad guys who snatch up the Dually K30 trucks for the front axles swap the DRW hubs out for the narrow SRW hubs. You may be able to trade out the SRW hubs you have for DRW ones and net some cash on your part to the right person. Any one of the 4X4 forums should net you many people who would be more than happy to trade you hubs (and pay you). Keep it in mind that your SRW front hubs are gold, they sell new for at least $250 each, and used ones can fetch nearly that becasue most of the new ones are aftermarket. I'd say a used set of SRW hubs is worth $275-425 depending on condition of the rotors and DRW hubs are worth less than $100 a pair unless the rotors are mint.

In the back again you would have to swap out the entire axle. If you swapped only the hubs to the DRW style you would narrow your SRW axle from 67.5" to 63.5" and would have inner tires hitting your leaf packs and inner fender wells. This is the combo that was on the cab and chassis trucks, but the springs were only 36" apart, which is about 8" narrower than what you have. This won't work.

Your locked 4.56 rear axle is gold to a 4X4 guy, and you may be able to sell it or trade to get a dually 14 bolt that is the correct 72" width. Alot of the dually pickups came with 4.56 gears, so you may even luck out on that. You can find a Dually 14 bolt out of a pickup pretty easily, or a Dana 70 if you wish. Personally I like the 14 bolts more, becasue they are much easier to set up gears, are cheaper and there are a ton out there.

If you find the right guy to trade parts with, or purchse used parts at a good price and sell what you have you could end up with a zero dollar swap, or maybe even net some money.
 

dependable

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I was thinking back & I believe the duel axle in my 1008 posted above actually came from a C-30, not a K-30, although they would be the same, so it would be pretty easy to find one. I do remember the one I put in had 4:10 gears and I swapped the 4:56 and the locker out of the 1008 single axle. It is pretty simple job, just remember to pre-load the pinion bearing and torque everything to spec.

I think the older rear duel axels were slightly narrower, which is not bad in my perspective. Notice in above pictures I got away with original mirrors on the 1008, but had to go to "west coast jr" style mirrors on the 1010 because of wider track, and the bed that fit that.

Actually, if I was swapping around axles for a road truck, I'd go up in gear ratio from the 4:56, but the original gearing is not bad if using as a local road dump truck, as mine are.
 

Recovry4x4

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I've done a few now including the one in my avatar. How are your fabricating skills? The short answer is, yes you can use both axles but it's not as easy as it sounds. Do you plan on keeping the existing bed? There are 2 different width dually rears. Post up your plans and I'll try to detail what can be done. Let me see if I can attach a pic.

This is an M1008 with the narrow cab and chassis axle
 

Attachments

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Here's what I managed to find:
Front hubs, 2 new rotors, 2 rims for my hub's and rotors.
14 bolt dually rear, and 6 rims and 4 good tires, 2 steel spacers, $600.
I hope to reuse my calipers and pads up front.
I also hope to put my locker in the dually axle at the same time as the 1410 u joint yoke is installed.
 
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Chaski

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Wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface (WMS-WMS or Hub-Hub, all the same). 72"
 
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Chaski

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Take some pictures. I would not run it, sounds like a cab and chassis axle. Is it about 63.5" wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface?
 
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