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Good to see the magnets on the oil filters. Do you have them on the fuel side too?
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I'm just asking so don't get your panties in a bunch, but you say "in your experience" . Are you a mechanic ? It's always good to find another mechanic here.but in my experience the proportion of engine failures that I have seen that could have been prevented from not using additives is greater than the proportion of failures that were caused by not using additives.
What oils have you found that use the CF-2 standard ? The only diesel rated oils I've found out here are Delo and Rotella.You'd be farther ahead using a CF-2 rated SAE-40 oil. It already has the higher ZDDP levels, and it uses only balls and no sticks to lubricate with. It has about the same characteristics as the old CH-4 15W-40 except for the cold weather rating.
No magnets on the fuel filter, ran out of the "B" drive magnets. Anyhow the fuel is continuously filtered to 3 micron absolute and can be valved from 0% to 100% recirculation back to the tank. Might be the cleanest fuel tank ever. Normally I valve it to hold 3 to 6 psig out to the primary filter/engine.Good to see the magnets on the oil filters. Do you have them on the fuel side too?
So are you up on all the new little screaming Honda's running 0W20 oils ? Our new little CRV runs that oil and I'm wondering what the bearing clearances are like.I have spent most of my working career in the automotive dealers as a technician. So yes but mostly with smaller gasoline engines.
So Valvoline straight 40W oil is the one then. Looks like they make it for NAPA too. I really don't like using a straight weight oil like that in a Diesel that see's a lot of climate change like we do up here. I'll stick with my Synthetic Rotello and some ZDDP additive for now.
Did they recommend their own GM brand additive?Oh, just to make things interesting. On my new truck the Chevy shop recommends I use a good fuel additive to help the injection pump and injectors .
I spent one year as a apprentice under a ford technician then went to Mazda for 7 years after that I worked for emergency one as a electrician manufacturing custom fire trucks for about 2 years. Then I decided to go to the parts side of things and worked in the aftermarket as a parts sales manager for 2 yars then decided to give a dealership a go again and was a parts manager at a dealer for a year and finally now I am a lock smith that specializes in automotive car keys and remotes.So are you up on all the new little screaming Honda's running 0W20 oils ? Our new little CRV runs that oil and I'm wondering what the bearing clearances are like.
How long have you been with the dealerships ? I could only handle it for one year then left. I found a good shop to park my tool box and stayed there.
That's because there is a pending Class action Lawsuit against Bosch and GM over CP4 injection pump failure.Oh, just to make things interesting. On my new truck the Chevy shop recommends I use a good fuel additive to help the injection pump and injectors .
The dealership recommended "Stanadyne" but I've used "Opti-Lube XPD" for years now in all my other diesel engines with excellent rusults. So I've just stuck with the Opti-Lube.Did they recommend their own GM brand additive?
Is your new Chevy diesel or gas?
Another thread I find you bought a special as you wanted it diesel truck
Did you decide which additive yet?
That's because there is a pending Class action Lawsuit against Bosch and GM over CP4 injection pump failure.
I'm not sure what brand additive there recommending but Stanadyne is a excellent choice IMO.
https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2018/gm-cp4-lawsuit-fuel-pumps.shtml
Tom
So your a locksmith now. I could have used your expertise a few days ago ! I needed a lock rekeyed (lost the keys) . It was one of those circular locks. Cost me $45.00 for two new keys.I spent one year as a apprentice under a ford technician then went to Mazda for 7 years after that I worked for emergency one as a electrician manufacturing custom fire trucks for about 2 years. Then I decided to go to the parts side of things and worked in the aftermarket as a parts sales manager for 2 yars then decided to give a dealership a go again and was a parts manager at a dealer for a year and finally now I am a lock smith that specializes in automotive car keys and remotes.
The tolerences on these new engines are extremely tight compared to older engines. I don’t know bearing clearance of the top of my head but the Mazda skyactiv engines are not even noisy without oil. The only reason I know that is one time our lube technician forgot to put oil in and did not figure it out until he was outside of the shop and saw the oil light on. The engine was just as quiet as if it had the oil in it.
This is is just speculation on my behalf so do not quote me on this but I believe the theory is flow is more important than pressure. As long as the oil is flowing to all the places it is supposed to be then pressure is not that important. The oil pressure does not provide better protection or in other words if you have a engine that has 5 pounds of oil pressure but is still maintaining proper oil flow to all components it would not be any better off with 55 pounds of pressure. Matter of fact it takes energy to produce pressure so why not save the energy and be more efficient.
I do do not know specifics about the Honda engine other than the basic knowledge that transfers over from other experience but I will say that I believe Honda makes one of the best 4cylinder engines out there for consistent performance and reliability.
I will say the reason that these manufacturers are running these light weight oils is solely driven by emissions standards. The Mazda engine is built to the same tolerances regardless of what country it is sent to but the United States vehicles are speckled for 0w20 oil and the non us engine is speckled for 5w20 oil. At this time Toyota is running 0w16 oil and there is a lot of talk about going to 0w8 oil. Our country has such strict emissions laws that these manufacturers must do everything and anything to comply. So if it means engineering a engine to use the lightest oil possible to reduce parasitic loss they will. The thing that I wonder about is that there is no specification for oil weight under 0 so it is possible that different manufacturers of 0 weight oil will perform differently. The current standard for 0 weight is that it is less than 1 weight where 5 weight must confirm to a upper and a lower limit 0 weight just has to be less than 1 but there is no spec on how much less.
Yes, I'm not to pleased about the DEF fluid and filter system either. The only problem with buying used is, if you don't know who owned the vehicle and how they took care of it you just gambling that this will be a good vehicle.Mine is a 2009 GMC 3500 crew cab long bed and I got the truck used with 70k miles for 27k. I had a FASS pump installed when I got it to help with keeping the CP3 with plenty of fuel. I also have used Opti-Lube since I got it. I now have 130k miles and injector balance rates are still real good and rail pressures are correct. I also installed the Edge insight CTS2 and I can see any problems or monitor everything plus it shows me if the engine throws codes and I can clear codes. It's nice to have a new truck but with all the emission stuff and that dang DEF filter that needs to be cleaned as said new is nice but not the price.
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