Dan Neubert
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Thanks for the help.They are 48v diodes. You do not need them. They only for in case you hook the batteries up backwards.
Cole Harsee 24063 is the solenoid numbers.
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Thanks for the help.They are 48v diodes. You do not need them. They only for in case you hook the batteries up backwards.
Cole Harsee 24063 is the solenoid numbers.
The far left? With The diode? To ground. You do not need itDoes anyone know where this broken wire goes to from the PCB?View attachment 751203View attachment 751204
So just hook it up to a ground? Which ground? I can just replace with a wire?
The blown diode protected the abs solenoid and the abs module. That is the top Solenoid. The lower solenoid is what runs the truck. It is blown more than likely causing your no start conditionSo the fact that it is burnt up and not connected will not cause any issues, but if I was having issues, I probably have another issue in the box? Because I had no continuity when I was doing the checks in the TM. The TM had multiple tests that lead to "REPLACE PCB". So I took it out. No crank, no power anywhere really. Battery switch and ignition switch was working and had power to the PCB. Neutral safety switch is working and tried wiggling the shifter. Batteries tested good and are not even old. What cause the issue was the generator went out and overcharged the system. Issues occurred after this. Had it rebuilt and was working properly. Tried disconnecting the starter lockout signal wire too, as it said in the testing, which did not do anything. Guess I should test the solenoids?
Post a picture of what the inside of your box looks like and we can better help you...I would like to know if the original post with the new style PCB has been fixed with a workaround or parts numbers. My box failed, luckly I have a second truck to borrow from and am still able to work. There is plenty of info on the older style. I ordered 4 cole-hearsy relay's and opened my box to discover a completly different animal. Any info would be appreciated. Wayne
Your picture did not postView attachment 771677
This is my control box. There is no apparent sign of any damage to the wiring or connections. I expected to replace the relays with the cole-hearsee ones.I even ordered 4 so as to change the second truck which does not have an issue yet.
I have not seen any comments regarding this set-up.
I would be happy to eliminate the whole protection stuff if thats possible.
So is there some info on eliminating that circuit board? It seems like the thread never really ends up addressing that question specifically?Here's the inside of my PCB:
View attachment 536582
Have we established a way of getting rid of the circuit board? I've seen some very clean looking boxes with just the two solenoids and a couple of diodes attached to them.
With my truck, the main power switch would activate the one solenoid just fine, but the run switch activated solenoid wouldn't work. Tap on the PCB box with a hammer and it would come to life. So I figured since I've got the box open, I'll just replace both solenoids and if possible dump the circuit board in order to simplify things in there.
I went to NAPA for the solenoids, but they are a bunch of incompetent stupid people in there. They can't find parts like the older guys could. They rely on the computer and demand you tell them what make and model vehicle it is for. After explaining to them that their computer system isn't going to have a 5 ton military truck listed, they just tell you that they won't have it.
Any insight?