• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Ever see inside the Protective Control Box?

Thomas18Z

New member
8
0
1
Location
NH
I just finished rebuilding my PCB, two brand new solenoids, and got rid of the circuit board. The truck fires right up now(no more beating on the box with a hammer).
I'll post pictures of it a little later on. I pretty much followed what a few others have done on here. I'm glad I didn't spend $150-200 buying a new one.
How did you bypass (get rid of) the circuit board specifically?
 

Thomas18Z

New member
8
0
1
Location
NH
I also had a question about your 59 sec Youtube vid on 'Fuel screw and aneroid adjustment'.

1. When you say, turn fuel screw 3 turns... is that actually 3x 360 degree full turns?
2. On the star wheel for pre-boost fuel, you say a couple clicks, but may need readjustment as necessary. How do you know when it is 'right?'
3. ... and while we're at it... this this DOES NOT like to start cold. I'm working through that issue now. I like the vid on the air nipple in fuel cap. How much pressure can you put to those tanks safely before they'll 'explode?' (M931A2 - dual tanks obviously)
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
326
83
Location
Livonia, MI
So is there some info on eliminating that circuit board? It seems like the thread never really ends up addressing that question specifically?
The small circuit board is there to prevent starter re-engagement on an already running engine. It looks at either AC output of the alternator or feed from an oil pressure switch. It can be eliminated. I’ll have to look at the schematic to do so. Give me a short amount of time, if listed in the P2P I’ll write back how to do so.
 

Thomas18Z

New member
8
0
1
Location
NH
The small circuit board is there to prevent starter re-engagement on an already running engine. It looks at either AC output of the alternator or feed from an oil pressure switch. It can be eliminated. I’ll have to look at the schematic to do so. Give me a short amount of time, if listed in the P2P I’ll write back how to do so.
Here is what my current one looks like. Seems different than what othersIMG_1874.jpg have in similar trucks?
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
326
83
Location
Livonia, MI
You’ll basically be removing the circuit board and connecting the solenoids as they are in a PCB box without the circuit board. Simplistically, each solenoid is controlled from each dash switch. One for dash power and one for starter engagement.

You’ll want solenoids that are rated for 24V and 100% continuous duty cycle. You can remove the one for the starter if you switch to a gear reduction unit as its solenoid pulls much less power, but easiest to just rebuilt the PCB with 2 new solenoids and no circuit board.
 

Thomas18Z

New member
8
0
1
Location
NH
You’ll basically be removing the circuit board and connecting the solenoids as they are in a PCB box without the circuit board. Simplistically, each solenoid is controlled from each dash switch. One for dash power and one for starter engagement.

You’ll want solenoids that are rated for 24V and 100% continuous duty cycle. You can remove the one for the starter if you switch to a gear reduction unit as its solenoid pulls much less power, but easiest to just rebuilt the PCB with 2 new solenoids and no circuit board.
I had ordered the CH 24063. I think I have it figured out. Thank you.
 

Thomas18Z

New member
8
0
1
Location
NH
Here's my redone box:
View attachment 537847View attachment 537845View attachment 537844View attachment 537846
White wires are just grounds going to the case. I saw another one on here that just had the grounds daisy chained, but I don't like doing that. It's the amateur radio operator in me. Diodes are 1N5408. On the side with the 2 blue crimp on ring terminals, there is a piece of wire in there, it's just very short and the insulation from the ring terminal hides it...#6 copper. Solenoids I used are Cole Hersee 24063, 85 amp continuous duty. [h=1][/h]
Nice job with this... thx for posting pics.
Q: My original solenoids don't have the additional post that you have grounded with the white wires. They are single post only. Can you speak to that and also why you have diodes running between the two posts?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,118
9,351
113
Location
Mason, TN
Nice job with this... thx for posting pics.
Q: My original solenoids don't have the additional post that you have grounded with the white wires. They are single post only. Can you speak to that and also why you have diodes running between the two posts?
There are several variants. Some solenoids use an external post for ground some are grounded internally therefore when they are tack welded to the base they ground thru the mounting bolts to the truck rather than thru the wires in the other boxes.

Diodes are there in case of backfeed of power or someone hooking the batteries up backwards it blows the diode over burning the wire harness up.

 

post 5466

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
46
8
8
Location
Taylorsville North Carolina
I'll have to go look at the circuit board to see what is on it and see if we can reverse engineer it. I'll post up pictures tomorrow of it, don't feel like going to grab it out of the garage now...work was exhausting today.
Anyone know where I can find a box for my 5 ton apparently cell annoyed, sticking something stay energized, draining you batteries and ABS light staying on
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,605
2,898
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
The abs light could be a gizmo fried when your PCB failed but ABS has its own brain, sensors, and electronics separate than PCB. There is a diagnostics port by the passenger dash to pull code with a midland abs code reader.
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,605
2,898
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
I just Google that as I was not familiar. Not sure if it will work. I don't recall anyone posting about that one.

The military one is 24v and does not look like that.
Let me see if I can find a thread here or info to link to
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks