I will send it to you here shortly. Message me your email addressSo is there some info on eliminating that circuit board? It seems like the thread never really ends up addressing that question specifically?
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
I will send it to you here shortly. Message me your email addressSo is there some info on eliminating that circuit board? It seems like the thread never really ends up addressing that question specifically?
How did you bypass (get rid of) the circuit board specifically?I just finished rebuilding my PCB, two brand new solenoids, and got rid of the circuit board. The truck fires right up now(no more beating on the box with a hammer).
I'll post pictures of it a little later on. I pretty much followed what a few others have done on here. I'm glad I didn't spend $150-200 buying a new one.
Thx so much! Hoping this can be done w/out diodes?I will send it to you here shortly. Message me your email address
Yes. Do you have a modern gear reduction starter or the stock unit?
I'm assuming it's the stock unit, as the rest of the truck is stock, but I don't know for sure.Yes. Do you have a modern gear reduction starter or the stock unit?
The small circuit board is there to prevent starter re-engagement on an already running engine. It looks at either AC output of the alternator or feed from an oil pressure switch. It can be eliminated. I’ll have to look at the schematic to do so. Give me a short amount of time, if listed in the P2P I’ll write back how to do so.So is there some info on eliminating that circuit board? It seems like the thread never really ends up addressing that question specifically?
Here is what my current one looks like. Seems different than what others have in similar trucks?The small circuit board is there to prevent starter re-engagement on an already running engine. It looks at either AC output of the alternator or feed from an oil pressure switch. It can be eliminated. I’ll have to look at the schematic to do so. Give me a short amount of time, if listed in the P2P I’ll write back how to do so.
I had ordered the CH 24063. I think I have it figured out. Thank you.You’ll basically be removing the circuit board and connecting the solenoids as they are in a PCB box without the circuit board. Simplistically, each solenoid is controlled from each dash switch. One for dash power and one for starter engagement.
You’ll want solenoids that are rated for 24V and 100% continuous duty cycle. You can remove the one for the starter if you switch to a gear reduction unit as its solenoid pulls much less power, but easiest to just rebuilt the PCB with 2 new solenoids and no circuit board.
Nice job with this... thx for posting pics.Here's my redone box:
View attachment 537847View attachment 537845View attachment 537844View attachment 537846
White wires are just grounds going to the case. I saw another one on here that just had the grounds daisy chained, but I don't like doing that. It's the amateur radio operator in me. Diodes are 1N5408. On the side with the 2 blue crimp on ring terminals, there is a piece of wire in there, it's just very short and the insulation from the ring terminal hides it...#6 copper. Solenoids I used are Cole Hersee 24063, 85 amp continuous duty. [h=1][/h]
There are several variants. Some solenoids use an external post for ground some are grounded internally therefore when they are tack welded to the base they ground thru the mounting bolts to the truck rather than thru the wires in the other boxes.Nice job with this... thx for posting pics.
Q: My original solenoids don't have the additional post that you have grounded with the white wires. They are single post only. Can you speak to that and also why you have diodes running between the two posts?
Anyone know where I can find a box for my 5 ton apparently cell annoyed, sticking something stay energized, draining you batteries and ABS light staying onI'll have to go look at the circuit board to see what is on it and see if we can reverse engineer it. I'll post up pictures tomorrow of it, don't feel like going to grab it out of the garage now...work was exhausting today.
Sorry, solenoid is sticking and draining batteries even after individually charged for brand new batteries 939 ABS truckAnyone know where I can find a box for my 5 ton apparently cell annoyed, sticking something stay energized, draining you batteries and ABS light staying on
is that a midland GRAU ABS diagnostic readerThe abs light could be a gizmo fried when your PCB failed but ABS has its own brain, sensors, and electronics separate than PCB. There is a diagnostics port by the passenger dash to pull code with a midland abs code reader.
It's a haldex sn5000is that a midland GRAU ABS diagnostic reader
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!