Exterior Latex/Acrylic House Paints

[wsucougarx]

What primer would you guys reccomend?

I too use Rusty Primer. Got to let that primer cure for a few days before spraying with the paint.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Originally Posted by Heavysteven - What primer would you guys reccomend?

Some people seem to get away with less, but I play it really safe.

Rustoleum doesn't contemplate using latex or acrylic over top so there are no directions but the ones that do usually specify 2 weeks curing before latex. I do at least that and prefer 3 - 4 esp in colder/damper weather. Insufficient cured primer can cause a load of problems.

If I can't give that amount of time on metal I remove loose rust, treat with rust converter/etch, then use a direct-to-metal (DTM) industrial acrylic. That's a 24 - 48 hour prep window.

Steve

 

[TJP]

Subscribed great information.

 

[RAYZER]

A couple of weeks ago i sprayed the inside of the cab of my deuce road tractor with bher 383 carc substitute using a airless sprayer, only to have it rained on and the job ruined, the paint that went on with the house sprayer (one coat) seemed pretty heavy and took a long time to dry,
Today i went back to the drawing board and decided to use a old develbiss automotive spray gun to respray the cab interior and some small parts, i set the air pressure at about 50 psi and thinned the paint about 10%, this application method worked perfectly,giving a much thinner coat and dry to the touch in about fifteen minutes.
In my opinion,using a automotive spray gun vrs an airless sprayer is the best way to apply this type of paint on our military vehicles.

 

[rlwm211]

I have used both Siphon feed automotive and also HVLP spray guns and prefer the HVLP.
The ten percent is essential to let the paint smooth out before it dries and it is thin enough to dry pretty quick.

Now being in Florida helps a lot in the other major factor which is that the temperatures of the materials and the weather have to be suitable.

RL

 

[SPCWarning]

I experimented a little bit on the hood today with the camo pattern I downloaded. I'm happy with the colors now, so I'll probably start rolling the rest in a few weeks if the weather is like today was here (70 degrees and sunny!)
The crisp lines from rolling/brushing take a little getting used to after seeing the sprayed on camo paint jobs but I think it'll be fine.
The pics show only one thin coat I applied today. At least one more coat maybe more are in order and will look good when it's finished.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

if your using latex paint. You can add flotrol to the paint it slows the dry time and lays like oil. less brush / roller marks and sandpaper feel!

 

[wsucougarx]

In my opinion,using a automotive spray gun vrs an airless sprayer is the best way to apply this type of paint on our military vehicles.

That may true with your current atmospheric conditions. However to attain the military "CARC-like" texture, I found spraying it undiluted through the airless was the way to go. I did mine on nice 70 degree days where the paint basically dried upon contact.

 

[donnerwetter58]

That may true with your current atmospheric conditions. However to attain the military "CARC-like" texture, I found spraying it undiluted through the airless was the way to go. I did mine on nice 70 degree days where the paint basically dried upon contact.

The downside to the CARC like sandpaper texture is washing it. It will just about shred any cloth. If using cotton, it holds so much lint it looks like a fuzz ball after washing.
I've tried a siphon gun thinning with 10% water and the paint will dry on contact with the CARC texture. The color seems much lighter also.
I then tried a sample with Floetrol (10%). The dry time was extended, the texture smoother and the color much darker.
I don't know when CARC was adopted. My truck is an '85. All the paint on it is smooth. The only CARC I found was the passenger bench frame.
I'd like to keep the the paint close to the original texture and smooth just makes things so much easier all around.

 

[SPCWarning]

Here's the paint I found. It wasn't expensive at all ($10.99 a gallon at a local hardware store). I'm attaching the info on it from their website. According to this, all the guys who had questions about painting canvas on the deuces and 5 tons may want to try it. I'm not sure how well it's going to hold up only time will tell. I still have to finish the pattern on the whole truck then add a couple more coats to all. Warmer weather will let me do that. I did notice with the black it doesn't cover completely with one coat, but goes on thin and evenly and dries quickly. One maybe two more coats should be good. I'm sure it can be sprayed from airless or hvlp too, I'm just rolling/brushing mine.
They also sell it in aerosol spray cans. The OD Green they had was too dark to match the CARC Green so I added a little bit of my butterbean paint to lighten it a bit, but the OD is a nice deep green that looks like it would match some of the older truck paint jobs really close. They sell it in OD, Brown, Black, and Sand.

From BLP's website:
64-line Latex Camouflage Paint: [ MSDS / PDS ] Our Latex Camouflage Paint is recommended for painting all new or previously painted wood such as rough sawn or smooth lumber, plywood, and outdoor furniture. May also be applied on canvas, properly primed metal, and duck blinds. Available in olive drab, black, brown, and tan.

 

[TacticalDoc]

Do you also paint the canvas with latex paint? or spray paint?

I have a tan canvas that I want t o paint OD. Any suggestions?

 

[RAYZER]

Do you also paint the canvas with latex paint? or spray paint?

I have a tan canvas that I want t o paint OD. Any suggestions?

I was told by a bher rep that the exterior primer/paint all in one will stick to vinal.

 

[TacticalDoc]

I was told by a bher rep that the exterior primer/paint all in one will stick to vinal.

will it flake, crack or peal off over time?

would it be better to spray paint it?

 

[RAYZER]

will it flake, crack or peal off over time?

would it be better to spray paint it?

That's a good question,i think a couple of light coats of the latex would be the way to go,it would be flexible enough.

 

[Gunfreak25]

That is awesome if it works on vinyl. The surplus cargo tops should last many times longer with a coating of paint to protect them from UV rays. They would get eaten up in less than 1 year here. Sunniest city in the country.

 

[dikwks]

Hey everybody! I've been trying different paint recipes that I've found on this thread and others. I finally decided the darker green that was used on the Vietnam era trucks was what I wanted when I found it under all of the layers of paint on my truck. I matched it with a section of the sheet metal from the original driver's seat base. I took that section to Lowe's and had it the inside surface scanned, here is the color recipe that they came up with:

Valspar samples, B 4-94101, 101-23.25, 109-1.75, 111-11.25

That is the code printed on the label, I think the first group refers to the paint base. This one is a satin finish. I haven't decided yet on the finish that I will keep, but I saw where someone said that the flat was hard to wash. No pictures yet as it got too dark too fast, but from what I could see, the colors were matching up pretty good. I will take that section of sheet metal into work with me and check with a fella that was there. Maybe he can verify the color for me.

 

[Gunfreak25]

Good Ol PBR. Good stuff.

 

[RAYZER]

Here's some very good results using bher exterior latex, 383 green.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Painting Canvas

Personally, I'd really hesitate to do this. Leaving aside the value of canvas, I'd expect anything to eventually look bad because canvas will pass moisture from the inside which vinyl doesn't. Paint doesn't like moisture from behind. I'd think that was especially true in more humid climates.

I'd probably sell the canvas (NO!!!!) or otherwise get vinyl in the color I wanted or a used one and give the paint a try.

 

[SteveKuhn]

"... I finally decided the darker green that was used on the Vietnam era trucks..."

If you're referring to 24087, the Gillespie is somewhere between what the commercial paints call 'satin' and 'semigloss'. Most commercial satin or semi will settle down gloss-wise in a couple of months so judge accordingly. The Marine Forest from the era is flat (or semi) but not 24087.

24087 can be real tough to match. I posted a thread back a-ways on the trouble I had. If you really want to get a good match, you need to look at it from different angles in different outdoor lighting conditions. It really will change hue depending on that. It also changes color as it changes gloss. Mine started more brown and has taken 4 - 5 months to get that green coming through.

This photo is only days/2 weeks after some of the paint was applied. Along with Gillespie, there is Ben Moore acrylic and alkyd. Any differences are far less obvious now.

FWIW.


Steve