Finally Joined The MEP Family

[CT-Mike]

Howdy,
OK,
My 802 had 14 original hours in it. 2007 model. I still wanted to change the oil. I put in break-in oil since it was still such a low hour unit. Something to think about.

I will definitely be changing the oil, but hadn't thought about using break-in oil. Have a recommendation on a brand and viscosity?

 

[jimbo913]

I bet it was this.

John Deere Engine Break-In Oil (part number TY22057)

 

[Daybreak]

I bet it was this.

John Deere Engine Break-In Oil (part number TY22057)

Howdy,
Yes it is. I wasn't sure if my dealer had any in stock. I asked for him to order some, and he had it in stock.


John Deere Break-In Plus Oil

I figured if the oil was sitting around that long after a few hours on it. The 802 only takes 3.2 quarts.

Break-In oil does not have the detergent in it.
You can find other break-in oils around. Then some others will just say "Just use whatever oil your going to use"

 

[jimbo913]

Did some checking locally and could not find the TY22057, which appears to be a Canadian number. I did find the equivalent US number TY26661 (1 gal), and it was on the shelf. It is 10W-30 and should be used for 100 hours and no more than 500 hours. My 803A only has 7 hours since remanufactured and it probably has break-in oil in it already, but I am going to replace it with this to be certain. It has been 1 year since changed, so time to change anyway...

Anyone know how much oil the 803A takes?

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
MEP-803A oil capacity is 5.9 quarts.

 

[jimbo913]

Thanks Mike. Crap $50 oil change.

 

[CT-Mike]

Its ALIVE!!!!!!! Diesel engineer from work came over today, we added coolant, checked the oil (brand new - still light amber color), checked all of our connections, and gave it a final once over.

Dead cranked it a few times and everything sounded good, no abnormal mechanical sounds at all. Went to prime/run for a couple minutes, went to start - nothing. Just a clunking sound like something was dragging the batteries down so that enough current wasn't getting to the starter. Tried that a few times with no change.

Eventually dead cranked it for 15 seconds, immediately went to on with the the dead crank switch, hit start and she fired up like a top. Clear exhaust, smooth sounding, no issues at all. Adjusted voltage and frequency, and measured the output across L1-L3 - 240 volts. Tried the diesel fired hydronic block heater - that worked like a champ also. I'm convinced that the only reason this one went to GL was that someone bashed some of the sheet metal with a fork lift, either that or the fuel tank well nut (drain valve) that was leaking and needed replacement. Has 16 hours on the meter after Letterkenny Depot reset was performed in 2012.

Now I just need to make up a cable to load test it before I go through the hassle of permanently wiring it up to the house.

Thanks to M-35Tom for the info on the well nut.

Anyone have any ideas on why it wouldn't crank when initially taken to start? Is this something I need to look into, or is everything good now?

Thanks for all the help folks, I really appreciate it.

 

[jimbo913]

Did you try to restart after shutting down? If it restarts 2-3 times without any special "trick" I wouldnt worry about it.

 

[CT-Mike]

Did you try to restart after shutting down? If it restarts 2-3 times without any special "trick" I wouldnt worry about it.

I've restarted it a couple times since the initial shutdown and it fires right up with no issues. I guess I won't worry about it if it doesn't reoccur.

Currently investigating homemade load bank options.

 

[CT-Mike]

I also need to check out the fuel tank sending unit, reads 1/2 tank of fuel even with the machine off.

Additionally, there is no power at the convenience outlet. I tried running my air compressor from it, and tripped something. Didn't realize my compressor was rated at 15 amps. Stupid me. Is there a fuse or breaker that needs replacing/resetting? I tried resetting the GFCI with no luck.

http://youtu.be/D7dAFxnkOA4

Thanks in advance.

 

[DieselAddict]

The gauges are balanced coil mechanisms. They don't go to zero when power is removed. They can bounce around and will stop where ever they want.

 

[CT-Mike]

Dieseladdict,

Thanks for that info. I only put around 2 gallons of fuel in it, still reads just above 1/2 whether running or shutdown. I'm thinking I will unbolt and remove the sending unit and test it's resistance before going to much further.

 

[DieselAddict]

I would siphon or drain the fuel out and see if the gauge changes. Or run it and see if the fuel level drops. That is the more fun thing to do.

For the reset you need to open the gauge panel and look to the left. You will see the overload reset on the GFCI there towards the bottom. Push it back in and you should have power at the outlet.

Also the outlet works independently of the main output. You don't need to flip the output switch on the panel to have power at the convenience outlet. It is completely separate from everything else.

 

[CT-Mike]

I would siphon or drain the fuel out and see if the gauge changes. Or run it and see if the fuel level drops. That is the more fun thing to do.

For the reset you need to open the gauge panel and look to the left. You will see the overload reset on the GFCI there towards the bottom. Push it back in and you should have power at the outlet.

Also the outlet works independently of the main output. You don't need to flip the output switch on the panel to have power at the convenience outlet. It is completely separate from everything else.

I am reluctant to run the thing unloaded for too long to prevent wet stacking. I s'pose I could reset the convenience outlet and get out SWMBO's hair dryer for at least a little load.

 

[DieselAddict]

A hair dryer isn't going to be enough load. Unless you run it on low it will probably trip the GFCI again.

I use water heater elements in a bucket of water to load test the machines I work on. Dead simple and it works. There is risk there you need to mitigate. Make sure no one can touch live terminals on the heater elements. I don't have kids or pets running around here so its not so bad.

If that is more than you want to do you can make a pigtail that connects the load terminals out to several 120v outlets. You can buy some really cheap electric heaters to put load on it.

Running it once with light load isn't going to wetstack it. Running it regularly that way will. A couple of 1500w heaters will be enough.

 

[jimbo913]

Probably a stuck relay caused the start issue and is no longer stuck.

 

[CT-Mike]

So the hair dryer on high didn't even deflect the ammeter. Gonna have to build some type of load bank I s'pose.

 

[DieselAddict]

Rig up several of these for a good load - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...ermostat-Portable-Fan-Heater-DQ1409/205202877

 

[CT-Mike]

6 of those would get me up to 9KW, but would cost $120 not including the wiring, outlets, enclosure box, etc. Don't think I want to spend that kind of money.

 

[DieselAddict]

Water heater elements are a lot cheaper for the wattage.