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First attempt at replacing metal

Katahdin

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Finally took the plunge and got a mig welder two weeks ago, after playing around a little bit this was my first attempt at patching a rust hole. The project was the driver's side fender.

Of course everything got a bit more complicated once you got into cutting the metal. I originally thought I could get away with patching it in two places, but a couple spots were too pitted/thin to weld and then found I some rust sandwiched between two sheet metal panels. In the end I welded in 5 patches.

A couple times it burned through, of course, so I used a piece of aluminum behind the area I was welding to prevent that. The steel does not stick to the aluminum and helps dissipate the heat.

On the pieces of metal that were back-to-back, I sprayed on weld-through primer. I also employed magnets to hold the metal in place where I needed. Welding wire was .30, which came with the welder, I understand .25 might be a better size for sheet metal and less prone to burning through because it carries less current. Gas was C25. Welder was a Miller 211 using 110V. I played around a bit with the voltage and wire feed speed as I work on the fender, being a newbie I just couldn't leave that alone. Other tools was a grinder and angle grinder with cutting disks. Thick cutting disks on the angle grinder were also good at grinding down the welds.

Worst mistake was cutting the large patch a little too narrow, it was a PIA to fill in the gap, I won't make that mistake again.

It took a good part of a day to do this, but I enjoyed it and with any luck my skill will get better. :-D
 

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Katahdin

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Yeah, I agree. Initially I thought I could get away with just the one large patch but then had trouble welding it in on those sides due to the pitted metal or hidden rust, so i had to cut it back some more and make more patches.
 

Beerslayer

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That turned out good. Nice work. Were you thinking to use some filler to smooth it out or are you going to just paint what's there?
 

Katahdin

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Thanks and yeah, I already slabbed it with filler, I plan to sand it down and prime the entire fender this weekend.

The perspective I'm taking on the rust is its practice: "Honey, I need to go practice some more on the deuce so I can do a really good job on your car..." :smile:

Well, at least her car is green...
 

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Dave Kay

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Hey now, I'm with you on this thread, hope to see the finished results!

Looking to do some welding/panel-mating myself. Got 2 stepside beds that are beat to hekK with the front parts of one in good shape and parts of the other the rear is in fair shape--- but niether as a whole. So in my newbie mind, I'm thinkin' maybe I can 'Frankenstien' all good pieces together to make one decent bed... (feel free to shoot me down here anytime...)

Anyway, that's the plan, is it feasable?
 

Katahdin

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Thanks nk14zip, I hope to get it to the Maine rally!

Dave - I saw a tank restoration TV show where they took two bombed out Shermans and welded them together in a similar fashion. Also saw an episode of Trucks where they took a C-10 longbed, cut it up, and made it a shortbed. Enough time, patience, skill, I think it can be done. Of course, this is coming from a newbie so take it for what its worth. ;-)
 

ranchhopper

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Nowdays with the newer epoxys and resins on the market they make an epoxy thats just as strong as welding parts together I was a skeptic too until I saw the end results. You can cut your bad metal out and flange the hole and epoxy the patch in it works great no heat warpage I will use this method on the next restoration I do.
 

flyxpl

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Nowdays with the newer epoxys and resins on the market they make an epoxy thats just as strong as welding parts together I was a skeptic too until I saw the end results. You can cut your bad metal out and flange the hole and epoxy the patch in it works great no heat warpage I will use this method on the next restoration I do.
Another advantage to panel bonding adhesive is that when panels are welded on you have bare metal that cannot have corrosion protection put on it . With the adhesive all your covered up bare metal is coated with adhesive , no bare metal to rust . Although a mixture of fiberglass and plastic a Corrvette is glued together .
 

zout

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K - look up a flanging air tool that has the punch on the oposite side of it - very cool tool to assist in these type of panel weld - laying a repair panel inside a flanged piece makes them flush as well.
Good job first time
 

Dave Kay

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Thanks nk14zip, I hope to get it to the Maine rally!

Dave - I saw a tank restoration TV show where they took two bombed out Shermans and welded them together in a similar fashion. Also saw an episode of Trucks where they took a C-10 longbed, cut it up, and made it a shortbed. Enough time, patience, skill, I think it can be done. Of course, this is coming from a newbie so take it for what its worth. ;-)
Thanks K, and as a total fabrication newbie I would've hardly believed some of the mating panel work that's been done until I sat and watched a whole segment on American Chopper where a guy did similar work to fenders and fuel tank. Amazing finish and not a ripple in sight. With some experience, I figure it can be done and like you, I'm game to try.

Hope to see more of your work and good luck!:beer:
 

Katahdin

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Here's the results after sanding down the lightweight body filler and a couple coats of primer. Looks a lot better then a rust hole!

Thanks Z, I think I've seen those but didn't make the welding connection. Another tool to add to the shopping list!

One new tool I tried on this job, besides the welder, was an air powered orbital sander. Now wished I had that earlier on other parts, it was comfortable to use and got into tighter spots then the DA sander I had been using.

FYI, I'm just sanding down the carc before priming, I don't have the time to remove it all and want to make airborne as little of it as possible (I do wear a paint respirator). On the rubberized undercoating I used a small needle scaler to remove the loose stuff.
 

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Katahdin

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Looked to me the fender skin was 18 gauge, but the structure material was 16 gauge.

I used 18 gauge scrap metal from an old desk my Mom had me haul out of her basement last year. I figured it would come in handy when I started to toy with welding. I couldn't find 18 gauge at Tractor Supply, Lowes, or Home Depot, so having the scrap metal on hand worked out great. It sometimes pays to be a pack rat.
 

Katahdin

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Thanks, Maddawg. It took me a long while to tool up to get this far. I had made a long term plan for my wife's MGB restore: First purchase an air compressor, then the air tools, and finally a welder. Somewhere along the line I got distracted and bought a deuce--that set me back at least a year!
 

whyme

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Couldn't agree more. I've been hoarding old metal bed frames, I use it all the time for various small projects and patch work around the yard. Steel is getting had to come by and expensive to buy.
 
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