First MEP-803a

[tarster]

Got my first real runtime with the generator, used just short of a quarter of a tank on roughly 3hrs of run time, Generator was not nearly as loaded as I thought it would be for my house. Running a 3 ton heat pump and the water heater was just under 50% load. The water heater caught up and then I had my wife turn on the oven and all 4 burners on the stove top and I still was not at 80% (100% technically).. Had her start the dryer and it finally started loading up, but never went above 100 on the load meter.

later on I was trying to load it down before shutting down and we turned on the oven, stove top, water heater, Then I turned on 2 oil heaters on max (1500w each) and then turned on another space heater at the unit its self on max, roughly another 1500w or so. I was really surprised it was just staying at 80% load until something click on... not sure if it was oven or what, but something loaded it and it started rolling coal, never popped a breaker, but it did throw some good chunks out of the exhaust, So right now I think I need to way until a colder day and then maybe turn on the aux heat strips on my furnace and load a few other things to really get this loaded heavy for 15 or 20 minutes.


Thanks to @CallMeColt for the aux fuel line fittings, I need to move my diesel tank over near the generator and give that a try now that I have hose and all the correct fittings. Right now is almost the perfect time since I am near empty in the day tank.

Only problem I need to fix right now, my battery charge meter doesnt show anything coming in, so i am not sure if the alternator is not working or whats going on there, Not a big issue as i have a 24v battery tender (noco G15000) so I can keep those topped off for the time being.

 

[kloppk]

Check fuse FU1 behind the gauge panel. It's the fuse on the output of the alternator. It might be popped or missing.

 

[tarster]

Check fuse FU1 behind the gauge panel. It's the fuse on the output of the alternator. It might be popped or missing.

Awesome, thank you! I started going through the TMs to find where the original might be, didn't get far before family responsibilities kicked in

I did measure 24.6 at the hour meter, but I'm not sure if that's regulated if it's not.. makes me think the alternator isn't putting out much juice.

 

[kloppk]

The only DC voltage regulation in the set is the alternators charging regulator.
To check the battery voltage it's best to measure at the Slave Port. It's connected directly to the batteries.
DC voltage behind the control panel will be about 1 volt less than the battery voltage mostly due to the CR1 voltage drop of about 0.7 volts.
I normally measure 28.3 volts at my 802's Slave Port when running and the batteries have recharged after starting.

 

[tarster]

The only DC voltage regulation in the set is the alternators charging regulator.
To check the battery voltage it's best to measure at the Slave Port. It's connected directly to the batteries.
DC voltage behind the control panel will be about 1 volt less than the battery voltage mostly due to the CR1 voltage drop of about 0.7 volts.
I normally measure 28.3 volts at my 802's Slave Port when running and the batteries have recharged after starting.

Good idea on the slave port, that's where I hooked up my battery tender inside, I just unbolted the main leads and hooked up my quick connect there so I can recharge the batterys with the tender I already have.

 

[Ericsdoomsdaygenerator]

Figured I would put post this question here instead of making a new thread, hope you don't mind. I'm also rebuilding a 803-a,. The gasket kit I bought came with two different cranckcase gaskets and i dont know which one to use or to use both (which doesn't seem right) see pics of both. Any tips greatly appreciated.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Figured I would put post this question here instead of making a new thread, hope you don't mind. I'm also rebuilding a 803-a,. The gasket kit I bought came with two different cranckcase gaskets and i dont know which one to use or to use both (which doesn't seem right) see pics of both. Any tips greatly appreciated.

Its best to start your own thread because you are going to have more questions

 

[Ericsdoomsdaygenerator]

Its best to start your own thread because you are going to have more questions

you are def right sir, I dont know how to start my own thread either.

 

[TomTime]

At the top of the SS home page click on "Forums" just to the right of "Home". Now scroll down to about 2/3's of the way and go to "Other Military Machines", Click on "Generators". Scroll down until you see "Generators" in white letters on the left. Look directly to the right and you will see an orange box with a little white square and a pencil/pen in it with words, "POST THREAD". Click on the that box and now you can start a post. Type in your Thread Title and then go to the narrative box below and type away.
Under the narrative box your can post photographs by clicking on "Attach Files" or you can simply drag photographs from your files to the narrative box. After your done and happy with your post, go towards the bottom and click on the other orange box with the square and pencil/pen and "POST THREAD" and your done.
After you post a thread and you want to change/add/delete something there is a "Edit" box.

Good luck,
Tom.

 

[Guyfang]

If you need help, simply write something and then write @Guyfang and it will pop up on my screen. Or use any other moderators name.

 

[tarster]

Eventually I plan on putting this gen under a permanent cover, does anyone know how long of an exhaust you can get away with while still keeping the exhaust flowing sufficiently? I am thinking of extending the pipe by probably 3 or 4 ft if I can.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I would think that 3-4' is a pretty nominal run, so you may be able to just run the stock 1.25" NPT up (or a lighter weight tubing). You may or may not elect to install a piece of flexible exhaust tubing in the run to isolate vibration.

 

[tarster]

I would think that 3-4' is a pretty nominal run, so you may be able to just run the stock 1.25" NPT up (or a lighter weight tubing). You may or may not elect to install a piece of flexible exhaust tubing in the run to isolate vibration.

Perfect, my idea would be to shoot straight up and through the tin roof of the cover and then a 90 degree turn and probably a 6inch run of something like that to keep the Oregon rain out of the pipe

 

[tarster]

Well I think I have a bad alternator, I was probing around last night and the FU1 was showing continuity, along with 24.8 to ground, checked at the slave port as well and got the same results, and then I hooked up behind the alternator at its + stud and went to ground also got the same 24.8v, so I think the alternator is dead.

Do you guys know if they carry a similar one at Napa? or O'Rileys etc?

 

[Ray70]

I assume you did these tests with the machine running... in which case, yes your alternator ( or voltage regulator ) is bad.
Unfortunately you will not find it at your local parts store.
They do come up on ebay and other places from time to time, just make sure you are searching for the right PN. The numbers listed on the back of the regulator are not the PN of the alternator, you want the number from the sticker on the side ( which I don't have handy at the moment )
You could have a Prestolite or Leece Nevil alternator, either will work.
Some members have also had luck getting their old units rebuilt by local armature repair shops, if you have a reputable shop near you, as new units can sometimes be in the $250+ range when available.

 

[Light in the Dark]

You will not find off the shelf anywhere. You should find an alternator shop (preferably one who carries Prestolite) to rebuild what you have.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I assume you did these tests with the machine running... in which case, yes your alternator ( or voltage regulator ) is bad.
Unfortunately you will not find it at your local parts store.
They do come up on ebay and other places from time to time, just make sure you are searching for the right PN. The numbers listed on the back of the regulator are not the PN of the alternator, you want the number from the sticker on the side ( which I don't have handy at the moment )
You could have a Prestolite or Leece Nevil alternator, either will work.
Some members have also had luck getting their old units rebuilt by local armature repair shops, if you have a reputable shop near you, as new units can sometimes be in the $250+ range when available.

That price point has moved up: https://prestolitesuperstore.com/Ca...ternator-8MR-Series-Spool-Mount-type-24V-35A/

Only units I see available right now online. Rebuilding will be cheaper.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Here is who is shown on the Prestolite page... not sure if its helpful.



I would call any local alternator repair shops (if you can even find one) to see if they can service what you have.

 

[Ray70]

Jeeze... prices have gotten even more out of hand since the last one I bought!
If you rebuild, please post up who you end up going with and cost.
I have an untested "core" that I should test and/or rebuild.

 

[2Pbfeet]

One on EBay for about $200

8MR3005C Prestolite 24V / 35AMP Alternator | eBay

HS1-9 IV40-56 PA61-78 ZE. IM IV36 PA41-49 TR21-25. CA18-27 IV30-32 PA20-38 PH49-50. AB53-56 IV14-28 LA15-23 PH30-44. AB44-45 IV9-12 KW PH17-26. AB37-38 IV7 KA27-28 PA80-88.

www.ebay.com

There are other 24V 40A alternators available, but might take some drilling/rewiring. YMMV...