FLU419 Fuel Injection Pump Removal

[Nick30605]

I need to remove the fuel injection pump from my FLU419. Have any of you guys attempted this? If yes, do you have any advice before I get started?

 

[Speedwoble]

Cleanliness is everything on this end of the fuel system.

When it comes time to reinstall the gear to the pump, the manual states something like 240ftlbs. This is way wrong. Ask your rebuilder for the correct torque.

Let me know if you follow the book procedure of timing the new pump. I'm sweating that part.

 

[The FLU farm]

I need to remove the fuel injection pump from my FLU419. Have any of you guys attempted this? If yes, do you have any advice before I get started?

My advice is more of a question: Do you need to, or are you doing it without knowing if you need to?

 

[General Hood]

I need to remove the fuel injection pump from my FLU419. Have any of you guys attempted this? If yes, do you have any advice before I get started?

It would be great if you post photos and notes on the removal and installation of the pump, on this thread. I have not had the need to remove a pump, but luck may have it one of mine may go out next week or next month

 

[Nick30605]

My advice is more of a question: Do you need to, or are you doing it without knowing if you need to?

The driver's side window has this written on it: "Mold in Tank" and "Fuel Pump Inop". I was hoping the guys at Red River Army Depot wrote that initially, then "overhauled" the necessary components to get it running....but that doesn't appear to be the case.
Here's what I've done so far:
Drained all the old diesel from the fuel tank. (I don't see any remaining mold in the tank.)
Put in 10 fresh gallons of diesel with diesel stabilizer.
2 new batteries.
Cleaned out the Diesel sediment bowl.
2 new fuel filters installed.
Air purged from fuel lines.

It tries to start but sounds like it's pulling for something and not receiving anything.
A shot of either gives it a good kick for a moment but then it dies.

I'm guessing I'll need to remove the Fuel Injection Pump and have it rebuilt...not sure if there's any easier or cheaper fix for this?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[The FLU farm]

Nick, I've done those same things, with the same result, a few times now.
What I haven't done is replace the injector pumps. So far it's been air leaks and dirt that kept the engines from starting, or running right.
I'm not saying that your pump is good, but rather that there's a very good chance that it is. Once you have checked and/or replaced each hose and washer, and made sure that the strainer gasket seals properly, then (if it still won't start) it's time to...check all those things again.
I don't remember if it was a separate thread, in the SEE, HMMH, HME thread, or both, but these issues have been discussed and documented with photos fairly well by now.

Okay, go back and look for "FLU fuel issues", a separate thread. It may be a good start, no pun intended.

 

[General Hood]

Nick, I've done those same things, with the same result, a few times now.
What I haven't done is replace the injector pumps. So far it's been air leaks and dirt that kept the engines from starting, or running right.
I'm not saying that your pump is good, but rather that there's a very good chance that it is. Once you have checked and/or replaced each hose and washer, and made sure that the strainer gasket seals properly, then (if it still won't start) it's time to...check all those things again.
I don't remember if it was a separate thread, in the SEE, HMMH, HME thread, or both, but these issues have been discussed and documented with photos fairly well by now.

Okay, go back and look for "FLU fuel issues", a separate thread. It may be a good start, no pun intended.

Agreed. The guys at RRAD are given 30 minutes to get a unit started or it is listed as a non runner at auction. The problem may very well be prior to the injector pump

 

[Nick30605]

Nick, I've done those same things, with the same result, a few times now.
What I haven't done is replace the injector pumps. So far it's been air leaks and dirt that kept the engines from starting, or running right.
I'm not saying that your pump is good, but rather that there's a very good chance that it is. Once you have checked and/or replaced each hose and washer, and made sure that the strainer gasket seals properly, then (if it still won't start) it's time to...check all those things again.
I don't remember if it was a separate thread, in the SEE, HMMH, HME thread, or both, but these issues have been discussed and documented with photos fairly well by now.

Okay, go back and look for "FLU fuel issues", a separate thread. It may be a good start, no pun intended.

I have looked through all those posts previously and spent many hours reading through all the different comments.

 

[The FLU farm]

I have looked through all those posts previously and spent many hours reading through all the different comments.

Good. Now all you need to do is to spend some quality time checking those fuel lines and connections, again.
By the way, if hitting the starter button with your right hand, you can spray the ether into the snorkel intake with your left hand. With a little practice you can keep it running fairly consistently that way.
Have you cracked an injector yet to see if any fuel makes it that far? I haven't had to do that, but it could be telling.

 

[Nick30605]

Good. Now all you need to do is to spend some quality time checking those fuel lines and connections, again.
By the way, if hitting the starter button with your right hand, you can spray the ether into the snorkel intake with your left hand. With a little practice you can keep it running fairly consistently that way.
Have you cracked an injector yet to see if any fuel makes it that far? I haven't had to do that, but it could be telling.

I haven't cracked open an injector yet. I'll give that a try also. Thanks for the tip!

 

[The FLU farm]

Haven't had to look into what makes the fuel shut-off tick, either, but if it's stuck in "off" for some reason...

 

[Nick30605]

-Not sure if this helps but here's a 15 second video of my latest attempt to start.
https://youtu.be/qGzK-efp06s

And a photo of the comments from Red River Army Depot.

This weekend, I will be looking closely at all the items you all mentioned in previous comments.

 

[peakbagger]

Before you pull the pump try my boat tank trick that I have described far too many times. With the squeeze bulb and the boat tank at a higher elevation than the injector pump even if the low pressure fuel tank pump is damaged it should be able to run off the boat tank. I didn't need to do it but you could hook up downstream of he primer If it does start and run even if you have to pump the squeeze bulb than you are back to chasing either a bed fuel pump or air leaks in the lines.

Once you remove an injection pump, its time to decide if you want to buy a new out of the box one from expeditions imports or have a Bosch pro rebulld it, either way its not cheap.

I do seem to remember that the only way the pump comes out is if the engine is turned to specific point of rotation using the timing marks as reference. If you try to take it out with the engine in the wrong place bad things happen.

 

[Nick30605]

Thanks for the advice guys!

 

[The FLU farm]

There could be another reason for a non-starter. I just remembered unscrewing the wingnut on the air cleaner, for whatever reason, while the engine was running.
That lid practically had to be pried off because of the negative pressure inside. Made me wonder if that is how it's supposed to be, or if there's a restriction in the intake.
If the restriction is high enough, the engine probably wouldn't start.

 

[Nick30605]

There could be another reason for a non-starter. I just remembered unscrewing the wingnut on the air cleaner, for whatever reason, while the engine was running.
That lid practically had to be pried off because of the negative pressure inside. Made me wonder if that is how it's supposed to be, or if there's a restriction in the intake.
If the restriction is high enough, the engine probably wouldn't start.

It's funny that you bring that up. Currently, I have the snorkel disconnected due to some wiring that I'm repairing from a mouse/rat chewing on it. I was spraying ether directly into the intake. I'll put it all back together and see what happens.

 

[Nick30605]

Good. Now all you need to do is to spend some quality time checking those fuel lines and connections, again.
By the way, if hitting the starter button with your right hand, you can spray the ether into the snorkel intake with your left hand. With a little practice you can keep it running fairly consistently that way.
Have you cracked an injector yet to see if any fuel makes it that far? I haven't had to do that, but it could be telling.

I opened up an injector (see photo).

I pumped the fuel primer several times, but nothing happened. -Should fuel pour out of this area while pumping the fuel primer?

 

[General Hood]

I opened up an injector (see photo).
View attachment 687858
I pumped the fuel primer several times, but nothing happened. -Should fuel pour out of this area while pumping the fuel primer?

Open up the bleed valve on the filter housing and pump the primer to see if you get fuel to that point. If you do, you can narrow down the possibilities

 

[The FLU farm]

I pumped the fuel primer several times, but nothing happened.

Several times? There's been times when I stopped counting pump strokes at 100. Which inspired me to plumb in an electric pump, and later why I pressurize the tank.
You may have a simple air leak at the tank or strainer at this point, that's all it takes to require lots of pumping. Often with no result whatsoever.
And like Sir Hood pointed out, it has to get to the filters first...I don't remember if you had fuel going that far.

 

[Nick30605]

Open up the bleed valve on the filter housing and pump the primer to see if you get fuel to that point. If you do, you can narrow down the possibilities

-Just tried that. I opened the bleed valve on the fuel filter housing and started pumping. Fuel flowed quickly out of the bleed valve screws.
I'm going to drip some Diesel Fuel Injector Cleaner at the top of each injector in hopes that it will creep through the injectors and liquefy any crud or gum that may be in the injector.