FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

Nice!
Are you the owner of the one in the background, too, or is that photo from where you picked yours up?
And don't forget to add a little air to the left rear - it looks a bit low.

 

[peakbagger]

Nice photo , I prefer the straight olive drab paint scheme on yours compared to my full Nato camo paint job on mine.

 

[General Hood]

Nice!
Are you the owner of the one in the background, too, or is that photo from where you picked yours up?
And don't forget to add a little air to the left rear - it looks a bit low.

Photo was taken at the GP yard. The hood was laying on the ground . some lights don't work and need replacement batteries.

 

[The FLU farm]

Don't toss those batteries quite yet. With correct charging (low amps) and desulfation, you just might be able to make them usable again.
And if you prefer function over originality, I've replaced almost all the work lights with the cheap, round LED ones from Amazon.

 

[peakbagger]

The prior owner of mine installed AGM batteries, definitely a nice upgrade over conventional batteries

I do find that lot of the exterior lighting connectors have dry rot and other issues. The lights may work it just may be the wiring going to them.

Good luck on the aquistion. I wouldn't try to print the tech manuals unless you have a lot of spare time at work. It works a lot better to download them in acrobat and use the search function. I didn't think I ever would use a laptop to work on vehicle but when I had to repair the harness, it was the way to go.

 

[General Hood]

The prior owner of mine installed AGM batteries, definitely a nice upgrade over conventional batteries

I do find that lot of the exterior lighting connectors have dry rot and other issues. The lights may work it just may be the wiring going to them.

Good luck on the aquistion. I wouldn't try to print the tech manuals unless you have a lot of spare time at work. It works a lot better to download them in acrobat and use the search function. I didn't think I ever would use a laptop to work on vehicle but when I had to repair the harness, it was the way to go.

There was a huge stack of TMs on the passenger seat, still wrapped in cellophane. I guess it was thrown in as a bonus. I expected the accessory bins to be vacant, but surprised to see a lot of the hydraulic accessories in place. I checked to make sure no one was looking then did a little Snoopy dance

 

[The FLU farm]

Has anyone else tried crossing a ditch with a SEE, using the "normal backhoe method"?
In other words, lift the rear axle across the ditch using the backhoe, then get in the cab, lower the loader and let it slide on the bucket while backing up, letting the front axle get across.

I tried that the other day, in an effort to save time, and it failed miserably.
The loader didn't even try to hold up the front end when the axle reached the 24-inch wide, 30-inch deep ditch.
Yes, it resulted in a decent stuck, which I eventually got out of by extending the backhoe all the way out, taking weight off the front axle. Not easily by any means, but unstuck nevertheless.

I knew that the loader was kind of wimpy, but are all of them really this bad? Is it by design (a safety issue), or a bad relief valve maybe?

 

[Another Ahab]

That sounds like a neat trick.

IF it would work.

 

[The FLU farm]

Hey, you just made the coin fall down!
Why the heck wouldn't it work if closing the valves after lowering the bucket?? Might break some parts, but...
I'll have to try that.
Stay tuned for more stuck stories - and this time I'll try to remember to take a picture of the (potentially) resulting mishap.

 

[General Hood]

Hey, you just made the coin fall down!
Why the heck wouldn't it work if closing the valves after lowering the bucket?? Might break some parts, but...
I'll have to try that.
Stay tuned for more stuck stories - and this time I'll try to remember to take a picture of the (potentially) resulting mishap.

I've walked backhoes over ditches many times, but the SEE is new to me so look forward to hearing your experimentations prior to making any attempt with my new toy. On a different note, the seller asked me why I wasn't just driving the FLU419 home from the lot, after all it starts and runs? I said sure, I can visualize myself driving down I-30 with the front bucket up in the air dodging the rest of the traffic driving 75 mph.

 

[peakbagger]

I have seen several comments over the years by ex military folks who drive SEEs and they all said a change of short was mandatory for driving much of 35 MPH. Apparently once they start pitching back and forth, they are handful. I have had mine up to 30 and its fine going straight but even on a gentle curve, the truck leans significantly. Unimogs in general are fairly infamous for rolling over and until they fit the ROPS cage, apparently the cab would not protect a driver from much. I expect the FOPS will also help in a sideways roll.

I have noticed that the back pillars of the cab has what looks like a threaded insert for a shoulder harness, if I could find a three point retractable belt I would consider installing it.

I have to register mine as construction equipment so no interstates for me, even if I was stupid enough to try it.

 

[General Hood]

I have seen several comments over the years by ex military folks who drive SEEs and they all said a change of short was mandatory for driving much of 35 MPH. Apparently once they start pitching back and forth, they are handful. I have had mine up to 30 and its fine going straight but even on a gentle curve, the truck leans significantly. Unimogs in general are fairly infamous for rolling over and until they fit the ROPS cage, apparently the cab would not protect a driver from much. I expect the FOPS will also help in a sideways roll.

I have noticed that the back pillars of the cab has what looks like a threaded insert for a shoulder harness, if I could find a three point retractable belt I would consider installing it.

I have to register mine as construction equipment so no interstates for me, even if I was stupid enough to try it.

Agreed, I was in no hurry to make the 6 oclock news, on the trailer it went, and rode to it's new home. Even a conventional backhoe will buck once you hit a certain speed

 

[The FLU farm]

I have no experience with a regular backhoe so I'm learning as I go here, but it sure seems like not having suspension would be a good thing.
One of these years I'll figure out a simple way to at least limit the droop in the rear.

30 mph is probably the fastest I've driven my SEE, but it was primarily the high rpm (in my mind) that kept me from going faster. The HMMH, by the way, feels rock solid in comparison.

Using a 3-point belt? I think I'd rather be able to duck down, if that's possible under the circumstances, than being more or less stuck in the upright position.
After all, isn't the main virtue of the 3-point belts to help in frontal collisions?
But if you want a retractable 3-point, I'd guess that a '73 through '87 GM pickup (for example) would fit fine.

 

[peakbagger]

I have avoided "eating" a steering wheel in the past a few times with a shoulder harness plus the potential injuries from a lap belt only (snaps the spinal cord and guaranteed paralysis) is something I would rather not deal with.

I would be tempted in looking at industrial air springs in place of coil over for these trucks to stiffen them up. The issue may be the length of travel. There is already an air system so a retrofit may not be that difficult, I used to size air springs on rare occasions for papermachines which is very severe service and they lasted for years.

Then again mine is still under a tarp waiting for the ground to dry up enough to move it, plus I have the parts I bought to switch it over to a dessicant air dryer so no other mods until I get working on it.

 

[tennmogger]

Case Equipment made a suspension lockout to use on the MB-4/94. Basically it was a link with bearing to the outerhub, tied to the Case deck. During development of the SEE, there was a suspension lockout accomplished by using hydraulic cylinders as lockable links. That idea could be easily implemented by using remote reservoir shocks with a valve in the interconnecting hose.

Edit: the purpose was to lock the suspension for using the implements, not for driving. Slowing down was the technique recommended for driving with the implements LOL . Using the robust anti-sway system helps tremendously. I do not know what the SEE has. Trying to use the front loader with a sprung vehicle is challenging. 'Virgin' digging is virtually impossible, loading or moving loose material on a harder surface works well.

 

[The FLU farm]

At the speeds I'm driving the SEE, I don't think that a spinal cord injury is likely, and (so far) most rollovers I've been in has been with a lap belt. Plus a few without anything.

I've thought about using air springs to suck the suspension up, like a lift axle, but a straight swap of coil for air wouldn't help me. One problem with the stock suspension is that it allows for a lot of side to side movement, which can be a bit unnerving, the other that I have to lift the rear quite high with the backhoe to rotate the hoe's pivot point over the ditch. And, of course, back again. Still far from comfortable when doing that.
I think it would all work better for me if the rear suspension could be locked, preferably in the up position.

I've obviously been eyeballing the HMMH's front lockout setup, but finding an extra set of those parts probably isn't easy.
Might look into using hydraulic cylinders instead of shocks, but I need to figure out the hose routing and such.

 

[Foxyjosh]

Has anyone tried using a single 24v battery instead of a pair of 12volts?
Also, I am looking for a hose. the NSN is: 4720-01-237-0167 It is part of the hydraulic clutch system. I need one and I keep striking out.

edit: One more thing, I need fuses for under the hood. If someone could snap a picture of their fuse bar it would help tremendously,

 

[peakbagger]

I would suggest looking in tech manuals for the fuse box arrangement. I know on mine, the installed fuses didn't match what they were supposed to be.

 

[profo]

I put 365/85/20 on mine and it improved the ride and driveabilty great can drive at 45 with no rock horse ride, and is much more stable, it killed the acceleration but improved the top cruise speed considerably!

 

[The FLU farm]

Has anyone tried using a single 24v battery instead of a pair of 12volts?

What would be the purpose?
Indeed, each connection is a potential trouble spot, so there would be a 50% reduction in those, but other than that I can't see any advantage over having the lower cost and extra capacity of dual 12 Volt batteries.