FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

If I get around to replacing mine with three separate valves, you can have mine. If you can wait that long...it's been on the list for a few years.

 

[Toolee]

Quick Q on the thumb from Titan, what size did you go with and having used it now would you go larger , smaller stay the same? Thanks

I got the 32-inch Extreme Weld-On thumb. I haven't seens any reason to go bigger, but then I have not put a lot of hours on it. Works fine for picking up logs and rocks. If I were using it all the time I might go with something fancier like an Amulet hoe clamp or a hydraulic unit.

 

[Toolee]

Mystery Center Attachment Point

Anybody know what this substantial lump found right there in the middle might be? There are plastic caps in each side of the hole, so it was important enough to protect. My guess is that it is either for other 419 attachments or something left over from the "plain" 406 platform. The heavy rod "handle" just above it confuses me too--it looks like someone has chained down the SEE with it, but there are two perfectly good tie-down eyes on each side of that location. Is that what that piece is supposed to be used for? I am thinking I might possibly use the first bit as part of a future, fabricated 3-point lift.

 

[The FLU farm]

Anybody know what this substantial lump found right there in the middle might be?

Not sure what it's supposed to be for, but I bought large shackles a while back that will go on there for towing/extraction purposes.
Still haven't figured out the best way to enlarge the inside of the 1.8-inch shackle opening to 2-plus inches, though.

 

[Pinsandpitons]

Three point something?

 

[The FLU farm]

I'd think more towing related, especially since that "handle" would lend itself well to holding safety chains.

While I've considered making something that'd fit an upside down 3-point, using the locks and that tab, I have yet to think of any use for it. Not being able to adjust the height easily being the biggest drawback.
That the height would vary with suspension movement is a close second.

The guys on the civilian side probably knows what the tab is for...if the regular 'Mogs have them.

 

[911joeblow]

So forgive my overall inexperience with air brake systems but when your trucks are running does your unloader valve constantly bleed off at the bottom whenever the truck is running, whether or not it is at the set pressure? I am trying to get to the bottom of the slow pressure build up in my truck. I know the alcohol injector is not is great shape but I cant see the unloader helping to build pressure fast when it keeps pulsing air out the bottom all the time!

BTW I hooked an air compressor line to the side valve on the unloader and got system pressure fast but the unloader is still venting out the bottom all the time.

 

[The FLU farm]

My HMMH has started doing that, on and off. I strongly suspect that the regulator is dirty. It's not an obstruction downstream, that I checked for.
Normally there shouldn't be any air escaping until pressure is built up in the system, but as mentioned, sometimes that unloader valve just "puffs" air out, which makes it take a very long time to reach the set pressure.

I suppose I should fix it before winter, should 4WD be needed.

 

[911joeblow]

My HMMH has started doing that, on and off. I strongly suspect that the regulator is dirty. It's not an obstruction downstream, that I checked for.
Normally there shouldn't be any air escaping until pressure is built up in the system, but as mentioned, sometimes that unloader valve just "puffs" air out, which makes it take a very long time to reach the set pressure.

I suppose I should fix it before winter, should 4WD be needed.

That was my assumption that it is time for a rebuild. The kits are available so here I go! Next is whether or not to keep the alcohol system or go to an air drier setup with a purge valve. It looks like it is about the same money as buying a new Mog set-up. Of course I am sure it will take some engineering to work out how to get it working right too.

 

[The FLU farm]

That was my assumption that it is time for a rebuild. The kits are available so here I go! Next is whether or not to keep the alcohol system or go to an air drier setup with a purge valve. It looks like it is about the same money as buying a new Mog set-up. Of course I am sure it will take some engineering to work out how to get it working right too.

You may not need the alky system. I've been running without one on the Summer SEE ever since I "borrowed" the parts to put on the Winter SEE. Not that it's been used all that much in below freezing temps, but still.

I think peakbagger has the air dryer setup figured out. Try searching for "air dryer" in this thread.

 

[911joeblow]

You may not need the alky system. I've been running without one on the Summer SEE ever since I "borrowed" the parts to put on the Winter SEE. Not that it's been used all that much in below freezing temps, but still.

I think peakbagger has the air dryer setup figured out. Try searching for "air dryer" in this thread.

I live up at 8000 ft in the Uinta Mountain in Utah so I am going to need something to keep the water out. I will look back in the thread...

 

[The FLU farm]

I live up at 8000 ft in the Uinta Mountain in Utah so I am going to need something to keep the water out. I will look back in the thread...

Maybe. You have me beat by some 500 feet.

 

[peakbagger]

I have the parts for an air dryer install but still haven't installed them as I park the SEE in the winter. Too many projects.

If you are planning to use the SEE in near freezing temps you need either an air dryer or alcohol injection. Plenty of simple alcohol injectors available instead of buying the OEM, the biggest hassle is figuring which thread adaptors are needed. I did get a suggestion that I might have issues installing the air dryer where the alcohol injector and pressure regulator is located as its is too close to the engine and could cause the air to be too hot. The air dryer has a pressure regulator built into it.

Since I don't use the trailer brakes, I think I could remove the alcohol injector, air pressure regulator, trailer brake air tank and a boatload of fittings by installing the air dryer/regulator where the trailer brake air tank resides. I would still need a high pressure purge tank but would plumb it up for it to sit where the tool box buried down at the back of the cab resides (later SEEs apparently don't have this toolbox?). I wish I had more documentation or understanding of what pressure air the dryer needs for a purge as it sure would be a lot easier to just tap it off the remaining air tank. Installing the dryer near the air tanks would also increase the distance between the engine air compressor and the dryer would help cool the air down but would leave a low point in the air lines, so I might still need a manual bleed valve to drain the low spot.

 

[911joeblow]

Maybe. You have me beat by some 500 feet.

 

[911joeblow]

I have the parts for an air dryer install but still haven't installed them as I park the SEE in the winter. Too many projects.

If you are planning to use the SEE in near freezing temps you need either an air dryer or alcohol injection. Plenty of simple alcohol injectors available instead of buying the OEM, the biggest hassle is figuring which thread adaptors are needed. I did get a suggestion that I might have issues installing the air dryer where the alcohol injector and pressure regulator is located as its is too close to the engine and could cause the air to be too hot. The air dryer has a pressure regulator built into it.

Since I don't use the trailer brakes, I think I could remove the alcohol injector, air pressure regulator, trailer brake air tank and a boatload of fittings by installing the air dryer/regulator where the trailer brake air tank resides. I would still need a high pressure purge tank but would plumb it up for it to sit where the tool box buried down at the back of the cab resides (later SEEs apparently don't have this toolbox?). I wish I had more documentation or understanding of what pressure air the dryer needs for a purge as it sure would be a lot easier to just tap it off the remaining air tank. Installing the dryer near the air tanks would also increase the distance between the engine air compressor and the dryer would help cool the air down but would leave a low point in the air lines, so I might still need a manual bleed valve to drain the low spot.

I do like the idea of going with an air direr with purge but dealing with all the metric to AN to SAE fittings, hard lines, CARC paint all seems like an alternative to waterboarding. That being said I think from my limited understanding of the drier set-up, the trailer tank could be used as the purge tank. I would place the drier where the regulator and Alc Injector are. For the price those are going for I could be ahead $400 before even opening a fitting.

 

[The FLU farm]

I did get a suggestion that I might have issues installing the air dryer where the alcohol injector and pressure regulator is located as its is too close to the engine and could cause the air to be too hot. The air dryer has a pressure regulator built into it.

That should be one problem that's easy to fix. It's not a matter of the distance between the engine and dryer that counts, it's the length of the hose between them.
On my Peterbilt, which has a far more meaningful compressor, about the first four feet or so has to be a braided hose (for temperature reasons), but then regular hose is used for the remaining run to the dryer.
It does help that on the Pete the compressor sits up high, so it was easy to make an all downhill run.

 

[FarmMOG]

I have the parts for an air dryer install but still haven't installed them as I park the SEE in the winter. Too many projects.

If you are planning to use the SEE in near freezing temps you need either an air dryer or alcohol injection. Plenty of simple alcohol injectors available instead of buying the OEM, the biggest hassle is figuring which thread adaptors are needed. I did get a suggestion that I might have issues installing the air dryer where the alcohol injector and pressure regulator is located as its is too close to the engine and could cause the air to be too hot. The air dryer has a pressure regulator built into it.

Since I don't use the trailer brakes, I think I could remove the alcohol injector, air pressure regulator, trailer brake air tank and a boatload of fittings by installing the air dryer/regulator where the trailer brake air tank resides. I would still need a high pressure purge tank but would plumb it up for it to sit where the tool box buried down at the back of the cab resides (later SEEs apparently don't have this toolbox?). I wish I had more documentation or understanding of what pressure air the dryer needs for a purge as it sure would be a lot easier to just tap it off the remaining air tank. Installing the dryer near the air tanks would also increase the distance between the engine air compressor and the dryer would help cool the air down but would leave a low point in the air lines, so I might still need a manual bleed valve to drain the low spot.

The air system on my FLU uses the trailer brake air tank pressure to run all the air powered accessories, like transmission splitter, 4WD, etc. If you remove that system, you would have to connect the accessory line to the main air tank. I know this is different than the student handout diagram, but unfortunately how mine is rigged.

 

[911joeblow]

The air system on my FLU uses the trailer brake air tank pressure to run all the air powered accessories, like transmission splitter, 4WD, etc. If you remove that system, you would have to connect the accessory line to the main air tank. I know this is different than the student handout diagram, but unfortunately how mine is rigged.

The more I look at this the more it seems there would be two requirements. One, you will need another reservoir for the purge function. This can be a smaller tank mounted on the passenger side. Two, you will need a purge governor added into the system to switch the pump to vent to atmosphere for 20-30 seconds minimum for a purge cycle to occur. Our European standard system uses a constant run pump which is NOT well suited to these types of driers. Normally the pump is turned off during the purge cycle, but ours cant do that being mechanically driven direct off the engine.

I am now leaning toward a rebuild of my regulator, and a replacement of my alcohol valve. I think that running air brake antifreeze vs just rubbing alcohol will keep the new alcohol injector from corroding and failing like my original. The air brake antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors in it.

 

[The FLU farm]

One, you will need another reservoir for the purge function. This can be a smaller tank mounted on the passenger side. Two, you will need a purge governor added into the system to switch the pump to vent to atmosphere for 20-30 seconds minimum for a purge cycle to occur. Our European standard system uses a constant run pump which is NOT well suited to these types of driers. Normally the pump is turned off during the purge cycle, but ours cant do that being mechanically driven direct off the engine.

All Class 8 tractors I've seen work that way, a gear driven compressor feeds the dryer, then the dryer feeds the so-called wet tank, and then pressure gets distributed from it.
No special purge tank, stopping the compressor, or anything like that.

 

[Pinsandpitons]

Am I missing something? Everyone seams bent out of shape over how the RRAD forklift bends in the rear thrust bars must be straightened before driving the SEE. As long as they're not severely bent (or only one) I just don't see how they could do much damage to the axle internals. There is no flexible joint they could impact. One end bolts to the axle tube near the hub the other on the torque tube behind the thrust bearing boot. Yes the torque tube mount to the differential is experiencing a bending moment, but as long as there aren't broken bolts or evidence of leakage (indicating movement), I just don't see what the big deal is. Granted, like I said, if they're really torqued up (again with the puns) I could see fixing them, but just a little beyond straight doesn't look like a big deal to me. What do I not know here?