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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
The new Oregon bars were so inexpensive I decided to go that route. If I can't find a new bar for a reasonable price, I will try to de-rust my current bar as you suggest.
I started de-rusting my current 160ATSA195 Oregon bar that came on the chainsaw and which is the correct bar. The bar has damage from the jack hammer laying on top of it. I've now trashed it. As I mentioned, Oregon has no records of manufacturing this model. I talked to someone else at Oregon and they told me the military specified this bar and it was discontinued many years ago and was never sold on the civilian market. I found another Oregon bar, 160PXDK095, which is identical with the original except it has a sprocket on the end of the bar. The original has a hardened insert on the bar end and no sprocket. I found one on Ebay, new but open box, for $30.00. I've already received it. It works fine, but Oregon Customer Service has informed me that it is a discontinued product. The next problem is the chain. My original chain is in good condition, but I wanted to go ahead and get a spare. The problem with the chain is that it was discontinued as well due to the short length of 59 links. You can always get one made from a long chain shortened to the correct length. I found a place on Amazon that had a 72V059G chain the correct length and specs. I ordered the last one. Oregon told me the 72V059G chain is being discontinued as well. The specs for the bar and chain are as follows.
Length: 16 Inches
Gauge: 0.050
Pitch: 3/8 Inch (Must be 72 Series Chain)
Links: 59
One can always replace the original 16 Inch bar with a longer bar, such as an 18 Inch bar, for a Model CS06 Stanley saw in which case the bars and chains are readily available. However, with the longer bar, the saw won't fit properly inside the space provided in the plastic storage tray located in the bottom of the SEE storage cabinet, probably not important to most. I also tried to buy a new plastic sheath for the chainsaw bar. It isn't available. It was thin plastic and special ordered by the military so that the bar would fit inside the plastic tray. The 16 Inch civilian ones are readily available, but are thick plastic which precludes using it with the storage tray.

By the way, Oregon Customer Service has now temporarily shut down due to the proximity of fires in the area.
Chainsaw.JPG
 
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Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
433
205
43
Location
Lynchburg, VA
You might consider the option you mentioned of a custom chain. I got a carbide chain made up for mine. Wasn't cheap but that thing will cut for days so long as it never touches anything harder than wood. To illustrate how badass carbide chains are: I used to buy trees by the 18 wheeler load for firewood. I'd cut the entire truckload and then some. Swap chains for the next season. Go this way a year or two, and then get new chains when they were too stretched to be safe. Carbide is Not cheap but it's amazing when used properly.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I'm wondering about the grill for a FLU419 SEE. If you look at Item 21 on the attachment, a grill of sorts is shown in the TM. The TM calls it (Panel, Ventilation). My SEE does not have this. Actually, I have never seen a SEE with this installed. Does anyone have a SEE that has this grill? My SEE was rebuilt in 2005 and perhaps the Army has been removing them. I don't even see any attachments where this can be attached.
 

Attachments

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Thanks for the photos. You have a very nice looking truck! The grill looks like something I can easily fabricate. Is it constructed out of plastic or metal?
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I'm finally making some great progress on my SEE. I now have brakes after repairing the pneumatic system. The crossover pipe was corroded solid. I decided to go with a 10 mm 316 stainless steel replacement. Unfortunately, I had to purchase a Ridgid 10 mm tubing bender, which I will now likely put up for sale once I make certain I have no further need for it. My Bosch unloader was also not functioning properly. Expedition Imports wanted $690.00 + shipping for a replacement. I found a replacement on Ebay for $49.44 with free shipping. It was a new WA9753034730 from National Drivetrain. It was a direct replacement with the exception of the cutoff pressure. However, backing off the adjustment screw exactly one full turn resulted in 105 PSI. After installing the unloader and crossover pipe, the pneumatic system functions well, except for two minor issues.
1. All three drain valves are leaking slightly. I've ordered replacements from EI.
2. The 10 mm tubing adapter connecting to the crossover pipe has a very slight leak due to corrosion. I have ordered what I think is the correct stainless steel replacement. Interestingly, the fittings on my SEE do not match what is shown in the TM, but mine appear to be original since they have the MB logo stamped on them.
The best thing is that since I now have air pressure, I have brakes and I can now test the shifting of the transmission, differential lock and 4X4. It all works perfectly. I was concerned that more than the crossover pipe and unloader valve might be corroded internally and non-functional. I got lucky.10 mm Cross Tube.JPGNew Unloader.JPG
 

Speedwoble

Well-known member
606
301
63
Location
New Holland, PA
I'm finally making some great progress on my SEE. I now have brakes after repairing the pneumatic system. The crossover pipe was corroded solid. I decided to go with a 10 mm 316 stainless steel replacement. Unfortunately, I had to purchase a Ridgid 10 mm tubing bender, which I will now likely put up for sale once I make certain I have no further need for it.
I have the crossover tube, premade, in stainless, in the SEE accessories thread.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
All three drain valves are leaking slightly. I've ordered replacements from EI. [/QUOTE]

Generally you can just clean out the ones you have to stop the leakage. Or replace them with affordable ball valves.
 
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