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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Based on the serial number alone (provided original), it was a produced prior to 04/90. My best guess is late 89.
Since the 10th digit in the VIN is 'J' the production date was 1988. The 10th digit is the key to production dates for most VINs.

A = 2010
B = 1981 or 2011
C = 1982 or 2012
D = 1983 or 2013
E = 1984 or 2014
F = 1985 or 2015
G = 1986 or 2016
H = 1987 or 2017
I = Not Used
J = 1988
K = 1089
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
O = Not Used
P = 1993
Q = Not Used
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
U = Not Used
V = 1997
W = 1998
X = 1999
Y = 2000
1 = 2001
2 = 2002
3 = 2003
4 = 2004
5 = 2005
6 = 2006
7 = 2007
8 = 2008
9 = 2009

 

Pinsandpitons

Active member
162
54
28
Location
Central Washington
should update to woodbagger

I know they contemplated a sandbag filling bucket... maybe a wood splitting bucket should be your next project. Throw a round in and it comes out split. Totally safe.
 

Pinsandpitons

Active member
162
54
28
Location
Central Washington
I’ve been looking at quick attach mounts for my SEE and I find various load ratings but none that I’m stoked on. I don’t remember if that topic has come up before ( search skills not up to it ). Anyone using a mount they are happy actually using?
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
It'd be very easy to beef any of them up with some extra material welded in at the appropriate spots, should you decide it's needed.
My palletforks.com version is still doing fine, by the way.
 

jeanmaurice

New member
8
3
3
Location
Yorktown VA
If you own a SEE, HMMH or HME Tractor please let us know.
419.101 SEE 2086 ea., 419.102 HME 13 ea., 419.103 HMMH 164 ea., 419.104 HME 153 ea.
Post name, Town, State, country, email, phone,first 9 digit of frame no. or what you think/like to build a network of
FLU419 owners.
HI new 419 owner: Jean-Maurice Poitras, 110 Janis Dr. , Yorktown, Va 23692. celll/msg. 757-218-7182. jeanmaurice262@msn.com. 1990 FLU 419. 451659 number on rebuild 2005. Unfortunately, I am having transmission issues: gear shift wobbly and won't go into 2nd and will pop out of other gears. I bought a bushing for the shifter from Expedition Imports and I think this may be the problem. But I will need help getting the bushing in. From what I've read it is somewhat challenging to do--to get the gear shift out and put the bushing back in. I was wondering if there is any one I could contact in my local area who knows about this. I live in yorktown, VA about 30 miles from Norfolk, VA.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
Time for some "tough love". This repair has been documented multiple times on this thread. yes it is monster thread but if you buy a SEE, there is much useful stuff on it. Bite the bullet and go through the entire thread. Take notes on where you see items of interest and note the post numbers. The reality is if you bought a SEE, you also bought becoming its chief and only mechanic, there is no dealer to bail you out and if you pay a mechanic you are paying him to get educated on something he has never seen before on your dime. If you dont have the interest in wrenching on it yourself, might as well sell it now and avoid the pain. SEEs do require maintenance, repairs related to very long storage and abuse and I expect the guy down the road may help you out initially but at some point will figure out that you are not willing to spend the time to DIY repairs.

I am not trying to be a d**k about this and hoping you will rise to the challenge. Every successful repair leads to more confidence and if you run into a roadblock you cant solve let us know about it and maybe someone else has seen it before.
 

jeanmaurice

New member
8
3
3
Location
Yorktown VA
Can you put bushing in without tilting the cab.? I saw a post by "coolhandmatt in 2016 addressing this very problem. Are you still around, sir?
Thanks for the sobering reply, but when I bought it I realized that I'd probably have to become primary mechanic. I will look at the threads. I'm still figuring out how to navigate this site.
Of course my concern here, is that I need more than a paragraph or two on the procedure of replacing the bushing. The posts I referred to were from 2016 so I'm not even sure if these guys are still around. Apart from my bushing problem (pretty sure this is the issue) my vehicle is in good serviceable shape. 112 miles when purchased. I do want to get out there and start using it.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
All you need to do is go to page 1 of this thread, and as peakbagger pointed out, take notes.
As I recall, there are also photos of the shifter bushing procedure.

During the breaks in the lengthy reading, I would start with checking and/or replacing all the fluids, and lubing everything.
Once that is taken care of, you can get out there and start using it. Hopefully.
 

mberetta

Member
39
1
8
Location
Utah
I had put my injection pump project on hold for a while. I am moving and needed to get some remodeling done on the house.

Last night I went out to remove the bad injection pump. Following the TM I turned the engine over by hand (at least 50 times out of frustration, literally) to align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the timing mark on the injection pump drive gear and it's corresponding arrow. The 2 different marks never lined up correctly at any time. Every other time when I had the vibration damper on mark, the injection pump drive gear mark would be two teeth off of the arrow. I can only conclude that the pump was previously installed 2 teeth off target. The radiator was clearly removed previously and the entire fuel system had clearly been messed with previously.

Injection pump timing.jpg

Without being able to trust the previous installation of my injection pump I cannot tell when No. 1 CYLINDER is on start of delivery in impression stroke.
So, here is my question. Without relying on the pump to tell me what stroke No. 1 CYLINDER is on, how can I know when I'm in the correct position?
 

mberetta

Member
39
1
8
Location
Utah
remove injector to determine compression stroke.
remove valve cover and watch valves.
Thanks for confirming my thoughts. I was figuring I would need to remove the valve cover. Are these gaskets durable enough to be reused? Also the TM refers to the "IMPRESSION STROKE". I've never heard of impression stroke. I was assuming that was the intake stroke. Can anyone confirm? I searched all the TMs and that is the only reference to "IMPRESSION STROKE" found in all of them.
 
Last edited:

Speedwoble

Well-known member
606
301
63
Location
New Holland, PA
Thanks for confirming my thoughts. I was figuring I would need to remove the valve cover. Are these gaskets durable enough to be reused? Also the TM refers to the "IMPRESSION STROKE". I've never heard of impression stroke. I was assuming that was the intake stroke. Can anyone confirm? I searched all the TMs and that is the only reference to "IMPRESSION STROKE" found in all of them.
There are typos in the manual. The torque value for the nut holding the gear to the injector pump is one. I wouldn’t be surprised if they had a spelling error as well.
 

mberetta

Member
39
1
8
Location
Utah
There are typos in the manual. The torque value for the nut holding the gear to the injector pump is one. I wouldn’t be surprised if they had a spelling error as well.
If it is a typo, then I must assume it was an attempt to write compression stroke and maybe got spell corrected to impression. I know that some of you have also replaced your injection pumps. Any memories on this?
 
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