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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

glcaines

Well-known member
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Hiawassee, Georgia
If you lost the remote switch’s and fans you probably blew the fuse .
I had to wire brush all of the fuse terminals with a brass wire wheel on a Dremel tool, replace all fuses with new and coat fuses and terminals with dielectric grease to make everything work on mine. No electrical problems since. I got the fuses from Expedition Imports.
 

rtrask

Well-known member
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63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
If you lost the remote switch’s and fans you probably blew the fuse .
Maybe, but I did not lose them, they never worked. I have gone through all the fuses earlier, but I have not checked it specifically when the weather got warm and I have been using it hard. At one point the cylinder was getting pretty warm so I decided I better see if I could get the fans to work. I used my Power Probe II and proved that the fans work, and my multi tester showed that there was no power getting to what I assume is the thermostat. Time is getting short, and I have already lost a lot of time resolving hydraulic issues, and I am hard pressed for time. I took what I think/thought was the most expedient route.
 

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
I had to wire brush all of the fuse terminals with a brass wire wheel on a Dremel tool, replace all fuses with new and coat fuses and terminals with dielectric grease to make everything work on mine. No electrical problems since. I got the fuses from Expedition Imports.
I went through a similar process with a wire brush, vinegar salt and baking soda.
 

Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Lynchburg, VA
I had issues with cooler on back of mine at first, too. There's a place on the fans,under a shroud/cover where the wires come together for the 2 fans. It's right there at/on the fan housing. I took that cover off, cleaned up the slight oxidation on the terminals, and it started working great. I put some dielectric grease on it, buttoned it up, and it's worked fine ever since.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I had issues with cooler on back of mine at first, too. There's a place on the fans,under a shroud/cover where the wires come together for the 2 fans. It's right there at/on the fan housing. I took that cover off, cleaned up the slight oxidation on the terminals, and it started working great. I put some dielectric grease on it, buttoned it up, and it's worked fine ever since.
If anyone needs a new connection terminal, I have several more than I needed, just PM me. Mine was severely corroded and when I purchased a new terminal strip, they came in a package of 5.
 

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
I had issues with cooler on back of mine at first, too. There's a place on the fans,under a shroud/cover where the wires come together for the 2 fans. It's right there at/on the fan housing. I took that cover off, cleaned up the slight oxidation on the terminals, and it started working great. I put some dielectric grease on it, buttoned it up, and it's worked fine ever since.
Yeah that is where I connected the positive lead from the ignition switch. It is well grounded because when I supply power to that terminal the fans run great. The multi meter does not show any charge on the other terminal, which I assume should supply power to the two fans when the thermostat closes the contacts. I could try to move the power lead to the other terminal and see if the fans kick on when the hydraulic fluid starts getting warm. Then I would just need to track down why there is no power on the other terminal.

I will try to RTMS (Read The Manual Stupid) and verify it works the way I think it does. Honestly, I was just so pressed for time I did not want to mess with it more than necessary.
 
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rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
Well I moved my hot wire over to the center post instead of right post on the fan terminals, and when it got up to temperature the fans kicked on. The thermostat is fine. There is nothing wrong with the #1 fuse, so it must be a break in the hot wire going to that center post. If I get a little time this weekend I will try to track down where the break is.

Page 3-254 of TM 5-2420-224-20-1 is where you will find the diagnostic procedure if anyone is interested.
 

Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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43
Location
Lynchburg, VA
Are 395/85R20s a thing on SEEs? I need to get new tires at some point. I like the idea of the additional flotation of the bigger (edit: wider) tires. I don't really care about road speed, but I don't want something on there that's just gonna rub like crazy.

Another option I was looking at were Trelleborgs. Anybody have any thoughts on those? And then there are Pirellis? Heck, I dunno?!!
 
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Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
433
205
43
Location
Lynchburg, VA
An unmounted 395/85R20 next to the stock tire size, hence my (edited) call out of greater flotation (see below). I really, really don't want to mount/unmount/remount any rubbers that size if I don't have to...

2tires.png
 

MajorMogger

Member
47
50
18
Location
Texas
Gentlemen, I need some help. I am still dealing w/ the leaking front driver wheel seal that started out oily and now spews air when I turn on 4x4. Due to some family issues w/ an ailing mother I'm not able to take this apart and work on it right now. Is there a shop near San Antonio or Austin area that can (competently!) work on this for me? I wanted to take it to my go-to mercedes diesel mechanic but he says it won't fit in his shop. I'm in bad shape because I need it for a project that will involve large volume of rock dust and I can't have that seal like that.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
For now you could just interrupt the air supply to the axle.

I've thought of doing it to both axles anyway, because if I find myself in water that deep I have other problems going on.
 

MajorMogger

Member
47
50
18
Location
Texas
I like that idea but with the rock grinding and environment I'll be in I think I need that part working. Also it was leaking tons of oil even before the audible air leak became an added problem.
 
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