FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Migginsbros]

We call it Dieselpest (Black death). Bacteries live in the small zone of water (condense) and the biologig parts in the diesel. This Life means (edited) eat and -get off that stuff- ( don´t no that we don´t use s-h-i-t as a word without becomming 4 stars), thats it. You can´t get it off by cleaning and drying. You must use the chemicals, i think. We use it also to preventation.
The other Bottle is an aditive to make the diesel flow in winter.

 

[Migginsbros]

Due to speed limit we convert the speedo with a sticker.

 

[Migginsbros]

to whom it may concern

 

[The FLU farm]

Try Energy Suspension
They have the polyurethane boots and tons of other products.
I use their stuff on my CUCVs

Thanks, Tinstar. Last night I tried to remember where I've seen aftermarket boots. Now I know.
Most of the bushings on my Pete are from Energy Suspension, and I used their motor mounts and such on the M1009, so I should've remembered.

 

[General Hood]

Entire fuel supply from tank to motor most likely needs removed and cleaned or replaced. Ugh

The crud could be biological, boat owners on the ocean seem to have long term issues with biological fouling and once it moves in its a bear to knock out. There is product called BIOBOR, that can be added to diesel to kill the nasties (its very toxic stuff but you can buy it by the bottle at marine stores).

Drained the fuel tank,and as suspected there's a good 2 inches of black gritty sludge on the bottom, and caked around the filter screen. I'm not going to even attempt to filter the fuel for re-use (I now have 25 gallons of poison ivy killer). Time to break out the Tidy Bowl for fuel tanks

 

[Another Ahab]

to whom it may concern View attachment 651067

It 'd be handy to have an automatic link in this thread to this site:

https://www.google.com/#q=german+to+english+translator​

 

[peakbagger]

There is an older post on Benz World by Von on retrofitting I believe Energy Suspension boots for the tie rods. Its not clean and requires reusing part of the old seal. The parts manual shows a replacement boot that is held on with snap rings. They were offered at one point and Mercedes elected not to continue making them. While attempting to order a set of these via third parties, I ended up with a Mercedes part that looks very similar to what is in the parts manual unfortunately its much smaller. Perhaps the original replacement seal didn't hold up or was a crappy design so Mercedes did us a favor in discontinuing it.

Realistically I would like to see both ends with grease fittings so we can purge the boots with grease. I expect some shop can retrofit a different ball joint to the fixed end of the rod and expect we can go with a different adjustable tie rod end equipped with grease fittings. Off road shops do this all the time when they beef up suspensions. The expensive part of the actual forged arm that these components are attached to.

 

[The FLU farm]

Realistically I would like to see both ends with grease fittings so we can purge the boots with grease. I expect some shop can retrofit a different ball joint to the fixed end of the rod and expect we can go with a different adjustable tie rod end equipped with grease fittings. Off road shops do this all the time when they beef up suspensions. The expensive part of the actual forged arm that these components are attached to.

Good point, peakbagger. The taper in the steering components is likely a standard, so it would only be a matter of figuring out what other vehicle(s) use a similar size, or slightly larger, tie rod end that fits the taper.
Then rods for/from that vehicle can be cut down and grafted onto the FLU parts.
Worst case would be if the FLU's taper is a non-standard. Then they would need to be reamed out to something normal.

As far as holding a tie rod end boots on with snap rings go, I'm not concerned. They'd be hard pressed to fall off once installed.

 

[911joeblow]

I have been working my SEE and still fixing issues as I go. A couple of questions have come up if you guys could help?

First, in the wiring diagram it appears there is a reverse light switch but I have not read anything about it so far. Are the rear work lights supposed to come on with the backup horn?

Second, I was working with the SEE moving concrete posts which were too much for the bucket to lift and then to add insult to injury the power steering stopped working. Lots of fun maneuvering without it! I then drove back to the garage to check the fluid and belt and both were fine. I fired it back up and power steering was back? Any thoughts?

Third, How much should the loader be able to lift? It seems that a 2000lb load should be OK? I could not curl or lift the load hardly at all even with the engine revved way up. If it is indeed weak would changing out the military hydraulic fluid be a start? I have no leaks (so far) and everything seems to be working correctly.

I put LED headlights in the work lights up top...WOW is all I can say!

 

[Another Ahab]

Second, I was working with the SEE moving concrete posts which were too much for the bucket to lift and then to add insult to injury the power steering stopped working. Lots of fun maneuvering without it! I then drove back to the garage to check the fluid and belt and both were fine. I fired it back up and power steering was back? Any thoughts?

Might be time for an Exorcist.

 

[The FLU farm]

I have been working my SEE and still fixing issues as I go. A couple of questions have come up if you guys could help?

First, in the wiring diagram it appears there is a reverse light switch but I have not read anything about it so far. Are the rear work lights supposed to come on with the backup horn?

Second, I was working with the SEE moving concrete posts which were too much for the bucket to lift and then to add insult to injury the power steering stopped working. Lots of fun maneuvering without it! I then drove back to the garage to check the fluid and belt and both were fine. I fired it back up and power steering was back? Any thoughts?

Third, How much should the loader be able to lift? It seems that a 2000lb load should be OK? I could not curl or lift the load hardly at all even with the engine revved way up. If it is indeed weak would changing out the military hydraulic fluid be a start? I have no leaks (so far) and everything seems to be working correctly.

I put LED headlights in the work lights up top...WOW is all I can say!

As far as I know, the rear work (backup) lights only come on with the switch by the tool hose reel. But hooking them up, through a relay, to the backup alarm wiring would be a good idea. Might as well use that useless feature for something useful.

While I don't remember the actual rating for the loader, I'm fairly certain it's more than one ton. Sounds like your loader is even less enthusiastic than mine, which will lift but not necessarily curl. And definitely not lift or hold the front end up.

So let's see some photos of those lights you installed.

 

[Go Go Gadget FLU 419]

Glad to SEE another Okie getting one of these beasts in their possession!

GH, that is disturbingly disgusting. Thought mine was bad! G'luck wither.

FLU Farm; I WAS looking for actual headlights, maybe still am, but you drive a hard bargain about not caring because they don't do much anyways. Meh. I'll put it on the "maybe one day" list.

911joeblow; IIRC the front hydraulic pump is belt driven. If so, I'd expect that your issue is a loose belt, or maybe something on the belt locked up for a bit, not letting you get power steering, or much in the way of bucket power.

 

[Mark1954]

Funny you should mention that, Mark. Last night I was wondering how many SEEs are equipped with a fire extinguisher.
I keep Halon (or replacements) in my vehicles, but for whatever reason never did install any in the FLUs. And considering the cramped areas, complex wiring aided in its demise by rodent intrusion, plus all the normal reasons a vehicle can catch on fire, it should probably be on the list. High on the list.

Mine included a 5 lb fire extinguisher, but it is loose in the tool box, not the cab where at least 1 belongs, with maybe a larger one outside for bigger issues like fuel or brush, or hopefully anything except my SEE!

 

[911joeblow]

I was thinking the same thing, adding a relay to kick the rear work lights on when the rear backup horn gets power but then started to second guess that the FLU was supposed to do that anyway. Sounds like that is NOT the case so relay here I come.

As far as the PWR steering goes, I cant figure it out. The HYD pump and the PWR steering pumps are separate units and both have fluid and good belt tension. So not sure what is going on. I am leaning toward changing to a lighter HYD fluid.

Do you guys know which air tank and associated regulator is for the brakes? I get WAY too much pressure when I drive but not enough when it idles. I want to keep the main regulator putting out high pressure but drop the brake regulator down. I am at 130PSI when i drive on the gauge.
Also any tips on the air hose connector/inflator setup? I want to buy one but cant figure out what to buy.

 

[The FLU farm]

There is an older post on Benz World by Von on retrofitting I believe Energy Suspension boots for the tie rods. Its not clean and requires reusing part of the old seal.

I found it, thanks to you peakbagger.
The Energy Suspension part number that Von used is 913119G. He did reuse the ring from the old seal, but I'm still not sure it's needed. Maybe once I dissect an old tie rod end, it'll make sense. Of course, I keep thinking ends with Zerk fittings, not the "sealed for life" kind we have.
For now, does anybody out there have a tie rod end which is already off the vehicle? It'd be helpful to have a few measurements.

 

[The FLU farm]

Also any tips on the air hose connector/inflator setup? I want to buy one but cant figure out what to buy.

I think you'd be disappointed with the factory inflator. Of course, starting with 130 psi would help, but still.
Either way, my main concern would be the oil in the air. At least mine spits out a fair amount at the unloader. Not that I've seen any in the tanks, but it's definitely not something I'd want in a tire.

 

[Mark1954]

Please let me know if you find suitable booties. It seems that installing new tie rods is standard procedure, but not replacing the ends and boots.
Since the stock tie rod ends can't be lubed, those boots are fairly important.

It may not happen for awhile, there is snow in the ground today and my SEE is going to be going into its winter "nap" pretty quick. Ideally if someone could get the boot dimensions of the tie rod it would go quick. I would need to pop mine off and expect that will not happen until spring.

SNOW??? It's 82 f. here today. Take I-95 south until the hotels don't have plugs for block heaters. That's far enough south! (Lived in North Dakota and Wyoming)

 

[peakbagger]

I found it, thanks to you peakbagger.
The Energy Suspension part number that Von used is 913119G. He did reuse the ring from the old seal, but I'm still not sure it's needed. Maybe once I dissect an old tie rod end, it'll make sense. Of course, I keep thinking ends with Zerk fittings, not the "sealed for life" kind we have.
For now, does anybody out there have a tie rod end which is already off the vehicle? It'd be helpful to have a few measurements.

I agree, if anyone actually gets a parts SEE that they don't resurrect, getting dimensions on these components is the first step. I think this link may be a start http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_outer_tie_rod_ends.asp and I expect there is similar chart for the ball joints on the fixed end.

 

[The FLU farm]

I agree, if anyone actually gets a parts SEE that they don't resurrect, getting dimensions on these components is the first step.

General Hood, you're the only one I know of with a complete non-runner. Would you please remove a tie rod end from your dead SEE and take the appropriate measurements?
Yes, I know you're busy, but it would be a big help for the rest of us, who have functional SEEs. Besides, the tie rod ends are easily accessible, so it would be a more pleasant job than fiddling with fuel lines etc. in a cramped area.

 

[911joeblow]

I think you'd be disappointed with the factory inflator. Of course, starting with 130 psi would help, but still.
Either way, my main concern would be the oil in the air. At least mine spits out a fair amount at the unloader. Not that I've seen any in the tanks, but it's definitely not something I'd want in a tire.

I get no oil in my pipes at all and where I am it is very dry so no water either. Is there a source for the inflator fittings, are the standard stuff or propitiatory? I am putting on a air hose reel and need to connect it somehow.