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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
I had a 6 point knocking on my door the other day. Also had a moose drinking from my dogs outdoor water bowl ;) a few days ago. I live at the base of the Uintas at 7500ft in North Eastern Utah.
I'm a little rusty on my ruminant mammals:

- Is that a Mule Deer on the other side of that wire, or a Whitetail?

- I'm thinking 7500 feet in elevation is likely a Muley, right?

deer.jpg
 

Mark1954

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Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
H4 housings are the Euro version of the headlight housings. USA spec are sealed bulb/housing where H4s are replaceable bulb versions. So with the H4 housings and the LED H4 format bulbs I have what you see.
Thanks for that. I will assume that H4's are commonly available. Were 24v LEDs hard to source?
Last but not least, after removing the protection grid from the light, how does the light housing come apart?
Mine was repainted not too long ago, and I would like to do as little damage as possible while 'fixing' things.
 

Mark1954

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General Update SEE workaround crane

General update. I said earlier that I would post some pictures of our McGyvered crane ala excavator, to let you guys decide if you could do something similar with the SEE backhoe for those times you might need a lifting device, but not another machine. It worked for us, you have to decide for yourself if it could work for you. This was a more time than money fix. The winch and guide is on the back side of the mounting plate.
 

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The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
General update. I said earlier that I would post some pictures of our McGyvered crane ala excavator, to let you guys decide if you could do something similar with the SEE backhoe for those times you might need a lifting device, but not another machine. It worked for us, you have to decide for yourself if it could work for you. This was a more time than money fix. The winch and guide is on the back side of the mounting plate.
Ah, that looks like the kind of pivoting winch mount I had in mind. Maybe a project for next year, but I'll likely mount the winch on the vehicle itself, then use a snatch block on the bucket - or crane, if it ends up on the HMMH.
 

Mark1954

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Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
Good and bad today. Determined my SEE was RRAPed in 2009 - yea!!
Also figured out that PTO indicator light and 4WD w/o diff lock indicator light are reversed. PTO comes on when in 4WD, and visa versa.
I am thinking changing the wires at the fuse box might be the easiest fix.
Ideas from the room?
On a positive note, could not figure out why jackhammer would not fully seat in storage position
would go most of the way, but not the last 1/2". Pulled it and the drill out and.....wadya know....
 

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The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Good and bad today. Determined my SEE was RRAPed in 2009 - yea!!
Also figured out that PTO indicator light and 4WD w/o diff lock indicator light are reversed. PTO comes on when in 4WD, and visa versa.
I am thinking changing the wires at the fuse box might be the easiest fix.
Ideas from the room?
On a positive note, could not figure out why jackhammer would not fully seat in storage position
would go most of the way, but not the last 1/2". Pulled it and the drill out and.....wadya know....
So that's where the ripper is supposed to live? Mine were both laying loose in the rear box.

Switched indicator lights between the PTO and 4WD must be common. Mine's like that, too, but since it's very rare that I run the light switch with anything turned on, it doesn't bother me. Easier to swap the lenses than wiring, I figured, should I reach a point where I care.
 

Mark1954

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Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
Alright. Todays lesson...

If you've primed your beast for like 2 dam hours and she still won't run steady, check the fuel tank. Sometimes you'll have to add more in it, it can actually run dry. Even when it looks 25%+ full.

Also, the ether cylinder in my SEE is from these folks. Supposed to be top notch stuff, has a lubricant in it so as to prevent damage. Let me know if we are planning a bulk buy, I'd take a couple.

http://www.koldban.com/KBi_Ether_Cylinders_s/3.htm
Is there any way to determine if it is full or empty before I dismount mine? (other than 'it won't start in cold weather')
and is there a check valve or something to keep it from venting if I remove it to check it?
 

Mark1954

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Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
So that's where the ripper is supposed to live? Mine were both laying loose in the rear box.

Switched indicator lights between the PTO and 4WD must be common. Mine's like that, too, but since it's very rare that I run the light switch with anything turned on, it doesn't bother me. Easier to swap the lenses than wiring, I figured, should I reach a point where I care.
Ooooooh! Good idea, that would be simpler. We may have several operators, and would solve explaining it every time. (DW may be one of the operators, better to fix than explain why it ain't right to begin with)

BTW, having 2 rippers is just gloating, when so many starving SEE owners going without, if Hillary was in charge, you would have to turn it in so that the deserving could have one - for free, of course.
 
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911joeblow

Active member
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Location
Utah
Thanks for that. I will assume that H4's are commonly available. Were 24v LEDs hard to source?
Last but not least, after removing the protection grid from the light, how does the light housing come apart?
Mine was repainted not too long ago, and I would like to do as little damage as possible while 'fixing' things.
The lights are metal buckets with rubber inserts that hold the lamp. Simply peal the rubber off away from the bucket. However an alternative is to leave the rubber in the can and pry out just the bulb. I think the latter is faster but might be risky if you are not patient. In my case it took 15 mins or so.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
BTW, having 2 rippers is just gloating, when so many starving SEE owners going without, if Hillary was in charge, you would have to turn it in so that the deserving could have one - for free, of course.
If things get that bad, I'm expecting to have to surrender not just the second ripper, but the SEE it came in, too. And dozens of other possessions.
Lucked out big time on the first one as it came with pretty much everything, the second one had only a lonely ripper. Neither HMMH had anything.
You win some, and you lose some. Statistically you shouldn't be able to lose them all, but I frequently find myself very close to proving that statistic wrong.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
Is there any way to determine if it is full or empty before I dismount mine? (other than 'it won't start in cold weather')
and is there a check valve or something to keep it from venting if I remove it to check it?
I've wondered about that, too, not wanting to potentially waste half a can. As I recall, it's supposed to seal up when removed, but...
In the SEE there's usually a pleasant whiff of ether every time it's started, so it may have the rare fully automatic option.
Then again, it often smells of ether around it at any given time, which is why it's getting a new can soon.
Try bonking it and listen for the full vs. empty sounds.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
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113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The lights are metal buckets with rubber inserts that hold the lamp. Simply peal the rubber off away from the bucket. However an alternative is to leave the rubber in the can and pry out just the bulb. I think the latter is faster but might be risky if you are not patient. In my case it took 15 mins or so.
Those are called PAR 33 lights, if memory serves me, and I really like the idea of turning the worklights into headlights. They may be a bit over legal height, but unlike the regular headlights they could actually be useful since the light wouldn't have to try penetrating loader arms, hoses, and the bucket.
 

911joeblow

Active member
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Location
Utah
Those are called PAR 33 lights, if memory serves me, and I really like the idea of turning the worklights into headlights. They may be a bit over legal height, but unlike the regular headlights they could actually be useful since the light wouldn't have to try penetrating loader arms, hoses, and the bucket.
They are headlights and in the case of a "farm" vehicle and are legal. They have hi/low too so good to go when you need flash to pass on the highway ;)
 
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911joeblow

Active member
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Location
Utah
So guys in the know. How long and complicated is it to tilt the cab? I dont have the brackets either but lots of tools ;). Is it worth doing just for going over everything? I do need to change the master switch or rewire it so that is one reason to do it.
 

General Hood

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Location
Fort Towson, OK
If things get that bad, I'm expecting to have to surrender not just the second ripper, but the SEE it came in, too. And dozens of other possessions.
Lucked out big time on the first one as it came with pretty much everything, the second one had only a lonely ripper. Neither HMMH had anything.
You win some, and you lose some. Statistically you shouldn't be able to lose them all, but I frequently find myself very close to proving that statistic wrong.
There are more SEES & HMMHs coming up for auction, in case you want to increase your odds
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
I've wondered about that, too, not wanting to potentially waste half a can. As I recall, it's supposed to seal up when removed, but...
In the SEE there's usually a pleasant whiff of ether every time it's started, so it may have the rare fully automatic option.
Then again, it often smells of ether around it at any given time, which is why it's getting a new can soon.
Try bonking it and listen for the full vs. empty sounds.
Bonking? Is that something like thumping a watermelon to see if it's ripe?
 
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