FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

I'm guessing that Brian means the one by the levers for unlocking/locking and lowering/raising the backhoe, below the hose reel.
Is there any other switch in that system?

 

[Andyrv6av8r]

I'm guessing that Brian means the one by the levers for unlocking/locking and lowering/raising the backhoe, below the hose reel.
Is there any other switch in that system?

I was wondering if he was talking about the one by the out rigger; it idles the engine up for sure.

 

[The FLU farm]

Indeed it does. I got a chance to peek into the pile-o'-valves behind the cab yesterday, but need to take the time to follow the hoses and tubing to figure out which one does what.
I'm curious myself, and it might help Brian.

 

[Hummerdave]

I know my switch didn't work the first time until I shot a bunch of contact cleaner/oil in and popped it in & out a few times... then it went to high idle and the cooling fans came on since I didn't have a tool hooked up.. oil got hot pretty quick...
Dave

 

[AZBrian]

Question on FLU419 backhoe - what civilian model case backhoe matches the parts on the M35C found on the SEE? I have been searching but can't find an equivalent model and if I go to case and enter M35C I get nothing. My dipper cylinder started drizzling a lot of fluid after about 15 hours of work. I need to order a rebuild kit. I don't seem to have luck getting ahold of certain FLU419 parts suppliers so I am looking to buy parts from a ase supplier, if I can match up the model number. Thx!

Another question- does everyone's cooling fans come on when running the hoe? Mine don't and the cylinders and lines get hot. Wondering if that cause me to blow a seal or if it was just old. Thx.

 

[AZBrian]

On the other issue for hydraulic tools - yes, the switch is the one that idles the engine up. I still haven't figured that out but have been so busy digging holes and ditches that I haven't gotten back to figure that out yet. Will need to eventually. I have a bunch of down trees that need to be cut up. -Brian

 

[The FLU farm]

Brian, from what I found, it's a Case 580C.
The local shop that has rebuilt a few of my SEE and HMMH cylinders concluded that it's dirt buildup and lack of use that caused the leaks, except for one where a poor masking job had left a chunk of OD paint on the rod.
Since then I've cleaned off the appropriate areas and put some oil on the seals. No new leaks since.

And, yes, your fans should come on after a while, especially if you run higher rpms.
I'm down to one functional fan, and will try finding the problem this week as it's gotten hot here.

 

[The FLU farm]

On the other issue for hydraulic tools - yes, the switch is the one that idles the engine up. I still haven't figured that out but have been so busy digging holes and ditches that I haven't gotten back to figure that out yet. Will need to eventually. I have a bunch of down trees that need to be cut up. -Brian

There's two of them that raises the idle, Brian. The one back by the backhoe, and the one next to the work light switch.
The latter should activate your hoses.

 

[AZBrian]

Thanks for both replies! 580C is great info. I will try to do the rebuild of the cylinder myself if I can find an appropriate spanner wrench. I suspect that it may be "fun" to get the thing off, the dipper being the biggest one. At least it appears to be the most accessible.

On the hydraulic tools, the switch next to the work light does run the RPMs up but doesn't seem to turn the hoses on. Maybe I have a bad solenoid. I need to look at the circuit.

Thx again! I am really getting a lot of work done with the SEE. It was intimidating at first but it is getting easier and easier to use now. I love the hoe - works great aside for the new oil leak.

 

[peakbagger]

If you want to check the cooling fan there is a terminal strip at the base of the fan box (you need to have the backhoe deployed to get at it). You can move one of the connectors over to a different post to jump out the electric snap switch that turns the fans on and off. The fans have a known problem with water leaking into them and rusting them out, so someone may have disconnected the fans at the same terminal strip. On mine one of the fans was seized and that caused the fuse to blow when the oil warmed up. I don't care about authenticity so I bought a 24 volt truck cooling fans and swapped both of them by making an adaptor plate.


My cylinders leak but the more I use it the less they leak. I did buy a box of oil pads that absorb oil not water and expect I may be rigging up some diapers on the worse cylinder.

One thing about the SEE is the electrical circuits iare not that hard to diagnose if you follow the troubleshooting sections in the maintenance manual. The biggest hassle is finding the connectors on the chassis.

 

[The FLU farm]

. I will try to do the rebuild of the cylinder myself if I can find an appropriate spanner wrench. I suspect that it may be "fun" to get the thing off, the dipper being the biggest one. At least it appears to be the most accessible.

The fun part was getting that lump of a cylinder back in position. At the time I didn't have the HMMH, or the other SEE, to use for lifting it. But luckily, my home built "Sky hook" and the tractor helped make the job fairly easy.
I wouldn't even try to do it alone without some sort of lifting device.

 

[peakbagger]

Interesting, I have considered making a jib crane that attaches to the ROPS to get the spare tire onto the ground.

 

[The FLU farm]

Getting it to the ground is the easy part.
I removed my spare for (much) better visibility, and lucked out when getting a flat - it was only about 75 feet from where the spare was stored.
But I'd think that it would be possible to use the backhoe to lift the spare back into position, using some simple attachment for the boom.

 

[peakbagger]

I had two tires go flat over the winter with bad valve stems, the rubber seals had rotted away. They were both off the beads and I had to reseat them with starting fluid. They are definitely a challenge to put them back on the truck solo. I also invested in 4 foot breaker bar in place of a real long cheater pipe.

 

[Another Ahab]

I had two tires go flat over the winter with bad valve stems, the rubber seals had rotted away. They were both off the beads and I had to reseat them with starting fluid. They are definitely a challenge to put them back on the truck solo. I also invested in 4 foot breaker bar in place of a real long cheater pipe.

Peakbagger, have you maybe got a shot of the breaker bar, and where you got it?
You know, it's one of those items that might be worth throwing into the "glove box".

 

[The FLU farm]

I had two tires go flat over the winter with bad valve stems, the rubber seals had rotted away. They were both off the beads and I had to reseat them with starting fluid. They are definitely a challenge to put them back on the truck solo. I also invested in 4 foot breaker bar in place of a real long cheater pipe.

Ouch. I've had a number of rubber valve stems go bad over the past year, but none of the "real ones"...yet.
I guess you needed the breaker bar for the lug nuts. I was so glad I'd bought the hydraulic impact, and could put it to good use when changing out the flat tire.
The only thing which could've been better would've been to have a rear tire go bad instead of the front one. Then I wouldn't even have needed a jack.

 

[felixcatski]

Brian, on the hydraulic issues....if you have a good hydraulic supply store many of them have the rebuild gaskets for a fraction of the cost of oem. Bowling Green Rubber& Gasket in my area of KY has got them for me several times. sorry this is out of order here again

 

[peakbagger]

Peakbagger, have you maybe got a shot of the breaker bar, and where you got it?
You know, it's one of those items that might be worth throwing into the "glove box".

I don't have shot of the bar but here is link https://www.amazon.com/Grip-40-Mechanics-Breaker-Bar/dp/B000J3RYV6, typical Chinese tool, looks nice initially but the chrome plating is very thin, I already have rust spots.

Kind of big for glove box. I actually bought the bar after I had swapped over the tires. I used a standard 2' breaker bar that came with my Harbor Freight 3/4" drive Jumbo Socket set and a cheater pipe.

 

[AZBrian]

Great picture of putting the dipper cylinder back in place. You have me rethinking doing it myself. I am at my summer home in Oregon now and I don't have a good setup for working with heavy items. I have tools and a will but now am thinking that putting it back on may be too much with just myself. Maybe I can park the mog under a tree and rig a lift that way. I am going to have to look around a bit .

I will look at the fans and terminals. I could have sworn that they ran when I tested it before buying but they just haven't come on an I have done a lot of work. It has only been about 70 degrees here though but they cylinders and line sure do her hot. Would not want touch without gloves on after about 30 minutes of work.

I am laughing thinking about rigging diapers under the cylinder to catch oil leaking out. For me that probably wouldn't work. Mine didn't leak at all for about 15 hrs of work then started leaking about a quart every few minutes. Too much coming out I think. But great idea - love it.

 

[The FLU farm]

Great picture of putting the dipper cylinder back in place. You have me rethinking doing it myself. I am at my summer home in Oregon now and I don't have a good setup for working with heavy items. I have tools and a will but now am thinking that putting it back on may be too much with just myself. Maybe I can park the mog under a tree and rig a lift that way. I am going to have to look around a bit .


I am laughing thinking about rigging diapers under the cylinder to catch oil leaking out. For me that probably wouldn't work. Mine didn't leak at all for about 15 hrs of work then started leaking about a quart every few minutes. Too much coming out I think. But great idea - love it.

In reality, that pic was probably from when I removed it. Not that it matters, but it was obviously trickier to reinstall than to remove.
I'd strongly suggest using adjustable height rigging for the reinstall so that you can raise and lower each end independently. Even if it's off the same tree branch. And pick a sturdy branch - those cylinders are heavy.

Wish I'd thought of using a "diaper" when my cylinder seal gave out. I was downwind of it and almost done with an irrigation ditch.
Let's just say that I ended up being fairly rust proof afterwards. A drip would've been so much better than a spray.