FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Another Ahab]

I had not realized, until today, the SEEs have an optional auger attachment which replaces the backhoe bucket, pictured in this photo, hydraulically operated. The 5 ft auger bit was in the bucket of another SEE.
View attachment 644874

Five foot is awful wide; it would take a LOT of torque to turn in any soil.

Is that 5 foot the length of the bit, or the diameter?

 

[The FLU farm]

...the really-annoying buzzer which sounds until the air's up to pressure...

Which is connected to the only two wires a rat will not eat.

 

[The FLU farm]

Since I couldn't accompany Mr. Hood on his rat feeding journey to Texarkana, I ended up buying a 3-point blade instead.
The good news: the offset is hydraulic, and it only cost $50. The bad news is that someone had apparently tried to move bridge abutments with it, so it's more of a V-plow at this point.
Running it over with the SEE will be the first attempted method in the straightening process.


Then FedEx showed up with the quick disconnect adapter, so now the real fun can begin.
And, yes, I use the "sky hook" a lot, which is why a stouter version is in the works. It'll come in handy for the SEE.

 

[Another Ahab]

Which is connected to the only two wires a rat will not eat.

 

[The FLU farm]

Funny how those attachments/tools seem to just move around or disappear entirely, all on their own in Texarkana... Must be the Rats playing more tricks on us.

I was wondering about those disappearing acts, too, until I learned that Mr. Hood only lives an hour away...and seems to get along quite well with the guys there.
Well, just like he does with us, come to think of it.

 

[Skidpad]

FLU Farm, is that the universal quick attach from Titan/Palletforks? I was just measuring my loader width today to be able to weld on some flanges to the very same (or looks like the same) adapter plate. The next adventure will be plumbing an additional hose from the rear pump so I can turn the skid steer attachments on and off with the PTO lever. The only downside is not having a forward/reverse valve for it...yet. Photos to come of that and possibly a thumb on the dipper arm...

General Hood, the auger is a 1650 that is still made by Lowe industries in WI. I actually had a call with them yesterday and they still can assemble the entire auger kit but they said that a lot of what was in the kit for the military was unnecessary. In regards to that auger there, is it going to become part of an auction? Interested since I was already looking at a new unit instead...

So, I had a successful evening and only slightly feel like I can relate to the woes of some of you here in regards to electrical. Suffice to say that removing that fuse bracket while the loader is still in place makes for a gymnastic evening. Nonetheless, I finished the evening's thrashing with a complete set of working rear indicators, flashers, turns, and brakes! Only one front turn indicator and the horn and I'll be ready to go and try it at the DMV (minus the loader and how of course).

One question from the week's work. Is this fitting supposed to be discharging air the entire time the vehicle is running and afterwards, or is this surface rust indication that I've got an air leak? I think it's door #2 but I'd like the insight of the group. In everyone's opinion, can this just be tightened? My finger is behind where the air can be felt and the other picture shows where it is blowing out...

Thanks!

 

[Skidpad]

Awesome, I can't wait to see this completed!

 

[Go Go Gadget FLU 419]

Which is connected to the only two wires a rat will not eat.

HA! They didn't put the OEM secret sauce on those, did they?

Well Skid, I'm betting that's a leak. In your picture, mine leaks right where your thumb knuckle is pointing, at the base of the vertical crap-gob. Hose clamp and a tire patch hold more and more air every day, presumably from more rust that is blown out.

GREAT to know that they sell these things with extra oil in them. That's got me a lot less worried. Still, I'm sucking air into the fuel somewhere, at the very least. And need another hub seal or two.

Anyone notice how much funner it is to drive the creature with the engine cover on? It allows me to hear the low air pressure alarm that lets me know have yet more crap to work on.

I mounted an air hose reel on top of the hydraulic hose reel. Where is the best place to rig it up to? Should I worry about installing an oiler/dryer thing like Amazon recommends based on my browsing history?

 

[peakbagger]

I am pretty sure its an air leak. While replacing the air line that runs from the air pressure regulator to that fitting, the tee failed. There is no good way to get a backup wrench on the tee so breaking loose the airline really torques the tee. There is a male thread on the tee that cracked on mine. Its an odd tee, (male thread on one run, tube fitting on the other run and branch) and I had to buy several new fittings to get it replumbed.

By the way, there is TSB on the cross body air line. The steel line rusts out from the inside as there is low point on it. The military fix is to replace it with SS. I used the cupronickel brake line material. I expect that's where a lot of the rust comes from. I took out the air tanks and blew them all out along with all the fittings I could find.

 

[Skidpad]

Gadget, peakbagger, thanks for the insight guys! I thought that it was definitely a leak. The rust was a dead giveaway... So, now I guess I get to learn what I've always managed to avoid, pipe flaring & bending!

Gadget, in regards to the auger, I am attaching the TM to this post. I'll also go into the TM section on the main forum page and upload it there too. I think a lot of the OEM secret sauce is mil specific things like CARC paint, etc... after all if you are giving this thing over to a bunch of Lance Corporals (or Lance criminals as we lovingly refer to them) you have to really break it down Barney-style so it's easy to understand.

SF!

 

[The FLU farm]

Skidpad, yes, it's a Titan adapter. It was the best suited I could find, and I buy quite a bit of stuff from there as it is. And I also vote for "a leak" - one I don't have, yet.

Gadget, you really need to cut (or unplug) the wires to that buzzer. If I have to listen to noise, I prefer that it's useful. The engine is, the buzzer, not so much.
An oiler for the air reel shouldn't be necessary. At least not on my FLUs...they spit out quite a bit of oil with the air as it is. A filter and dryer would probably be a good idea. Something I should put in line with the QD couplings I still haven't copied...er, installed.

 

[Go Go Gadget FLU 419]

Thanks Skid! I ain't never seen that one. The several other TM's pertaining to the SEE are all too familiar, so it feels good to read something new.

Yea, them wires are being used more and more, as I trace leaks that are apparent when I try to take it out of 2WD. It'll empty a tank @100 PSI in less than 15 seconds I think.

 

[The FLU farm]

It'll empty a tank @100 PSI in less than 15 seconds I think.

You call that an "air leak"? Sounds more like an "air hole".

 

[General Hood]

Five foot is awful wide; it would take a LOT of torque to turn in any soil.

Is that 5 foot the length of the bit, or the diameter?

5 ft length

 

[Skidpad]

FLU Farm, I'm interested to hear about your design for this. The weldable area on the back of the adapter looks like 49.5" and the width from outside to outside of my loader attachment points is 50.25"... Missed it by that much! So, My thought is to weld on a piece of plate to extend the attachment area on each side. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with too.

 

[BigBison]

More pics of the HMMH...

 

[Skidpad]

...what have I been infected with? I just won an auction for an M1082 trailer...

BigBison, that thing is awesome. I have to stop looking for fear of what i might bid on one that comes up next week...

 

[Bikers33]

I mounted an air hose reel on top of the hydraulic hose reel. Where is the best place to rig it up to? Should I worry about installing an oiler/dryer thing like Amazon recommends based on my browsing history?

Hook it up to the bigger tank.....put in a water separator and don't forget to install a one way check valve in line.

 

[Bikers33]

Don't bother with oiler if you are filling tires, just a few drops of oil into the air tool inlet before you connect the airline...oilers make too much of a mess.

 

[Bikers33]

Rare bird, Spendy when they come up on the block.