FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[rtrask]

My ether system was leaking when I got my see so I just removed it. It starts great down to about 10 F (coldest I've tried). Point being that I'm not sure how necessary it is and secondly, if one really wanted to give her a little shot, the intake is an easy reach from the drivers seat with a spray can of ether conveniently kept in the cab during the cold months.

To date it has started every time I tried (at least since I took the starter apart, cleaned and re-lubed it). What prompted me to ask is when it's warm it starts on the first turn, but last time I tried it was probably around freezing ~ 30° F and it probably fired after 3 revolutions. Not terrible but I was assuming would not start if the temperature was much lower than that.

The cheapest solution is to try it, and then ask myself if I really need to start it if it's that cold. If the answer is yes it is not that big of a deal to do it manually.

After reading the posts, I think I would figure out a way to prevent it from injecting ether through out most of the year. The way that people are describing it I think there must be something wrong with the temperature sensor. I would rather have it only inject when I pull the nob, and I am pretty sure that can be managed fairly easily.

 

[The FLU farm]

Guess I could pull the canister off, which would stop the year-round injection, or fix whatever causes it. But why? As mentioned, I like the smell.
As long as mine starts down to -20, I'm happy. That's about as cold as it gets here.

Of course, if I somehow forgot the anti-gel it really wouldn't matter if they start or not. So far I haven't.

 

[rtrask]

Guess I could pull the canister off, which would stop the year-round injection, or fix whatever causes it. But why? As mentioned, I like the smell.
As long as mine starts down to -20, I'm happy. That's about as cold as it gets here.

Of course, if I somehow forgot the anti-gel it really wouldn't matter if they start or not. So far I haven't.

When you replaced your canister, where did you buy it, and how much (approximately) did you pay?

 

[The FLU farm]

Bought it at the local NAPA, but it was years ago so I don't remember the price. It wasn't expensive.
Actually, I thought that they wouldn't last very long, and bought several. And the one I did change (on the Winter SEE) turned out not to be empty.

 

[peakbagger]

Remember, if you are running the SEE below freezing you need to fill the alcohol bottle (assuming its not smashed) and turn the valve on at the alcohol injector. Other wise you are risking a freezeup in the air system.

 

[rtrask]

Remember, if you are running the SEE below freezing you need to fill the alcohol bottle (assuming its not smashed) and turn the valve on at the alcohol injector. Other wise you are risking a freezeup in the air system.

Thanks peakbagger, I got the alcohol injector sorted out last year. That is a good reminder though for cold weather.

 

[911joeblow]

I would add some anti-gel as well to the fuel

 

[The FLU farm]

Great, now I know why I haven't seen any email notices lately. This site has also been "improved".
Oh well, it was nice while it lasted.

 

[Pinsandpitons]

My thoughts exactly. Perhaps I can squeeze a little bit more wisdom out of it though; does anyone know what that plastic “module“ right near the heater in the drivers foot well does? I can’t figure out what it is from the schematics or the TMs. It just plugs into the wiring harness, has five or seven contacts in it, and a little circuitboard inside. I know it has a circuitboard because I broke it and when I unplugged it nothing bad seemed to happen.

 

[The FLU farm]

Funny, Pinsandpitons, I (re)noticed that gizmo the other day and also wondered. Only long enough to think "Oh well". though.

 

[professorpg]

anyone know where to get a complete set of hydraulic hoses for an SEE. Between the Iraq sun and the Florida sun, the hoses on both the front loader and backhoe are badly cracked and a couple are leaking. (one blew all over the windshield and cab.
professorpg
Donald P. smith
pg@profpg.com

 

[professorpg]

Sti

anyone know where to get a complete set of hydraulic hoses for an SEE. Between the Iraq sun and the Florida sun, the hoses on both the front loader and backhoe are badly cracked and a couple are leaking. (one blew all over the windshield and cab.
professorpg
Donald P. smith
pg@profpg.com

Still looking for the hyd hoses for both the Front loader and the Rear backhoe for my Unimog SEE.
PS moved to FL panhandle.

 

[The FLU farm]

Make them, or have them made. I doubt there's anywhere a complete set is laying around and for sale.

 

[peakbagger]

Have them made up by a good hydraulic supply house. Its highly likely that any NOS hoses have been sitting on shelves for 30 years in unknown conditions. There are better hoses made today than 30 years ago. Sure, separate hoses that might fit pop up on Ebay on occasion but many of the folks posting them appear to come up with pricing that the government was willing to pay for.

 

[patrol578]

Sti

Still looking for the hyd hoses for both the Front loader and the Rear backhoe for my Unimog SEE.
PS moved to FL panhandle.

I just go to my nearest tractor dealer (Kubota, in my case). I bring the old hose and tell them I need the exact same thing (same length, same fittings). They always come through with an exact fit at a reasonable price. They can usually make the FL4 lines same-day, but often need to order fittings for the backhoe lines.

I agree with the above replies...get them made with modern materials and technology. It may even be less expensive than hunting for NOS items. I usually prefer NOS, but in the case of rubber which will decay over time -- even if unused -- I go for new.

Hope that helps.

 

[Speedwoble]

Sti

Still looking for the hyd hoses for both the Front loader and the Rear backhoe for my Unimog SEE.
PS moved to FL panhandle.

The case dealer will have the hoses for the backhoe, part numbers are in the TM’s. They will not be old, but they will be expensive. The backhoe hoses.have steel sleeves mid hose for fastening that I have not seen all hydraulic shops have. If you don’t add them, you will need to develop a different retention. Also, my loader had “anti-chaffing” sleeves on them which reduces UV degradation.

 

[love a cummins]

can anyone tell me if $9500 for a running useable machine is a good price? it is dirty and has small-ish issues but is functional. I have talked to an ex mechanic for the army, he has a lot of experience working on the SEE and his advise is that unless I enjoy working on it constantly that I should not get it. I have a lot of small work. not dig

 

[love a cummins]

digging a basement but I want something that I can depend on around the farm for many years. thanks for any advise.

 

[Speedwoble]

can anyone tell me if $9500 for a running useable machine is a good price? it is dirty and has small-ish issues but is functional. I have talked to an ex mechanic for the army, he has a lot of experience working on the SEE and his advise is that unless I enjoy working on it constantly that I should not get it. I have a lot of small work. not dig

I'm torn. I didn't pay that much and I wouldn't, but I wouldn't sell mine for less than $15K. The last few I have seen sell on the surplus auctions have gone for well over $15k, but there are fools out there. Mine has not needed constant work, but it does need little things, and there is a certain amount of deferred repairs I am putting off. It is not pleasant to get into and out of if you are doing a lot of work around a farm. It doesn't make a great loader because of the suspension. I recently tried to lift and move a flail mower off a trailer with it and the self levelling bucket turned that into a fiasco. I think you would be better off with a real tractor for $9500 if you won't be leaving the farm. The advantage of the FLU is the 50mph+ road speed and it has many compromises in other areas to achieve that.

 

[The FLU farm]

The advantage of the FLU is the 50mph+ road speed and it has many compromises in other areas to achieve that.

Meanwhile, mine stays in Low range and I couldn't care less if its top speed was 5 mph.

To me, the SEE is so much more fun than a regular tractor or backhoe. Now, if I used it commercially it would be a different story.
But I'm not, so the learning expperience and fun factor easily outweighs the SEE's quirks.