FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[glcaines]

Congratulatons on your purchase. You've come to the right place if you need help. Once you get it, take plenty of photos.

 

[The FLU farm]

Welcome, ODB.

I think you're doing the right thing reading through this thread. There's lots of good info in it (and then there are my posts, but hey, no thread is perfect).

 

[Mullaney]

Hey guys, just joined after spending the last few days reading through this thread (I'm up to page 100) picking up my new to me SEE in a couple weeks. Always wanted a unimog but never really had an excuse to buy one until I found this thing for sale while looking for a tractor. I live in BC, Canada and I don't imagine a lot of SEEs made it over the border. I found one other one for sale on the other side of the country for a crazy price and have a line on a parts rig semi locally. May be in for a little electrical work as that seems to be a common issue with these. The seller agreed to knock a thousand off the price if he can't get the lights working by the time I pick it up. Body is clean and seems to be in decent shape mechanically beside needing rear axle seals and some work on the power steering system. Will be sure to post some pictures once I pick it up.

.
Welcome to the Outfit!

Since you have been reading, I'm sure you have see the word "TM" mentioned. We do have the Technical Manuals hosted here, so be sure to download those. And like @glcaines suggested - We Need Pictures! - please.

 

[ODB]

Thanks for the welcome, still have lots of reading to do but went over today to finish the transaction. Having it towed home tomorrow. The diagnosed bad power steering pump appears to just be a loose/worn belt. Hopefully the other issues are as easy to fix! Unfortunately I won't have much time to play with it as it will be home in the evening tomorrow and I leave the next day for work for 2 weeks.

 

[peakbagger]

Thanks for the welcome, still have lots of reading to do but went over today to finish the transaction. Having it towed home tomorrow. The diagnosed bad power steering pump appears to just be a loose/worn belt. Hopefully the other issues are as easy to fix! Unfortunately I won't have much time to play with it as it will be home in the evening tomorrow and I leave the next day for work for 2 weeks.

Broken Record TIme, Get the manual and do the point by point inspection of the vehicle, you will learn a lot and maybe catch a few major issues (like portal axles that need gearoil)

 

[glcaines]

Ever since I received my FLU419, I’ve had issues with the valve body for the stabilizers. The stabilizer on the passenger side would extend, and stick, causing the stabilizer to extend all the way and I always had trouble retracting it. I finally had enough and decided to replace it. The stabilizers have a separate valve body mounted on the rear of the rest of the valve bodies. New valve bodies are hard to find and very expensive. You can rebuild the old valve bodies if you can find the parts. I got lucky. I searched for the part number on Ebay and found one at auction for $100.00, ex-military surplus. I was the only bidder. It was NOS and in perfect condition. However, replacing that valve body was a real pain. I had to dismount the backhoe, which wasn’t a big deal. Then I had to disconnect a large number of hydraulic fittings. I had to buy several large wrenches for the fittings. Some of the fitting were so tight and/or corroded I had to strap a 3-foot piece of pipe to the wrenches to gain enough leverage to loosen the fittings. Fortunately, none broke. The stabilizer valve body is only held on by two bolts, so that wasn’t a big issue once the other hydraulic lines were out of the way. Then I had to remove all of the hydraulic fittings from the old valve body and transfer them to the new valve body. Some were easy, but some required the use of a ¾ inch impact wrench. The other issue was that a total of 7 O-rings were required. The original O-rings were trash and needed replacement. I had a hard time finding new O-rings. The part numbers had been superseded for new part numbers. I finally found the O-rings I needed and put everything back together. Installing the NOS valve body was again a real pain, getting the large diameter tubing oriented correctly to get the threads started without cross-threading. I forgot to mention that I was doing this work out in the open and we continuously had heavy rain and thunderstorms. I had a tarp over everything, hoping to avoid getting water in all of the open fittings. After everything was hooked up, I started the engine and engaged the PTO looking for hydraulic oil leaks. Fortunately, not a single leak! I then remounted the backhoe and went back to work digging a trench. Really nice that the stabilizers now go up and down very smoothly!

NOS Valve Body Found On Ebay


Old Valve Body Prior to Removal


Stabilizer Valve Body Removed


New Valve Body Installed

 

[The FLU farm]

I left the backhoe in place and folded up when messing with my outrigger valve. Not many hoses in the way, really.
Then again, I never removed the valve itself, just the plug at the bottom, so I could pull the guts out and clean things up.

Glad you got yours fixed, too. Having the outrigger not retract was a bit of a pain at times.

 

[rtrask]

Has anyone had experience with the pressure relief valve on the swing cylinders leaking. I have looked through the TM ( not exhaustively ) but I have not found anything too helpful. It started a couple of months after I repacked the cylinder. I'm guessing it may just be an O ring that failed, but experience is worth a million guesses.

 

[The FLU farm]

Where is it? What does it look like?

There's something leaking a bit in that general area on mine, but I haven't tried finding the source.

 

[brandan34]

Hi all, Last year I started working on one of these. It probably should have been parted out, but has proved to be a great learning experiance. I replaced the engine and transimission last winter before calving out hundreds of cows, then making hay and now my slow season again I got the cab back on and I am continuing to put it back together.
Still Need to do a new coolant tank,
Fix air system(started at the engine the first two things were plugged solid, the tube across the frame was in good shape though which I understand is a common problem
Bleed the brakes.
Misc wiring problems.

Today I went to see if it would drive at all, found the power steering hose was leaking when under pressure, err parts ordered.

Then for the heck of it tried moving it, it shifts into gear fine but no movement. PTO works if engaged. Does anyone know if I have no air to the cylinder on the transmission can that be in neutral and not let the machine move, even if high/low and 1,2,3,4 are in gear? EDIT:Searched this thread and found that yes, no air can mean the tranny does not work

On wiring any idea what type of connectors they are between the cab and body of the mog? There are a half dozen or so 6 and 8 pin connectors and I really need to replace the plastic part of them.

Thanks,
Brandan

 

[brandan34]

Working on the air lines, thank you all for the diagram a while back on how it should lay. Have any of you guys actually worked on yours?


Looking at mine with an eye to getting air to the tranny, there is only a vauge resemblance to the diagram. Near as i can tell only way to get air to the tranny stuff is if the 4wheel drive is on, which is not right. Anyone else have simaler experience? (Parts of the wiring are just as messed up so not surprised.)

If i wanted to just put an air compressor to one of the air fittings on the tranny to get it in gear would it stay in gear?

 

[glcaines]

Working on the air lines, thank you all for the diagram a while back on how it should lay. Have any of you guys actually worked on yours?
Looking at mine with an eye to getting air to the tranny, there is only a vauge resemblance to the diagram. Near as i can tell only way to get air to the tranny stuff is if the 4wheel drive is on, which is not right. Anyone else have simaler experience? (Parts of the wiring are just as messed up so not surprised.)
If i wanted to just put an air compressor to one of the air fittings on the tranny to get it in gear would it stay in gear?

If you don't have sufficient air pressure to the transmission Intermediate Speed Control the piston won't slide back and forth selecting low and high range. There can be other causes as well. In my case, the piston was corroded and my FLU419 broke down on the highway. It was working fine and then all of a sudden, it was like I was in neutral, with no forward gears and no reverse. Check out posts 5281 and 5282. Have you read the TM? There is some very good information there. The easiest way to troubleshoot the problem is to remove the interior plate where the shifters are. Once this is removed, you have direct access to the pneumatic lines to the top of the transmission and if it happens that you have a similar issue like I did, you can lift off the top of the transmission quite easily. One note, you need to have the air pressure charged to near full pressure before the intermediate speed control will function. The whole pneumatic system in this area is quite simple. Do you have a copy of the Student Handout on the FLU419? This document is invaluable if working on a FLU419. I've attached a copy in case you don't have a copy.

 

[ODB]

Got the SEE home a couple weeks ago. Was an interesting day involving having to drive it onto a ferry and then loading it on the trailer and going over on another ferry. Got home with a few hours to play before having to fly out for work the next day. Got back home yesterday and tackled the power steering. Changed all three belts, ps was a bitch to change. Fixed both doors, drivers side was missing the button and pass side wouldn't latch. Next on the list is to check all portal/diff/trans oils and adjust the throttle linkage so I can shut it off properly.

 

[rtrask]

... Got back home yesterday and tackled the power steering. Changed all three belts, ps was a bitch to change. Fixed both doors, drivers side was missing the button and pass side wouldn't latch. Next on the list is to check all portal/diff/trans oils and adjust the throttle linkage so I can shut it off properly.

Sounds like you had quite the adventure getting it home. That inner belt is a real pain in the rear without the cab tilted. I expect that job is in my near future again. IMHO that is one of the biggest design flaws of the system. The belt that drives the hydraulics for the front loader takes a real beating and should be easier to swap out.

I have lost the outside drivers handle on mine, and just put my finger through the hole to open the door. When you say yours was missing the button, what did you do to fix it? I haven't looked for a replacement handle. Does anyone know how hard they are to come by?

On the doors, keep the hinges well oiled. Those pins have a tendency to seize up, and can be a pain to deal with.

 

[glcaines]

Just completed digging quite a length of trench with the backhoe and everything was working perfectly. Until today when I started the engine to move the SEE to where I normally park it. The alternator isn't charging and the tachometer isn't reading. I imagine the tachometer is driven by the alternator like a lot of vehicles. Something else to fix!

 

[ODB]

Sounds like you had quite the adventure getting it home. That inner belt is a real pain in the rear without the cab tilted. I expect that job is in my near future again. IMHO that is one of the biggest design flaws of the system. The belt that drives the hydraulics for the front loader takes a real beating and should be easier to swap out.

I have lost the outside drivers handle on mine, and just put my finger through the hole to open the door. When you say yours was missing the button, what did you do to fix it? I haven't looked for a replacement handle. Does anyone know how hard they are to come by?

On the doors, keep the hinges well oiled. Those pins have a tendency to seize up, and can be a pain to deal with.

I actually found the button under the driver's seat, the bolt had fallen out inside the door. Ei has the non locking handle for about $100 and locking for double.

 

[rtrask]

Just completed digging quite a length of trench with the backhoe and everything was working perfectly. Until today when I started the engine to move the SEE to where I normally park it. The alternator isn't charging and the tachometer isn't reading. I imagine the tachometer is driven by the alternator like a lot of vehicles. Something else to fix!

Yep the tach is driiven off the alternator. The TM has a good section on diagnosing the alternator. It has been a few years since I went through mine, but if you have a multi-meter you should be able to track down the issue fairly fast. Before you pull it though check your ground to the instrument panel I would lay money that is where the issue is

 

[rtrask]

I actually found the button under the driver's seat, the bolt had fallen out inside the door. Ei has the non locking handle for about $100 and locking for double.

For $100 I think I will keep pokeing finger through the hole. Thanks though.

Maybe I can find one that someone is parting out..

 

[hrbergeron]

Anyone know the part number for the top quick disconnect fittings for the front end loader? The -24P TM NSN isn't returning to anything online. I also need the male fitting. I'm curious if this part on EI is the right one, the part number on the site does not return to anything in the TM.

Just finished replacing all 3 v belts and every single hydraulic hose on the front and rear.

EDIT
Well I figured it out. They are Parker numbers. Looks like cheapest source is eBay with some surplus ones available.

Male is VHN8-8EM
Female is VHC-8-8EM

 

[The FLU farm]

They should be the much better flat face version.

As I recall, the ones on the tool reel are the same, so get the part numbers from those. I've used Google, then eBay from there.