FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Another Ahab]

BA7s bulbs are very popular in Europe. However, I was told that if I use lower wattage bulbs that they didn't put out much light and the plastic cover really diminished the results. Mercedes warned me that the higher wattage bulbs tended to melt the plastic due to the heat. I'll try the LED bulbs which should be bright enough and not put out much heat.

Liking how Mercedes is "someone" you can actually contact and talk to:

- My guess is that most manufacturers liklely can't even be reached for any kind of discussion

Did you actually talk with a human contact?

 

[glcaines]

Yes, I contacted Mercedes in Germany. I got transferred 4 - 5 times before I got to someone that had any technical information. I initially indicated that I was an investor. That got me by the automatic no help. That process is my secret weapon when you need help with any public traded company. Once within that group, I requested someone in a customer service / technical support position familiar with Unimogs or trucks that were 24 VDC. The guy was very friendly and helpful and his English was better than mine. I always start with asking for Investor Relations.

 

[Another Ahab]

Yes, I contacted Mercedes in Germany. I got transferred 4 - 5 times before I got to someone that had any technical information. I initially indicated that I was an investor. That got me by the automatic no help. That process is my secret weapon when you need help with any public traded company. Once within that group, I requested someone in a customer service / technical support position familiar with Unimogs or trucks that were 24 VDC. The guy was very friendly and helpful and his English was better than mine.

Excellent tactical move, glcaines!

I'm adding that to my kit:

- Thanks, Brother!!

 

[The FLU farm]

Speaking of LEDs.

In the past couple of days I've been working on getting the lighting functional on the FLUs. One had a dim work light, turned out to be resistance in the head/work light switch. But the first one I bought had nothing...other than power to the work lights.

Disgusting, really, that a pair of $18 lights didn't quite make it to 10 years. Oh well, I have a stash of replacements so that was an easy fix.

Last, and least, is the HMMH. No power even to the fuses for the forward lighting. That might become fun to figure out. Started with that one and spent some time on it before deciding to reward myself by fixing the easy ones first.

 

[Another Ahab]

Speaking of LEDs.
No power even to the fuses for the forward lighting. That might become fun to figure out. Started with that one and spent some time on it before deciding to reward myself by fixing the easy ones first.View attachment 930217

It helps, FLU farm, right?!

Get your spirits up before you enter what may become Darkness (you know, so-to-speak).

 

[glcaines]

Where is the brake light diode mounted? Mine was simply hanging on the end of the wire on the front wiring harness and not mounted. I couldn't find it in the TMs.
EDIT: Found it.

 

[glcaines]

I'm in the middle of replacing the front wiring harness on my FLU419 due to severe mouse damage. I have it installed, but some things don't work anymore. I'm slowly getting it sorted out with about 98% functionality. However, one of the things that has me puzzled is the air compressor. The air compressor worked and charged the tanks fine prior to removal of the old wiring harness and installation of the new harness. Now, my air compressor never engages. As far as I can tell, there are no electrical connections that would impact the air compressor from being energized. I can't find anything in the TMs, the Student Handbook, etc. There is obviously something I'm overlooking.

 

[The FLU farm]

Hmm. The compressor is direct driven and always runs when the engine is. Or should. Either way, nothing you did with the wiring could impact the function of the compressor.

I'd guess that the compressor does pump air, but it doesn't get to the tanks anymore. Is the regulator flowing air?

 

[glcaines]

I know the compressor is supposed to run all the time, but it was charging the tanks until I swapped the wiring harness with a new one. I guess it's possible there was a failure somewhere in the pneumatic system that coincided with my work. I don't hear any mechanical noise from the compressor, there are no noises from air leaks or air discharges, but zero air is getting to the tanks. I'm going to disconnect the output line from the compressor and see what I get. I'm still working on swapping the wiring harness, but I'm about 99% done with that. Swapping that harness is a real bear. The new harness has all of the connectors labeled, but the labels aren't on the schematic. Some of the wires on the new harness have wire numbers from the schematic, but not very many. The wiring harness I got from EI is very well made, I just wish I had access to information on the numbered connectors. I contacted the vendor that manufactured the replacement wiring harness, but they told me everyone on that project is now retired and they dumped all of their documentation years ago.

 

[Another Ahab]

The wiring harness I got from EI is very well made, I just wish I had access to information on the numbered connectors. I contacted the vendor that manufactured the replacement wiring harness, but they told me everyone on that project is now retired and they dumped all of their documentation years ago.

That seems short-sighted; almost criminal.

But, yeah, business management doesn't always much give a damn about history.

 

[glcaines]

I pulled the outlet tube from the compressor. Zero air coming out, so I pulled the head. Obviously, the valve is bad. I ordered a new head complete with both valves. The cylinder bore looked perfect, so I didn't pull the piston. I also noticed that the inlet tube was smashed almost closed, so I ordered a new inlet tube.

 

[Migginsbros]

No air in , so no air out?

 

[glcaines]

No air in , so no air out?

No, the inlet tube wasn't completely closed, only about 50% closed off. It was obvious that the damage to the tube occurred years ago, likely when the engine was removed while the Army still had it. There was heavy grease and dirt all over the tube where the damage occurred, and no sign that the grease and dirt had been recently disturbed. There was absolutely no air coming from the compressor. I read online that failure of the valves in the head was a fairly common problem with those compressors. EI has the tubes in stock for $71.90, so I ordered one. The best price I could find for the head was for a new one from a company in Estonia.

 

[Another Ahab]

No, the inlet tube wasn't completely closed, only about 50% closed off. I EI has the tubes in stock for $71.90, so I ordered one. The best price I could find for the head was for a new one from a company in Estonia.

Hooray for the Internet!

 

[majkowskid]

well, i started on my wiring harness replacement. with help to a couple members on here, i got the loader removed (way easier than i thought) and the stock harness out. more than 30 wires were completely severed, missing, etc. from rodent damage. harness removal wasn't too bad actually. i bought the new harness from EI and i have it about 90% labeled for reinstallation. will be trying to install the new one friday. will report back my results next week!

 

[Migginsbros]

@glcaines
Compressor head. We wanted to change both valves in the head from our friends 406. Checked which on failed. Scewed it out and we found a 3/8 long piece from the spring between the valve plate and his seat. So we only changed the spring (still availlable from Mercedes) for cents.

 

[glcaines]

I'm still in the middle of replacing the head on my compressor. I removed the old head with the wheel still in place which was not a difficult job. However, the new head I received from Estonia came with a much thicker head gasket and additionally a gasket to go between the cylinder and engine block, which the FLU 419 didn't have initially. I need to remove the cylinder and clean the sealing area on the block and also on the cylinder. It is virtually impossible without removing the wheel. I can't get any of the lug nuts loose to remove the wheel. I've use a 1/2 inch impact, a 3/4 inch impact and finally a 1 inch impact wrench. No help. I put a 3/4 inch drive impact socket on my 3-foot long torque wrench and none would come loose. I finally put a 2 foot long piece of pipe on the end of the 3 foot long handle on the torque wrench. I sheared the Chinese impact socket in half! My wheel is still on. Some of the lug nuts are now somewhat damaged. I think the next step is to heat the lug nuts with my acetylene torch. I've ordered new lug nuts, but haven't received them yet. It wasn't me that overtightened the lug nuts!

 

[The FLU farm]

I would avoid heating anything and instead put a few drops of acetone/ATF on the threads and let it work - over a few days.

My 1-inch hydraulic hydraulic impact , good for about 2,500 ft .-lbs., would likely remove the nuts, but together with the studs. And overall I've had much better results from using finesse instead of brute force.