abfisher1798
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Is your a photo of a unit on a MTV or a concept of one?Like this...
I’m interested……
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Is your a photo of a unit on a MTV or a concept of one?Like this...
on MTVIs your a photo of a unit on a MTV or a concept of one?
I’m interested……
I've read the earlier discussions on the DC power unit, though it was not clear to me on how to pick an adequate replacement.Yea you can replace the air op unit with a 12 or 24v DC hydraulic power unit. It also doesn’t take one very large to simply run the cab lift or tire crane. In fact you want one sub 1 Gallon Per Minute(closer to 1/2GPM). Any more than that and it will simply build to full pressure and push the excess thru the relief valve. and it will draw electric current in relation to the flow it can produce, so small is a good thing…
it is real easy if you keep the manifold valve. If you get rid of the manifold valve you need to provide for flow control like the manifold does with restricted orifices. The cylinders have a safety feature that they can only flow fluid so fast or they will lock up. You need to control the flow speed like the orifices in the manifold do to keep this from happening…
.I've read the earlier discussions on the DC power unit, though it was not clear to me on how to pick an adequate replacement.
For those that have made the DC conversion, what power unit did you end up using? A PN or link would be very helpful. Maybe even a few photos of the install.
Thanks!
If you are just replacing the AOP, something like the below unit should work. The cab lift cylinder for instance requires just under 0.2 gallons of fluid to lift fully. My AOP lifts mine just under 60 seconds, so it is about a 0.2 GPM pump. That is a bit long of a duty cycle for a small electric pump, so to stay within a reasonable duty cycle of say 30 seconds, you would want a pump around 0.4GPM capacity At the required pressure.I've read the earlier discussions on the DC power unit, though it was not clear to me on how to pick an adequate replacement.
For those that have made the DC conversion, what power unit did you end up using? A PN or link would be very helpful. Maybe even a few photos of the install.
Thanks!
here is specs incase they sell out or link goes bad for some reasonIf you are just replacing the AOP, something like the below unit should work. .....
New Arrivals | www.surpluscenter.com
New Arrivals, 3.5" x 10" x 2" DOUBLE ACTING HYDRAULIC CYLINDER New, Bailey 320-650, welded, double acting hydraulic cylinder.www.surpluscenter.com
what is the one you are thinking of for straight manual?.....
This is the one I was going to use until I decided to go straight manual. .....
A 1.5cu/in Prince Wolverine. It is a dual action pump, so pumps handle up and down(installed pump is only single acting). And it has a valve for controlling a dual action cylinder(extend&retract).what is the one you are thinking of for straight manual?
That spare was moving like it had a purposeFirst run. No control valves or tweaking yet. Yep, draws serious current, but don't care.
Can’t see the videos
I received the Wolverine hand pump and mocked it up to test it. The math(and guestimates) were pretty close, but it only takes 26 full strokes for the cab to reach the balance point from down and locked. I calculated the peak force to be around #45 on the end of the 20” lever, but it is actually less than #42 at the high pressure point just above the cab latch, as I can hang a 5gal bucket full of water on the end of the handle and it will just move the lever down. Considering how often the cab is typically raised, not an unmanageable load to pump. I brought it up and down 5 times in quick succession and my arms were starting to get a little tired after that It is also fast, I can pump the cab up faster than the AOP with full air tankswhat is the one you are thinking of for straight manual?
could one put a variable flow restrictor (fancy needle valve) in one of the lines (return?) to slow it down more for lowering cab?... With the valve lever in the full lower position, It lowers fast enough to start to trip the safety lockout on the cylinder(cab starts bouncing as the safety locks & unlocks). It is also faster than I am comfortable with, but I think it will work out well for my plans…
Yep, I have already specced the part and it is in a shopping cart awaiting my next order the one I planning on using will go on the line to the bottom of the cylinder. it incorporates a check valve so will be full flow during raise and restricted/metered during lowering... I will get a video of it and should probably start a new thread as this is a little off topic(but we were discussing alternatives)...could one put a variable flow restrictor (fancy needle valve) in one of the lines (return?) to slow it down more for lowering cab?
Works good, except for me leaving its vent uncovered and saturating the oil with water. Just relocated it back behind the fuel tank so I can start cutting huck bolts to remove the mid structure, and changed the emulsified oil…Ronmar, updates?.. all bugaboos found and corrected?... needless to say a manual pump, bypassing the fussiness if the a/o system would be a must have..
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