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How are you mounting the unistrut/walls to sprayed on insulation walls ?Been working on habitat prep, doesn't really make for interesting pictures. Will be putting up wood paneling with an unitrut structure on the inside where I can attach all cabinets, beds, etc. Making for a very strong and modular setup.
Took it out on snowy roads for the first time today. Learned a few things.
1. This thing is heavy and doesn't like to stop super well on hills. It will try to swap ends going down hill - got about 30 degrees sideways when rear brakes locked preferentially over fronts. ABS would prevent this (see note below), but then I couldn't get the snow building up in front of the tires.
2. It's more capable on slippery roads than all my neighbors 2wd vehicles that couldn't climb the hills near us.
3. ABS disengages in every mode except HWY on CTIS controller (ABS light blinks). This may be standard but I haven't seen this mentioned before. I did replace the ABS controller so maybe this one is programmed a little different.
4. C7 uses 0.5gal/hr at normal idle, 1.0gal/hr at high idle - per CAT ET
5. C7 warm-up mode with the pac brake doesn't automatically turn off - it will stay on till radiator fand engages
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Top 4 corners are directly bolted to the box though a thermal break, bottom rails lag screwed to plywood floor, along the 18' length at the top there will be tensioning bolts that go through the foam. Will be very structurally strong and minimal disturbance to the insulation.How are you mounting the unistrut/walls to sprayed on insulation walls ?
These floors are really great 1 1/4 bambo i was told so really good anchoring points i was just curious how you were going to keep the walls straight without drilling thru the sides and top of the box ! I started with a one trip 20 footer as well i hope to see more folks experiment with these things ! Keep up the good work !Top 4 corners are directly bolted to the box though a thermal break, bottom rails lag screwed to plywood floor, along the 18' length at the top there will be tensioning bolts that go through the foam. Will be very structurally strong and minimal disturbance to the insulation.
I really prefer the shipping container over the fiberglass sandwich stuff. Much tougher, don't have to worry about branches, can mount all sorts of stuff to it due to the strength of the structure. Strong enough to be rollover structure. Steel also seems to just fit better with the military truck ethos.These floors are really great 1 1/4 bambo i was told so really good anchoring points i was just curious how you were going to keep the walls straight without drilling thru the sides and top of the box ! I started with a one trip 20 footer as well i hope to see more folks experiment with these things ! Keep up the good work !
Yes my thoughts as well when i started looking for a boxI really prefer the shipping container over the fiberglass sandwich stuff. Much tougher, don't have to worry about branches, can mount all sorts of stuff to it due to the strength of the structure. Strong enough to be rollover structure. Steel also seems to just fit better with the military truck ethos.
.I really prefer the shipping container over the fiberglass sandwich stuff. Much tougher, don't have to worry about branches, can mount all sorts of stuff to it due to the strength of the structure. Strong enough to be rollover structure. Steel also seems to just fit better with the military truck ethos.
Oh I have, also why my head isn't squished to a pancake.
You might want to take a look @chucky 's build thread.
There is a world of good information in it...
.CHUCKY'S TREE HOUSE !
Just put 5 gallons of 383 on my 1083 camper ! Mixed 4 part 383 1 part laquer thinner and it came out great .There was some concern with the Rapco being to glossy so i used 4 to 1 paint and laquer thinner shot it outside in 80 degree sunshine i shot 5 gallons and not 1 run and thats not because...steelsoldiers.com
.Oh I have, also why my head isn't squished to a pancake
Its not as common when its new to ya its when you have had it a couple years and you get a little to comfortable then it gets ya !Oh I have, also why my head isn't squished to a pancake
If your going to add 24v winches then yeah for sure go back to 4 batts.. (and appropriate alternator). If not doing 24v. winches (or 12) then spend cost of two more batts on a diesel fired coolant heater system. That would more roundly serve your needs IMHOTried to start the truck today after it's been cold soaking all night and is -9°F. The two 6TLs just didn't have enough t...
Batteries are new and fully charged. I bet with a battery heater it could have done it, or if it had the extra 2 6TLs.
Like what you're doing. So, this will be permanently affixed to the cargo side and have attachment points to remove for cab tilt? Or will it be removable on both sides? Still curious to see how it will work out.Welded up the pass though box, .125" so it's heavy but strong. Trusty old Lincoln flux core welder worked great.
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Not sure about winch yet, but if I do it will probably be electric.If your going to add 24v winches then yeah for sure go back to 4 batts.. (and appropriate alternator). If not doing 24v. winches (or 12) then spend cost of two more batts on a diesel fired coolant heater system. That would more roundly serve your needs IMHO
It will be attached above the air box with bellows on each side, both removable.Like what you're doing. So, this will be permanently affixed to the cargo side and have attachment points to remove for cab tilt? Or will it be removable on both sides? Still curious to see how it will work out.
they make coolant battery warmers.... or simple tiny car heater core plumbed into battery areaNot sure about winch yet, but if I do it will probably be electric.
I'm sure the heater would help some, but unless I heated the batteries I don't know if it would be enough. Was considering a 24v jump pack that could be kept warm.
It's a shame alternators are so dang expensive for these trucks.
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