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Front axle problem

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
748
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
The piston is the "hydraulic piston" that pushes the pad onto the rotor. It is pushed by the fluid moving through the brake lines. If it gets corroded it will not release the pressure and make the brake "drag".
 
The caliper is the big thingy holding the pads against the rotor. The big round bulg is where the piston inside is llocated. Sometimes if you give it a good wack with a small hammer when it is cold, it will free itself enough to let you get home. If not, you can borrow our raft to get the auto parts store down the road in our little town called Deliverance...:mrgreen::roll:
 

airmech3839

Member
842
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
Did it seem like both tire initially locked up and now only one is still "froze"? If they both initially locked up then I would say you may have a diff that has jammed.. but one shaft may have snapped the uni and now that one is spinning free.. I would say that if you lost a uni it would spin freely unless it got its parts all jammed up.

The first thing I would try is to unlock the hub and see if she spins freely.

If she does not move on to the brake bleeder idea.

If that is a no then try and get her on jacks cause you got problems.
If its the axle you should be rolling as soon as you unlock the hubs.
If its the brake then you will need to get it up off the ground and pull the tire and check out you caliper situation. It may require replacing that caliper and or both calipers and rotors, if the rotor got damaged. Or it is a bad bearing....

If the brake has pressure at bleeder with no input from you then I would have it towed to the house. Hope you get it home. Never had this happen but just thinking of the systems involved for best troubleshooting. Read in the T.O. about the brake system and the axle and bearing to familiarize yourself before you head back out to her.
 

Bobert

Member
472
8
18
Location
Des Moines/ Iowa
Hey CROM,
If you need any help when you go get it let me know. I am in Des Moines on the west side and might be able to help. I have tools and a towbar.



A fellow SS member and I were towing a scrap m1009 when the pass front caliper seized, we just cut the brake line and it eventually freed up.

If you want an extra hand, let me know I will be putting around the garage all day tomorrow.

Robert


Also, what highway is it on? I need extra parts :-D
 
Last edited:

CROM

New member
180
0
0
Location
Des Moines, IA
Thanks Airmech, that's a good list. Bobert, good to see someone close by....i may give a shout this weekend if you're free. Randydirt, yes it pulled me right off the road to the RIGHT...i initially thought my right front tire was flat or off the rim it was such pull. How can i check if it's the wheel bearing, though?
 

airmech3839

Member
842
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
You will probably just have to pull it and inspect. If it failed you will know it when you see it. I just tried opening my CUCV manuals and forgot my adobe has a bug and says "invalid plug-in" and closes... oh well.. check it out and let us know how it goes!
 

RANDYDIRT

New member
403
4
0
Location
Furlow Ar.
Oh, you will know Grasshopper. You will know. First thing is to get it to a safe place to work on. Jack it up and start pulling it apart.
1. Pull the wheel
2. Look for anything out of the ordinary with the u-joint, brakes, etc. It will tell you what is wrong if you look deep enough.
3. Pull the locking hub off and look inside.
4. Undo the spindle nut... etc. etc...

Just pretend that you are a surgeon looking for that elusive tumor or a hidden 9mm bullet. There will always be indications that will lead you to what you need to fix.

Dr. Dirt
 

CROM

New member
180
0
0
Location
Des Moines, IA
Again, thank all of you for the input! I just limped home this morning and am ready to begin the operation. I do have the CUCV manuals, so I'm not afraid to tackle anything.... I've noticed that it makes a clicking/poping (not quite grinding) noise as i move along. It makes this same noise when rolling in neutral. I was able to unlock both hubs and the drive shaft spins freely, with no noise. I was afraid to get up to any more speed than idle (long 5 miles...), so the "seaze up" didn't happen again....i'll get my hands dirty and report back in a few hours!
 

CROM

New member
180
0
0
Location
Des Moines, IA
Alright, here's an update. I've looked at all the u joints, and none SEEM outwardly broken...would it be obvious?.....I jacked the front end up, and in 2WD the rear tires start to spin when gassed, but front tires do not! This was with the hubs unlocked....is that normal?? I'm currently pulling the wheel apart to check things out because it still sounds like it's catching or grinding inside somewhere...
 

kassim503

New member
383
3
0
Location
Stony Brook, NY
Yup, the front axle wont engage unless the hubs are locked, The U-joints in question are directly behind the wheel near the knuckle. Try locking the hub on that side and seeing if there is play or something else in there that binds up while rotating the tire by hand.

Oh, if you have bad wheel bearings, once you pull the spindle down to the wheel bearings the #1 sign for bad bearings is metal shavings in grease.
 

bronconut

New member
38
0
0
Location
wisconsin
If there is no obvious sign of broken parts, before you remove your tires grab the top and bottom and see if ther is any play, then spin the tire listening for any noise,. a bad bearing will have play or sound rough. then lock hub in,turn tire all the way to one side and spin tire again, if the tire tries to turn straight then you have a seized u-joint. also look for ANY rust coming out of the caps, this is also a sign of a bad u-joint.
 
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