Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

[jimm1009]

The hubs have two slots cut in them 180 degrees from each other.
You need to wipe all the grease out of the outboard area of the outer race in order to see them.
It will take an 8 to 10 inch punch to knock them out. A good size it 5/16 diameter.
Knock on one side twice and then the other side twice and then back to the first side and so forth and so forth. You will have to drive it almost 7/16 of an inch before it breakes loose and falls out.

You can use the old race to start the new one in it's place but don't drive the old one too far or it will get stuck in there too.

Note: I would set the drum up on two 2 x 4 blocks of wood to aid in drivng out the outboard outer race.

jimm1009

 

[FL_Frank]

Thank you for resurrecting this excellent guide - was looking for it the other day and could not find it for the PM of the front hubs/brakes this weekend =)

 

[ARYankee]

I sticky most threads that I know that I will be referencing in the future and this so happened to be one of them. It is a really informative thread.

 

[parlusk]

thanks for this

 

[Floridianson]

I made this to remove the axle seal retainer.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Floridianson, can you provide the dimensions of the piece that goes behind the retainer on your tool?

 

[Floridianson]

Yes I will look today. I do know it is 1/2 thick.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Extremely helpful thread! I will need to use this as a reference when I do my BOOTS!

 

[bsorcs]

I bought this one at a local wheel/trailer supply house for about $35. It works reasonably well, but I still spend a few minutes packing by hand. I figure it saves me 3-5 minutes per bearing, based on having packed the first 6 by hand.

Product Detail

 

[welding duece]

this morning i attempted to rebuild a wheel cylinder and found i was in for a much larger project (front axle rebuild). so i came to my favorite website and started searching. and thanks to this thread i now have a parts list and a list of tools i need to pick up before going any farther. and i also have step by step inscructions with detailed pictures to guide me along the way. thanks

 

[oddshot]

This morning I attempted to rebuild a wheel cylinder and found I was in for a much larger project (front axle rebuild).

So I came to my favorite website and started searching.

Its just like a big ol' library ain't it?

I got my silicone boots and seals about a week ago and as soon as I get a chance ... I got to tear into mine.

Thanks for looking this up ... you save me some searchin'

oddshot

 

[Tinwoodsman]

I did the complete stepxstep with silicone boots. Some advice.

Use the steel rod to knock out the axle seal retainer. The easiest way. I paid 5 bucks for a 6' rod.

You cannot have enough paper towels and break cleaner.

Good luck.

 

[Clay James]

I used this guide to do mine. Now it's leaking on the left side and I gotta do it again

 

[treeguy]

I just wanted to thank Banshee for all of the great step by step photos that give a guy an idea of whats in there. THANK YOU!!

 

[oddshot]

I used this guide to do mine. Now it's leaking on the left side and I gotta do it again

NNNNNNNnnnnnnnnnnooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!


What kind of boot did you put in?

How long ago?

Sorry. Words cannot express ...

oddshot

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Did you replace the inner seals?

 

[Clay James]

The boots are fine, it's just the left inner axle seal that's leaking again. It shouldn't be as hard this time since I don't have to take the knuckles apart. I replaced it last December and it started leaking when I was offroading and went into a hole pretty hard. My friend made it through in his but I found out the hard way that my fronts aren't locking in and I got stuck. The air cylinder is leaking around the cap on the end so I think that's why. Two of the rears are leaking too but I haven't replaced those yet so who know how old the seals are. This truck loves to give me trouble.

 

[whyme]

Remove the rest of the bolts holding the kingpin bushings in place. On the passangers side there is a bushing on top and bottom and seperate plates over them with the zerk grease fittings. The Drivers side has the bushing and plate on the bottom, but bushing and steering arm instead of the plate on the top. The top also has studs and nuts instead of bolts.

-Kelly

im having a serious issue removing the stearing arm from the drivers side, i have removed the nuts from the studs but the arm wont budge. after beating at it i noticed that there are tapered insets that compress around the studs to hold everything tight. my problem is they are in there good and holding tight.

any suggestions?

 

[Tinwoodsman]

I found that if you insert a small blade screwdriver in to the bushing slit and tap it in slightly, it frees up the bushing. I did apply some PB blaster prior to doing it to help loosen things up. Good luck.

 

[pat038536]

I beat the arm with a BFH until I noticed the conical washers.

If you have the lower bolts removed you can strike the knuckle downwards (don't hit the grease fitting!) and it should move the knuckle downwards a bit to open up a gap in between the arm and the top plate. Then reinstall a couple of the lower bolts and the gap should get large enough to wiggle the arm to move the washers. Don't mangle the washers when removing them because you're going to reuse them.

Spraying everything with penetrating lube will help.