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Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

TJP

Member
169
0
16
Location
PHX/AZ
GREAT THREAD,

Can not wait to see the brakes go back on.

Thanks for all the pics they help us visual people.[thumbzup]
 

aggopian

New member
183
4
0
Location
King, NC (As of April 1st)
For Tie Rod removal you could try "shocking" the taper. A couple hard whacks on the side of the spindle arm usually do the trick. I've used this method to great success. Works on tie rods and ball joints w/o damage to boots or threads. I would thread the nut on a bit to catch the part as it pops out.
Hope this helps.
 

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nk14zp

Active member
2,636
17
38
Location
Columbia Falls Maine
For Tie Rod removal you could try "shocking" the taper. A couple hard whacks on the side of the spindle arm usually do the trick. I've used this method to great success. Works on tie rods and ball joints w/o damage to boots or threads. I would thread the nut on a bit to catch the part as it pops out.
Hope this helps.
:ditto:
 

jblack6527

Member
362
3
18
Location
Weaverville NC
This might be a silly question, but do you pack the hubs with the same grease you pack the bearings with? I'm in the middle of doing this on my deuce, and I never realized there were so many different types of grease. lol Any recommendations on a type/brand of grease?
 

jblack6527

Member
362
3
18
Location
Weaverville NC
The only thing with that, is I don't recall seeing GAA at any parts house. Is there another grease that will do the same job, or do I need to get some from somewhere else? I'm assuming that GAA is Military?
 

paulfarber

New member
1,081
20
0
Location
Gordon, PA
Any grease rated for wheel bearings (GC-LB) will do fine. The grease really doesn't lubricate any parts.... more for corrosion control inside the knuckle).

Pennzoil 707L is what I use... a 4 lb tub is like $8 at Napa and is more than enough to get grease to the proper level.

Since the knuckle relies on that darn boot you really don't want a low-viscosity grease (like NLGI 0 or 1) because it will run out. NLGI 2 stays put.
 

paulfarber

New member
1,081
20
0
Location
Gordon, PA
The ole GAA.. sure its around.. but without shipping it or being next to a surplus center you ain't gonna find it on the shelf.

Modern lubes are so much better and cheaper. Modern NLGI meets/exceeded every GAA spec.

GAA Grease, automotive and artillery MIL-G-10924 NLGI #2 lithium grease

$8 for 4lbs and 707L is a pretty red.
 

Mike929

Member
820
22
18
Location
DFW, Tx
I'm going to have to do this soon and wanted to verify the "Shock" method of tie rod removal.

1) Remove cotter pin and remove castle nut.
2) Re-thread castle nut upside down on tie rod to hold tie rod end when it pops loose.
3) Take a BFH and hit the steering knuckle sharply at the tie rod joint
4) lightly tap tie rod/castle nut to see if it drops out. If not repeat 3) but a little harder
5) rejoice in tie rod separation and removal bliss
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
Noticed my boot / seal leaking today. Well, I didn't see the leak but noticed globs of grease on the tire.

I'll do a search but are zippered or non-zippered boots superior?

Better read up...
 

DieselBob

Active member
2,891
15
38
Location
Arnold Maryland
:ditto: what Countryboy21 said. That was the hardest part to get off of the entire process when I did the bushings, bearings, brakes and seals. Hitting like it said in the TM didn't even budge mine. Liberal application of penetrating oil and working the cones out with a small chisel was the ticket.
 

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