Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

[TJP]

GREAT THREAD,

Can not wait to see the brakes go back on.

Thanks for all the pics they help us visual people.

 

[alanb]

subscribed

 

[aggopian]

For Tie Rod removal you could try "shocking" the taper. A couple hard whacks on the side of the spindle arm usually do the trick. I've used this method to great success. Works on tie rods and ball joints w/o damage to boots or threads. I would thread the nut on a bit to catch the part as it pops out.
Hope this helps.

 

[nk14zp]

For Tie Rod removal you could try "shocking" the taper. A couple hard whacks on the side of the spindle arm usually do the trick. I've used this method to great success. Works on tie rods and ball joints w/o damage to boots or threads. I would thread the nut on a bit to catch the part as it pops out.
Hope this helps.

 

[Countryboy21]

i have done the shock method along with a jack pushing the tie rod out and it just POPS out when shocked.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Ditto!

 

[jblack6527]

This might be a silly question, but do you pack the hubs with the same grease you pack the bearings with? I'm in the middle of doing this on my deuce, and I never realized there were so many different types of grease. lol Any recommendations on a type/brand of grease?

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Yes, Good old GAA

 

[jblack6527]

The only thing with that, is I don't recall seeing GAA at any parts house. Is there another grease that will do the same job, or do I need to get some from somewhere else? I'm assuming that GAA is Military?

 

[paulfarber]

Any grease rated for wheel bearings (GC-LB) will do fine. The grease really doesn't lubricate any parts.... more for corrosion control inside the knuckle).

Pennzoil 707L is what I use... a 4 lb tub is like $8 at Napa and is more than enough to get grease to the proper level.

Since the knuckle relies on that darn boot you really don't want a low-viscosity grease (like NLGI 0 or 1) because it will run out. NLGI 2 stays put.

 

[jblack6527]

Thanks Paul, just what I was looking for.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

I bought 2 gallon cans of GAA from Spucemountain Surplus.

 

[Mike929]

subscribed

What he said

 

[paulfarber]

The ole GAA.. sure its around.. but without shipping it or being next to a surplus center you ain't gonna find it on the shelf.

Modern lubes are so much better and cheaper. Modern NLGI meets/exceeded every GAA spec.

GAA Grease, automotive and artillery MIL-G-10924 NLGI #2 lithium grease

$8 for 4lbs and 707L is a pretty red.

 

[Mike929]

I'm going to have to do this soon and wanted to verify the "Shock" method of tie rod removal.

1) Remove cotter pin and remove castle nut.
2) Re-thread castle nut upside down on tie rod to hold tie rod end when it pops loose.
3) Take a BFH and hit the steering knuckle sharply at the tie rod joint
4) lightly tap tie rod/castle nut to see if it drops out. If not repeat 3) but a little harder
5) rejoice in tie rod separation and removal bliss

 

[JCKnife]

Noticed my boot / seal leaking today. Well, I didn't see the leak but noticed globs of grease on the tire.

I'll do a search but are zippered or non-zippered boots superior?

Better read up...

 

[Countryboy21]

the shock method rocks. but better have a BFH to make it work.

 

[jblack6527]

So, what's the trick to getting those split bushings out of the driver's side knuckle? I've beat on that thing, but can't get it loose.

 

[Countryboy21]

A lot of PB blaster get a water and come back and beat up on the back part of the arm with a BFH. I used two chisel to spin them and work them out. Just keep at it.

 

[DieselBob]

what Countryboy21 said. That was the hardest part to get off of the entire process when I did the bushings, bearings, brakes and seals. Hitting like it said in the TM didn't even budge mine. Liberal application of penetrating oil and working the cones out with a small chisel was the ticket.