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Fuel leak, over top of turbo, what is it?

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
I have developed a number of very small fuel leaks since I started running WMO, but I do not blame it on the fuel. At the same time I discovered my fuel pump had not been working.
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
I suspect this cold may also be part of our problems with contraction of parts too. Maintenance on spring loaded or compression parts, hoses, and orings could go up. Just a theory.
 

3dAngus

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63
Location
Perry, Ga.
OK, just got all lines plugged on both sides. Broke an injector line doing it. Went up to O'Reilys and got new line and brass compression rings and fit a new line on there where the flame heater fuel line hooks up at the "Tee". The old line was very brittle like plastic with no flex anymore to the formally clear rubberized tubing.

Truck seems to run better than ever. I guess it's kinda like a washed car kind of thing. Anyway, it runs right up to 55-56 at 2600 rpms faster than ever before and holds, unless it's uphill. Lower gears are better than ever for sure. I must have had a problem with that one fuel injector line. or, just all the driving and a new tank of fuel helped out. Not sure.
I'm ready for XMAS visitors now, and will hear back on my new injector for the flame burner on Monday, I hope. I'll post results and pricing if I do.
 
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jwright

New member
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1
0
Location
Freeman Mo
You know for what you spent on all the plugs and running around you could of just put two O rings it for about $3 and been done with it.
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
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101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
The new manifold heater at SECO is $98.45. Credit cards accepted.

I pulled the clip out as stated above, tried to pull the rest of it apart, and it didn't seem to want to work with me. I got it covered. Thanks.
 

rrrr

Member
752
0
16
Location
Missouri
Tried to rebuild mine but kept leaking. Pulled the system for the same reason as everyone else. Truck starts great without it.
 

jwright

New member
235
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0
Location
Freeman Mo
$99 :shock: Man I hate to see someone spend that kind of money. After you take the snap ring out you have to take the heater and tap it on some wood, its a tight fit. It will come out of there.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
After you take the snap ring out you have to take the heater and tap it on some wood, its a tight fit. It will come out of there.
I've got the snap ring out and I've not only tapped it on some wood, I've fully wound up and HEAVED it at a piece of 2x4 on the workbench and I can't get that metal cap to pop out.

I also tried getting a pick tool in around the edges to pry it out, but no dice.

Any other suggestions?
 

dutchguy

Member
85
1
8
Location
Lawton, Michigan
The new manifold heater at SECO is $98.45. Credit cards accepted.

I pulled the clip out as stated above, tried to pull the rest of it apart, and it didn't seem to want to work with me. I got it covered. Thanks.
Did you get your flame nozzle yet? I'm thinking of buying one from SECO as well, wonder if you had good luck.

I got my valve assembly all apart, of course I did not find what I was looking for. In the nozzle "subassembly", I found the thread here that showed what looked like a pin, three-legged piece, and shiny check ball. Mine had just the spring, and a smaller, black (plastic?) ball. Mine has been leaking into the intake, lots of fuel running out between the intake manifold and head. I'm putting new "O" and square-cut rings in, and going to try it. The filters that are in the inlet and outlet ports are really cruddy looking, would like to replace, but with what?

Anyway, if my rebuild doesn't work, I'll be looking for a new one...
 

dutchguy

Member
85
1
8
Location
Lawton, Michigan
I still haven't been able to get mine apart.
Mine was not easy. One thing that I noticed, when "rapping" the valve body, I was rapping the end with the bore that the snap ring fits into on my workbench. After a lot of "firm" knocks, I noticed that either me or someone else had deformed the end of the valve by pounding that end. The bore that the guts slide into was getting really beat up. Then, after taking the spray nozzle end out, I put a rag over the snap ring end, a pipe plug in the "in" port, my thumb over the spray opening, and compressed air into the "out" port, and it blew the cap, ring etc out. I would highly recommend slight doses of air, I was able to contain everything with the rag. Might even be able to do it with the nozzle in place, as the hole is very tiny. I wonder how many of these have been wrecked by pounding the end, it's only cast aluminum.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
I've been pounding it on a block of wood so I don't think I've harmed the body, but I'll try that! Thanks.

EDIT: tried it, still no dice! I think somebody used some kind of super-epoxy on the ass end of this nozzle (it's off my parts truck, it probably doesn't even leak I just thought I'd try to refurb it before installing it).
 
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91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
Me too, one of my three 1970 trucks is leaking. I had not been driving it for a long time. Fired it up for a potential customer and drip, drip, drip... Now I need to fix it....
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
...and if you cannot get it apart, as I could not, parts to plug are available at Lowes. You need to bring all your ends in there for matching up, but between plumbing and hardware, you can get all the plugs and bolts to cap it off. Best price I've gotten was about $96 plus shipping, and we don't really need them down here in Ga.
 

dutchguy

Member
85
1
8
Location
Lawton, Michigan
Add me to the list I have to do this same repair. Any got photos of the guts?
These pics were posted on an older thread. What I see different in these than mine is there must still be a piece inside the body......and my spray nozzle only had a small ball and a small spring, instead of the three pieces on the penny in the pic. I hope the darn thing works and doesn't leak when I'm done!
 

Attachments

olly hondro

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
881
521
93
Location
tucson AZ
I use airbrake line.

I did find that standard brass ferrules didnt work correctly as they did not allow for the engagement of the nut to fitting. I carefully, with a dremel tool, cut off the back part of the ferrule and that worked.
 
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